OMC 5.0 Part ID?

[isaacvz]

It's a Bayliner Capri 18 foot. I got it for 1,200 and it starts right up and has been well taken care of - but I can still back out.
Pictures attached, will try to get better ones but these are from owner. Broke off during winterization, part of the pump system?

 

[vasy]

Run...
looks like power steering cooler... $150 for new aftermarket... probably cant find oem..

Seakamp OMC Marine 985840 Power Steering P/S Cooler Boat | eBay

New Seakamp oil cooler for OMC Power Steering (P/S). Describe the nature of the problem and its urgency (include pictures if possible). This item has a 1 Year warranty covering any manufacturer defects.

www.ebay.com

 

[Lou C]

Agreed I'd pass on this boat, because if they didn't bother to drain the raw water intake hose for winterizing, what else did they not bother to do? You could have a cracked block and manifolds!
All that needs to be done to keep these coolers from freezing:
Put drive down, then disconnect raw water intake hose at 'stat housing.
Hold down in the bilge to drain, then hold it up, fill with -100 marine AF till it runs out the water intakes on the outdrive. There is an drain plug but it's hell to get at on most boats. I've done it both ways and lowering the drive, drain down the hose, and filling with AF works. Mine never froze in temps as low as zero.

 

[isaacvz]

Agreed I'd pass on this boat, because if they didn't bother to drain the raw water intake hose for winterizing, what else did they not bother to do? You could have a cracked block and manifolds!
All that needs to be done to keep these coolers from freezing:
Put drive down, then disconnect raw water intake hose at 'stat housing.
Hold down in the bilge to drain, then hold it up, fill with -100 marine AF till it runs out the water intakes on the outdrive. There is an drain plug but it's hell to get at on most boats. I've done it both ways and lowering the drive, drain down the hose, and filling with AF works. Mine never froze in temps as low as zero.

Thanks, I guess I should have mentioned that it broke not during the winter, but as it was being put away for winter which I believe he paid someone to do. He started it up yesterday right away, but I guess that may have been detrimental as well…

 

[isaacvz]

Run...
looks like power steering cooler... $150 for new aftermarket... probably cant find oem..

Seakamp OMC Marine 985840 Power Steering P/S Cooler Boat | eBay

New Seakamp oil cooler for OMC Power Steering (P/S). Describe the nature of the problem and its urgency (include pictures if possible). This item has a 1 Year warranty covering any manufacturer defects.

www.ebay.com

Run as in hard to replace?

 

[vasy]

Run as in hard to replace?

You never mentioned what year the boat is.
Unless it is 1995+, parts and service are almost impossible to find.
If you like wrenching instead of boating, get it.

 

[isaacvz]

You never mentioned what year the boat is.
Unless it is 1995+, parts and service are almost impossible to find.
If you like wrenching instead of boating, get it.

My bad, I did forget to in original post. Edited. It’s an 1988.

 

[Lou C]

The 94 and up Cobras are the same as a Volvo Penta SX of the same year. For the older ones, yes some parts are hard to find. I've been able to keep mine going but I have a lot of spares. But old Bayliner, OMC Cobra power, really just save your money. Keep saving till you can get something much newer. As in, less than 10 years old. A 1988 is 33 years old way past its expiration date. Seriously I'd never buy another old boat. Been there done that and once was enough for me. Wood rot, NLA parts, no one wants to work on it, forget it!

 

[isaacvz]

The 94 and up Cobras are the same as a Volvo Penta SX of the same year. For the older ones, yes some parts are hard to find. I've been able to keep mine going but I have a lot of spares. But old Bayliner, OMC Cobra power, really just save your money. Keep saving till you can get something much newer. As in, less than 10 years old. A 1988 is 33 years old way past its expiration date. Seriously I'd never buy another old boat. Been there done that and once was enough for me. Wood rot, NLA parts, no one wants to work on it, forget it!

Sounds good. I’m in Minnesota, and thankfully anything that floats during the summer is worth more than it should be, so I think I’ll replace this part, take it out with the current owner to make sure everything is kosher, then sell it after a weekend or two. I have the time and the money isn’t the end of the world, so just taking this as a learning experience.

 

[Lou C]

Well:
call around and see if there are still any shops who know how to set up an OMC Cobra shift cable, this is one of the main issues with them. I can do it, I have the special tools and the knowledge, but younger guys working, may not.
also, if you take the boat out make sure there is no water leaking from anywhere on the engine, exhaust system etc. Also check for water in the motor oil
If the shift cable is good and in proper adjustment, it should shift very easily into and out of gear. Mine shifts with 2 fingers. If it is stiff, or jumps out of gear you are going to have problems, and expensive ones.

 

[vasy]

My bad, I did forget to in original post. Edited. It’s an 1988.

Save the money, use it to rent something nice for a few weekends.
Buy 1996+

 

[isaacvz]

Replaced the part, took it out yesterday and it was great until halfway through the day it wouldn’t go over 25mph. Still need to check the basics, but also might leave it alone.

Selling it soon, not losing any money, and I learned quite a bit. No harm no foul.

 

[isaacvz]

Ha scratch that, the replacement cup holders I put in wore out the alternator belt!
Fun stuff. Again, I’m learning.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Replaced the part, took it out yesterday and it was great until halfway through the day it wouldn’t go over 25mph. Still need to check the basics, but also might leave it alone.

Selling it soon, not losing any money, and I learned quite a bit. No harm no foul.

you need to go thru all the basics before even using the boat. this is all the maintenance that the prior owner didnt do. not to mention your registration, etc. boats loose money daily.

 

[isaacvz]

you need to go thru all the basics before even using the boat. this is all the maintenance that the prior owner didnt do. not to mention your registration, etc. boats loose money daily.

Read my latest post. I caused it. This boat has been well taken care of considering it’s old as dirt. Forget the money, I’m not worried about that.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Read my latest post. I caused it. This boat has been well taken care of considering it’s old as dirt. Forget the money, I’m not worried about that.

so you pulled the drive, verified the gimbal bearing, checked the alignment, inspected the U-joints, changed the fluids, went thru the fuel system, ignition and shift systems as well as all the trailer maintenance?

 

[PITBoat]

...
All that needs to be done to keep these coolers from freezing:
Put drive down, then disconnect raw water intake hose at 'stat housing.
Hold down in the bilge to drain, then hold it up, fill with -100 marine AF till it runs out the water intakes on the outdrive. There is an drain plug but it's hell to get at on most boats. I've done it both ways and lowering the drive, drain down the hose, and filling with AF works. Mine never froze in temps as low as zero.

I may try it that way next time. I always take out the screw, and yeah you can only get at it with one hand, blind. I thought of trying a capped Schrader valve (with no core) instead of the screw, if the threads are right. The cap would be easier to take off. Might protrude in there some and not let all of the water out though. The brass screw threads are fine, and I'm never certain I'm not cross-threading it when I put it back in since it just barely gets started before it gets too stiff to turn with the fingers only.

PO forgot to do that one year and had to get it replaced. They didn't finish the job right though apparently, because the PS fluid was milky. That didn't break the sale for me since I knew nothing boat and was drinking from a fire hose as he shared a bunch of knowledge with me (like that, torn up exhaust bellows, etc., etc.). I just siphoned out the milky stuff and replaced with new. Did that several times, and it's fine now. Unless there's a failure waiting to happen on account of that.

 

[Lou C]

It works well I have not removed that drain plug in years. Now if you pull the drive for the winter, that will naturally drain because as soon as you pull the drive away from the transom mount it drains. What I did with mine is to drill a small hole in the plastic water fitting in the pivot housing, right where the drain plug is on the left side. So if that hose and cooler were full of water and you don't want to use antifreeze, with the drive down you pull that drain plug and just rod out the hole with a pick, it all drains then even if you don't remove the drive.

 

[PITBoat]

That's good to know. My plastic fitting had a hole in it already, but it was oriented wrong, or I thought it was. 90 off from how it apparently should have been. I changed the orientation, but can't swear to what I changed it to. I need to take more pics next time the drive's off.