OMC Cobra tilt/trim help…

[ryanp1227]

Ive searched and have found every answer I have tried, still stumped. 1986 Sport-Craft with a 4.3l Cobra I/O. Tilt/trim stopped working. Replaced all three solenoids (figure Id change the third just in case) and no change. Replaced the pump with brand new one, no change. Replaced connectors for harness from motor to main, no change. Replaced old style glass 20amp fuse with a new 20amp blade style unit, intermittant clicking only in the up position. Replaced harness from solenoids to main, now we have clicking both up and down with no interruption. Replaced glass 50amp fuse with a new one, same same…

Need some ideas friends. Could the 50amp main fuse holder be bad all of the sudden? Should I replace with a 50amp breaker and cross my fingers? What else am I missing?! Pump pic attached for reference.

Edit to add that I am using an Optima blue top, fully charged and checked. Engine starts no problem.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Start with cleaning the battery cables and connections.

 

[ryanp1227]

Start with cleaning the battery cables and connections.

Already been done as well. All battery terminal ends are brand new

 

[Scott Danforth]

Already been done as well. All battery terminal ends are brand new

And the connection at the starter where the trim pump is wired?

 

[ryanp1227]

And the connection at the starter where the trim pump is wired?

The starter is brand new, just replaced last week, so that connection is good. I replaced the terminal end for the main battery line going to it because it was all rusty and corroded. I did not notice issues with any of the other connections

 

[ryanp1227]

I mean, aside from the line with the 50amp fuse, thats pretty much the entire system accounted for.

 

[Lou C]

Ah, how about the trim switch on the remote control?
On the OMC controls, sometimes one of the wires breaks or grounds out inside the handle…

 

[ryanp1227]

K

Ah, how about the trim switch on the remote control?
On the OMC controls, sometimes one of the wires breaks or grounds out inside the handle…

Took the little plastic insert cover off and all looked well. If there was a problem at the helm, wouldnt I get no clicks on whichever side was shorted/disconnected?

 

[ryanp1227]

Just did another bench test, just in case, and the motor works when jumped.

 

[ryanp1227]

Simple answer is it has to be that main line between the starter and solenoids, right?

If it clicks both up and down, the switch and solenoids work, and necessarily the 20amp fuse also must be in good shape.

The motor itself can be jumped, so that is not the problem.

That leaves the power cable from starter 50amp fuse, cable from fuse to solenoid, main power jumper cable between solenoids, the blue and green wires going from the solenoids to the motor, and the black wire that is grounded on the plate the solenoids are mounted to. It has to be one of these things right?

 

[ryanp1227]

Figured it out. The issue was this connector, from solenoids to motor. Thanks for all the help and suggestions!

 

[Lou C]

Great congrats on finding it & reporting back because it helps all of us with old OMCs that shops don’t want to work on!

 

[ryanp1227]

No problem. The wires going into the seat from the solenoid side look like they can come unseated easily if you are working back there and tug on it. Probably one of the things that happened to me, aside from the pump motor going bad