"Old Timers Formula"

bonz_d

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Apr 22, 2008
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Been using this on a number of projects as of late and over-all I'm very pleased with the results I've gotten. Works very well on tin boats especially in areas where there is access to good air flow.

Observation from application on last 2 projects.

On the 1st one the plywood that I had used was some leftover material that has been sitting in the garage for about 4 years. It was a full sheet of 5/8" ABX. When I started to apply the formula the wood was very dry from sitting and I could actually see the wood soaking up the liquid. I ended up using quit a bit of this formula to get it saturated.

On this last one I had a pcs of new bought 3/4" ACX for a transom board. After cutting and gluing I started to apply the formula as before and this material didn't react the same way and I used much less of the formula. I am assuming it was because it was new wood and hadn't had the time to lose it's moisture content.

It still finished out nicely but just thought I'd pass along my observation and thoughts that this will really work very well on seasoned wood. I'll see what happens as I've got 4 sheets right now seasoning in the garage for another project.
 

gm280

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Jun 26, 2011
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Been using this on a number of projects as of late and over-all I'm very pleased with the results I've gotten. Works very well on tin boats especially in areas where there is access to good air flow.

Observation from application on last 2 projects.

On the 1st one the plywood that I had used was some leftover material that has been sitting in the garage for about 4 years. It was a full sheet of 5/8" ABX. When I started to apply the formula the wood was very dry from sitting and I could actually see the wood soaking up the liquid. I ended up using quit a bit of this formula to get it saturated.

On this last one I had a pcs of new bought 3/4" ACX for a transom board. After cutting and gluing I started to apply the formula as before and this material didn't react the same way and I used much less of the formula. I am assuming it was because it was new wood and hadn't had the time to lose it's moisture content.

It still finished out nicely but just thought I'd pass along my observation and thoughts that this will really work very well on seasoned wood. I'll see what happens as I've got 4 sheets right now seasoning in the garage for another project.

Okay for the dense folks reading...okay for me! :facepalm: What is the Old timer's Formula? Is that the actual name of it, or something else? And what is in it? :noidea:
 

bonz_d

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Sorry gm, thought you'd be familiar with WOG "Old Timers Formula" from here in the forum. It's used for sealing wood. Basically it's 1 part spar, 1 part boiled linseed oil and 2 parts mineral spirits. Don't know that I would use this on a glass boat where everything is going to be sealed up but it's working very well in the applications I've tried it on in tin boats. Like decking ply, transom boards, wood seats, dash boards.
 

Corjen1

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Aug 24, 2013
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I also thought you were talking about WoGs wood sealant. Ive been using that exclusively on both my boat and customers stuff. Mostly in the seat base, side panel wood backer areas. No complaints and it sheds water like a ducks hind end..... I also have a bit of an experiment going on with it, made a ramp out of left over plywood for our dachshund to get into the small water trough pool this spring.. soaked it with the formula and it has sat outside since May, 24/7....no wood warping, and water still beads on it.
 
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bonz_d

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I also have a bit of an experiment going on with it, made a ramp out of left over plywood for our dachshund to get into the small water trough pool this spring.. soaked it with the formula and it has sat outside since May, 24/7....no wood warping, and water still beads on it.

You'll have to update us on this from time to time as I am certainly curious.
 

gm280

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:facepalm: Okay bonz_d I did know that but didn't connect it with WOG's concoction... I guess old age does start early... :noidea: :bolt:
 

Watermann

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Don't forget the last step of the formula is to use just the spar for the final coats and I will add paying close attention to coating the edges. Nothing you treat the outside of plywood with will penetrate beyond the first waterproof glue layer in the ply. That's why the edges are so important, water can move laterally into the plys if not sealed well.
 

Corjen1

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Here is 4 months in..like I said completely exposed, 24/7....







As you can see, its starting to dry up some...but if i hit it again with the formula..I bet no issues. Going to just let it be though.
 

bonz_d

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I was mistaken earlier. That sheet of plywood I mentioned had been in the garage for 6 years! That stuff really soaked it up and lots of it. Also because of it's size I did one side and all the edges, let it dry overnight then did the other side and all the edges again. After it cured a couple days I then put 3 coats of spar on each side while also doing the edges with each coat.

So yes Watermann extra attention had been paid to the edges and as I have learned the edges are the weak point in plywood.

gm, your excuse has been found acceptable!

Corjen, nice experiment!
 
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