OMC Remote Control Neutral Lock-out

[SusieQ 21]

I have an original ‘96 OMC remote control for a ‘96 Evinrude 150. V6. I’m unable to rev motor in neutral. All other remote control functions work as intended. I have performed link & synch (for other reasons) and cable adjustments per manual. Not familiar with outboard remote controls. There is a button (switch?) on the lower portion of the control plate. It doesn’t seem to do anything. Is that the neutral lock-out? If so, it may be broken. Thanks for any input offered.

 

[Chris1956]

Normally you push the button on the pivot of the control, and push the throttle forward for throttle only operation.

Your 1996 motor could have quickstart, which increases the RPM of the motor, when it is cold. With Quickstart, one hardly ever needs to push that throttle only button.

 

[SusieQ 21]

Chris, thank you for your reply.

 

[Scott Danforth]

some OMC controls had a button, others, you grabbed the handle by the base and pull outward about 1/4"

 

[SusieQ 21]

Thanks, Scott. So I have learned. Mine is the "push-in" button type. Reassembled and (almost) installed control yesterday. Ran out of time to complete. I marked the control cables for positioning, but markings rubbed off during install. Need to determine correct positions of cable attachments onto which arm. That’ll have to wait until tomorrow. Going (pier) fishing today. Need a break! Ha. Thanks again.

 

[Chris1956]

Susie, Johnnyrude outboards differ from Mercs in that they push the throttle open, whereas Mercs push the throttle closed.

Both brands pull the shift cable forward for forward and push the cable for reverse.

Some controls have 4 cable connections, as they are universal fit. You need to pick the ones made for your motor. I would think that an OMC controller would only have 2 connections.

So the connection that makes the cable motor's end short when control is in neutral, is the throttle cable. Alternatively, when you move the throttle handle forward, the shift cable moves first.

 

[SusieQ 21]

Susie, Johnnyrude outboards differ from Mercs in that they push the throttle open, whereas Mercs push the throttle closed.

Both brands pull the shift cable forward for forward and push the cable for reverse.

Some controls have 4 cable connections, as they are universal fit. You need to pick the ones made for your motor. I would think that an OMC controller would only have 2 connections.

So the connection that makes the cable motor's end short when control is in neutral, is the throttle cable. Alternatively, when you move the throttle handle forward, the shift cable moves first.

Chris, thanks for your reply. Your correct; my Evinrude employs two cables. I connected cables and reinstalled Control unit earlier today, PRIOR TO reading your message. Throttle operation worked as intended, gear selector did not. Not certain if I installed the gear (shift) cable incorrectly, or
I may have incorrectly reassembled internal parts of the control.
I believe reassembly is correct, EXCEPT, embarrassingly, I lost one of the two ball bearings during assembly. One ball (neutral detent) inserts into spindle portion of the driveshaft plate. I can’t tell from the parts diagram where the second bearing goes. Since the cost of a BRM Control replacement is $250-$300 or so, the lost bearing may equate to a $300 dollar part. That said, the control now operates more smoothly, but without shifting. So, not certain if loss of gear selection resulted from missing bearing or incorrect placement of shift cable, or both. I’ll check shift cable connection tomorrow….AND continue hunt for missing bearing.
FYI, I’m departing from the boat location on Saturday (for the summer), so no time to order the bearing, but wanted to leave with some sense of closure. So, thought I may as well reinstall the control for testing. Seems I’ve opened the proverbial "can of worms." Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks again.

 

[SusieQ 21]

AS a follow-up, my wife miracously found the lost ball bearing. I inserted into what I believe to be the correct position (shift lever cam and driveshaft/plate support). After reassembling the control 3 times, I can’t get the shift lever to function properly. The throttle parts work nicely, but the shift lever becomes locked. The problem seems to be the alignment of the shift lever into the shift lever cam and the driveshaft/plate support. It seems the placement of the (3) roller bearings that fit into/between the parts above is critical to allow free rotation and / or engagement of the shift lever, dependent upon desired control function. Oddly, the indentations in the shift lever and the driveshaft/plate support don’t align. Does anyone know the correct positioning of the roller bearings and shift lever cam/shift lever/driveshaft/plate support? The parts diagram isn’t specific about roller bearing placement. Incidentally, I’ve searched for a "how-to" video, but found nothing that matches my OMC concealed (flush) side mount control. Any direction would be appreciated.

 

[SusieQ 21]

Final comment: it’s been commented on this site, and others, that members often fail to state the results of their attempts with repair issues; thereby failing to extend their findings, which may be helpful to others. That said, I offer the following.

I disassembled / reassembled control unit 4 more times. I finally discovered (what I believe to be) the correct alignment of he (3) roller bearings in the shift lever cam / shift lever and driveshaft plate support. After reassembling all parts, I bench tested the operation of the control, SUCCESSFULLY rotating the full range of the spindle 4X with shift and throttle arms operating in proper sequence…..as well as, proper shift disengagement for neutral warm-up operation. I then took the assembled control to the boat for installation. I successfully tested operation again before installation. I then attached the shift and throttle cables before installing the control to the boat. Recall, the control unit is a concealed (flush) mount, which requires cable attachments prior to installation. I decided to make one final test before final installation. Although the throttle arm rotated properly, the shift lever was no longer operating. Btw, the cables were moving freely, and should have no influence on the operation of the shift lever…..other than potential hard operation….which there is none. Hoping for a miracle, and regardless of seeming failure, I installed the unit. Not surprisingly, there was still no shift control, although throttle continued to function well. At this point, I can’t imagine how the roller bearings could be installed in other way that what I did for proper function. Improper positioning will not permit the parts to go (slide) together. That said, it’s clear shift engagement is clearly a function of the positioning of the roller bearings in the shift lever cam and contiguous parts. So, I’m at a dead-end as to the proper completion of the repair. I give!

Not certain if the most recent lack of response from members is due to disinterest of the subject or lack of knowledge. I hoped I could solicit the help of someone with the knowledge of how to properly diagnose and repair my control unit. That said, thanks to those who offered what they could.

Btw, I also posted this message on ME.