Ok, it does not work very well!

[Boomyal]

Am determined to have a virgin white bilge in my floor resto. I am using epoxy resin, so I can't use gel coat. I was hoping that using White pigment would do the job. So far, after one layer of 10 oz cloth, applied with pigmented resin, plus one additional coat of thickened, pigmented resin (rolled on), I can still see all of the various shades etc from the original polyester bilge floor.<br /><br />Previously, the bilge had been painted black but the paint was peeling off prior to the reconstruction job.<br /><br />Any ideas out there to make my bilge WHITE. I can still do more coats of whatever it takes but I just don't think that paint is what will work.

 

[G DANE]

Re: Ok, it does not work very well!

I usually paint with white two component epoxy primer. Over here its made by a company named HEMPEL, but I know International has it too. Its ment for priming bottom of boat before applying antifouling paint, at permanent mooring. Its scratch proof, water proof and easy to use. Smells bad as it cures though. Not the cheapest stuff, here its around 20$ for a 1/4 g, but it covers real good.

 

[petrolhead]

Re: Ok, it does not work very well!

I agree, 2 pack epoxy paint is the way to go, I painted my whole hull with it and it's very tough stuff, and being epoxy it's totally compatible with the resin.<br />Check out non-marine paint suppliers as this stuff is used for other heavy duty applications, like painting truck beds, and is likely to be cheaper without the word "boat" on the tin, I know mine was a LOT cheaper!

 

[18rabbit]

Re: Ok, it does not work very well!

2-part epoxy bilge paint. Supposed to be specifically formulated to resist hydrocarbons, water penetration in the bilge. Not cheap. Not a lot of colors to choose from, black and/or gray seem to always be available. You could probably find white. Don’t count on finding pink or yellow. <br /><br />Edit: just looked in the Interlux product guide. “BilgeKote” comes in semi-gloss, gray or white. It does not appear to be two-part epoxy. It’s under [paint finishes] here:<br /><br /> http://www.yachtpaint.com/usa/ <br /><br />There are other manf of bilge paints/coatings as well. You should web surf.

 

[Boomyal]

Re: Ok, it does not work very well!

Originally posted by 18rabbit:<br /> 2-part epoxy bilge paint. Supposed to be specifically formulated to resist hydrocarbons, water penetration in the bilge. Not cheap. Not a lot of colors to choose from, black and/or gray seem to always be available. You could probably find white. Don’t count on finding pink or yellow. <br /><br />Edit: just looked in the Interlux product guide. “BilgeKote” comes in semi-gloss, gray or white. It does not appear to be two-part epoxy. It’s under [paint finishes] here:<br /><br /> http://www.yachtpaint.com/usa/ <br /><br />There are other manf of bilge paints/coatings as well. You should web surf.

That's what I just bought, 18R. Interlux Brightsides Polyurethane, 29.95 a quart. The paint shop said it was tougher than nails. I inquired about two part paint but they only had it in gallons, for large area jobs like concrete floors. I did see some two part quarts at a West Marine shop. It was like $85.00 a quart. Gulp

 

[BillP]

Re: Ok, it does not work very well!

It works, you just didn't use enough pigment.

 

[Boomyal]

Re: Ok, it does not work very well!

Originally posted by BillP:<br /> It works, you just didn't use enough pigment.

Grrrrr! Can't you use too much pigment? I was told 1 0z to a quart of epoxy. When you are mixing a smaller batch you kinda have to guess at the amount.

 

[BillP]

Re: Ok, it does not work very well!

I'm sure you can mix too much pigment (maybe 50%) but on a cosmetic coating it isn't an issue...especially with epoxy. It is NORMAL procedure in the fiberglass trade to add pigment until opague on the first coat. That's how the industry has done it for the last 40 yrs and nobody has problems. Next time seal it with epoxy and use paint for the color.

 

[Luna Sea]

Re: Ok, it does not work very well!

I used that white pigment stuff on a deck job, once, a year later it had turned all yellow and was cracking in places. Came to find out there's no UV protectant in there. So much for shortcuts.... <br /><br />I think you should protect your hard work with a little paint............

 

[TwoBallScrewBall]

Re: Ok, it does not work very well!

Luna, that's good advice, but there's (hopefully!)no UV in the bilge....

 

[crab bait]

Re: Ok, it does not work very well!

that pigment junk is ok,, but it's not paint or gel coat an can't seem to use euff to really work.. an if'n you use to much,, it'll mess up the epoxy cure an turn soft an gummy.. <br /><br />i know from the 'hard way'..<br /><br />it's a pigment to make it look better it the paint scratches an stuff or to add to subsequent coats as per sanding 'hi's & lo's'..<br /><br />brite side paint right on sanded an washed epoxy will last-a-lifetime.. <br /><br />no primer needed,, no primer wanted.. ( read the can )..

 

[Boomyal]

Re: Ok, it does not work very well!

Originally posted by crab bait:<br /> that pigment junk is ok,, but it's not paint or gel coat an can't seem to use euff to really work.. an if'n you use to much,, it'll mess up the epoxy cure an turn soft an gummy.. <br /><br />i know from the 'hard way'..<br /><br />it's a pigment to make it look better it the paint scratches an stuff or to add to subsequent coats as per sanding 'hi's & lo's'..<br /><br />brite side paint right on sanded an washed epoxy will last-a-lifetime.. <br /><br />no primer needed,, no primer wanted.. ( read the can )..

OK, uncle, I give! Brightsides it is. I did do one more coat of pigmented resin after buying the paint, with the same results. The positive side is that I will not only spray the bilge, I will mask and spray everything behind the rear seat panel that is located about mid bilge, floor, walls, inside of transom and underside of back deck. Now when I need to look back there, I will not need a light.