Oil Injection Failure

truewind

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Aug 17, 2013
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On posts here and there regarding this topic, it's been stated that Mercury customer service will help nondealer-nonmechanic call-in customers find parts/#s, sell the parts, and even send instructions on how to do the job. Well, no more. I called and was told they no longer help out for "liability" reasons due to customers botching repairs and blaming Mercury. There is a Quicksilver kit, available on ebay and elsewhere, that has a shaft, two screws, and an O-ring. That's four parts. Mercury customer service told me the job took 6-8 parts, but would not tell my anything else, and said I should contact a local dealer to help me out and order parts. I called a local dealer-mechanic, and they had no idea what to do and could not find any parts for this job. I asked about service bulletins and even pointed out numbers 94-6, 96-10, and even 97-18 ?Oil Injection Gear Failures - 135 thru 200 - 2.0L, 2.4L, & 2.5L V6? which should deal directly with this problem, but they had no clue. Does anyone have a copy of 97-18 you can post?

Specifically, I have a 98 Sugar Sand Tango with a Mercury 175XR2 Sport Jet with a nonworking oiling system and loud warning beeps. I performed all the tests in the manual and it seems I have the plastic gear failure; no oil comes out of the line from the oil injection pump to the fuel pump when the engine is running. So I figure the plastic "Gear-driven" is stripped. I have not removed the oil assembly yet, but do I have to? What is wrong with leaving it in and premixing? Other posts have said the plastic bits will do nothing to the metal engine and no one has described a noninvasive method to get them out.

Also, the Oil Block Off Kit has a long shaft that appears to take the place of the gear, implying that I can take the gear out, but I was under the impression that the gear had to be left in. If the original gear can be left in, why the need for a replacement shaft in the kit. Does the original gear easily lift out of the hole?

Another thing, one of the tests I did was for a defective motion sensor in the oil injection pump. The service manual said that output voltage should peak at 5V
+ or - 1V and then drop to less than 1.0 volt during every 2 revolutions of the engine. When I did this, it only went from 5V to 4V. The manual said "should" not "must," so am I OK there? Or does it really matter since my plastic gear appears to be stripped and I might take out the motion sensor anyway?

Thank you very much. Any help is appreciated.
 

Faztbullet

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Mar 2, 2008
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15,938
Just pull pump,shaft and plastic bearing and stab in the block off kit. Unhook the purple wire off oil module and cap off pressure line to tank and go riding..You will now mix 50:1 and go with a synthetic oil to reduce smoke.

it's been stated that Mercury customer service will help nondealer-nonmechanic call-in customers find parts/#s, sell the parts, and even send instructions on how to do the job. Well, no more. I called and was told they no longer help out for "liability" reasons due to customers botching repairs and blaming Mercury
Yep..The day of "good sam" is out the door due to no "thank you's" from consumers that they did help and bitching by aholes that cant hold a screwdriver correctly.
 
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Texasmark

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Dec 20, 2005
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I don't know what the 175 requires, but the function is to pump oil into the fuel stream. Mine had a gravity feed system with the tank in the engine under the cowl (2002 90 triple) An oil hose went to the pump whose output was Y'd into the fuel line from the tank about 6'"after the fuel line entered the engine.

The pump was operated by a gear that meshed with a gear on the crankshaft. I pulled my fuel pump out by removing 2 or 3 mounting screws and pulled the gear and it's mounting shaft out of the pump, checking for anything loose that might cause a problem later, finding nothing. I replaced the pump minus the shaft and it's gear. I left about 2 quarts in a 3 quart oil tank since that is what was in the tank at the time and I didn't feel like diddling with the low oil alarm.

Being a gear pump, there is little to no oil bypassing it if it's not turning so there was nothing else to do.

I was raised with premix and got used to onboard variable ratio (50 to 80:1 depending on rpm) oiler so I put a sign adjacent to the fuel filler to add a quart of oil to every 6 gallons of gas......along with my regular dose of Sea Foam...so I wouldn't forget.
 
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truewind

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Aug 17, 2013
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The link didn't work, but if you search for this, you'll find it -- [h=1]43-14563 - Driven Gear[/h]
 

racerone

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Dec 28, 2013
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?????-----The gear inside the motor around the crank is the plastic one.-----The driven gear that is installed from the outside has always been metal !
 

truewind

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Aug 17, 2013
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Hold on a second. I've only tested, not torn into it yet. Is the drive gear that's inside the case, wrapped around the crank the plastic part that fails? I thought the driven gear 43-14563 extending from the crank to the oil pump used to be made of plastic.
 

truewind

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Aug 17, 2013
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Great! I'll get the block off kit and go from there.

Is it true I don't have to worry about the plastic gear deteriorating further inside the engine. It doesn't mess anything up? I don't have to worry about the retaining screw and nut or other metal parts on the drive gear? Is there any way to get broken pieces out without opening the engine?
 

truewind

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Aug 17, 2013
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Also, was the minimal voltage variance when I did the motion sensor test due to a minimally functioning oil pump?
 

Faztbullet

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Is it true I don't have to worry about the plastic gear deteriorating further inside the engine.
Yep...
It doesn't mess anything up?
That's correct...
I don't have to worry about the retaining screw and nut or other metal parts on the drive gear?
No worrys...
Is there any way to get broken pieces out without opening the engine?
Nope..
Have you tested the oil pump output???? You may only have a bad oil module(common problem) if your getting erratic/false alarms
 

sam am I

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Jun 26, 2013
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The service manual said that output voltage should peak at 5V
+ or - 1V and then drop to less than 1.0 volt during every 2 revolutions of the engine. When I did this, it only went from 5V to 4V. The manual said "should" not "must," so am I OK there?

No, the output is suppose to drop to or below the 1V at a spot for every other rotation in order for the alarm module to not set off the alarm (crank it slow by hand with ignition on, you should see this happen at specific spot in the rotation[the magnet aligned w hall effect sensor])..........Do what FB suggest before you condemn the oilier system, it sounds like you should be getting false alarms due to this.
 
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truewind

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Aug 17, 2013
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Thank you for the advice. I checked the oil pump output with the engine running and it was not pumping out any oil. Does this along with the motion sensor not dropping below 1V, mean the motion sensor and the plastic gear are both broken?
 

sam am I

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Jun 26, 2013
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I'd be leaning that way bout now, yes.......Pull pump off and have a peek, it goes on and comes off the motor really easy. With pump off, you can turn the motor by hand and should be able to see the plastic coupler turning.

Going further.......

The coupler just slides out (might come out the drive gear attached, no biggie), check the plastic coupler, it is keyed on front side to drive the oil pump and back side for the drive gear.

Then the metal drive gear should slide right out. Might grad it with a pair of hemostats or something. With a flash light and a good eye, I'd think ya can look down the hole and see/inspect the plastic gear..........Never thought to try however when I've had mine opened up, so not sure on this one.
 
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