Oil injection delete

[wdhm04]

Looking to see if anyone has a diagram of what hoses to disconnect boat boat and previous owner started to delete and got sick and I dont know what lines and ports need to be blocked off

 

[Chris1956]

What year and HP is motor?

 

[wdhm04]

What year and HP is motor?

1989 100 hp 2+2 mercury

 

[wdhm04]

What year and HP is motor?

1989 mercury 100 hp 2+2

 

[Texasmark]

I have a 2002 115 2 stroker and had the same year 90 2 stroker. On both engines all I did was to unscrew 3 (as I recall) screws on the oil pump,( in close proximity to the inlet fuel hose inside the engine cowling), temporarily disconnecting one short hose (which I reinstalled when finished), pulled the oil pump out far enough to get to the gear drive and pulled it out (with its attached shaft) of the pump. I put what I said I undid back where it was and that was it. Left the oil in the tank to keep the low oil alarm from screeching and forgot about it.

If you have disconnected hoses you have a couple of choices:
If one drains the oil tank, drain it and find the blue/white striped wires (on my 2002 engines) coming from the oil tank to the wiring harness and disconnect them. Then you can remove the tank if you choose. With that done, once you have the gear out and the oil pump reinstalled, go to the outlet tube that Ys into the fuel iinlet (on my engines) and clamp it off to keep gas from backing up in that tube and maybe draining into the engine proper.

Then, as a safety measure, adjacent to the fuel fill point on your boat, write a warning that every 6 gallons of fuel requires a pint of TW-3 (Two Stroke, Watercraft, 3rd iteration of oil formula) oil.

 

[wdhm04]

I have a 2002 115 2 stroker and had the same year 90 2 stroker. On both engines all I did was to unscrew 3 (as I recall) screws on the oil pump,( in close proximity to the inlet fuel hose inside the engine cowling), temporarily disconnecting one short hose (which I reinstalled when finished), pulled the oil pump out far enough to get to the gear drive and pulled it out (with its attached shaft) of the pump. I put what I said I undid back where it was and that was it. Left the oil in the tank to keep the low oil alarm from screeching and forgot about it.

If you have disconnected hoses you have a couple of choices:
If one drains the oil tank, drain it and find the blue/white striped wires (on my 2002 engines) coming from the oil tank to the wiring harness and disconnect them. Then you can remove the tank if you choose. With that done, once you have the gear out and the oil pump reinstalled, go to the outlet tube that Ys into the fuel iinlet (on my engines) and clamp it off to keep gas from backing up in that tube and maybe draining into the engine proper.

Then, as a safety measure, adjacent to the fuel fill point on your boat, write a warning that every 6 gallons of fuel requires a pint of TW-3 (Two Stroke, Watercraft, 3rd iteration of oil formula) oil.

Thank you the t you are talking about is that right behind where tank plug in at front of motor

 

[flyingscott]

I would leave it. Those motors have excellent injection systems.

 

[Texasmark]

I would leave it. Those motors have excellent injection systems.

I boat infrequently. As a result my first start is problematic, on 2 engines, one of which is driving the boat in my Avatar, kissing 50 with a 90 HP engine on a 17+' aluminum bass boat........so obviously there isn't anything wrong with the engine.

With today's squeeze bulbs, unlike the old OEM diamond shaped bulbs, you can't tell when the bulb is full and as a result the fuel that is supposed to be in the carbs isn't there. So you squeeze and crank etc. etc. and in the process, the crankshaft is turning while cranking and dumping excess oil into the fuel line causing an overly oil mixture. Once the engine starts, finally, you have to jump in the water to be able to breathe (so to speak) and it takes awhile for the engine to smooth out and clean up the plugs. An electric pump solves this problem handily with 50:1 pre-mix gas/ethanol.

 

[Chris1956]

Gee, if you cannot feel the primer bulb (regardless of shape) get hard, you have other issues, IMO.

Replace it with a primer bulb you can feel get hard.

 

[Texasmark]

Gee, if you cannot feel the primer bulb (regardless of shape) get hard, you have other issues, IMO.

Replace it with a primer bulb you can feel get hard.

No I don't. I cut open one of them and besides the outer shell being resistive, I found a rubber cylinder inside....doing nothing, just taking up space and offering resistance to what I said.

 

[Chris1956]

Gee, Mark, those primer bulbs have two jobs. Pump fuel and get hard to show the carbs are full. Yours doesn't do at least one of those. I would recommend replacement......

 

[Texasmark]

Gee, Mark, those primer bulbs have two jobs. Pump fuel and get hard to show the carbs are full. Yours doesn't do at least one of those. I would recommend replacement......

Well sir that "used to be" the way they worked.....today, after the EPA stuck their nose in the subject its no longer the case. I have been boating since it was about 17, back in the '50's. Have boated all my life. I am not a non educate newbie in the subject.

 

[Chris1956]

Gee, my primer bulbs work just fine, and they are aftermarket. One seems to have a piece of chore-boy inside it. but it still works, just hard to pump.

 

[flyingscott]

Gee, my primer bulbs work just fine, and they are aftermarket. One seems to have a piece of chore-boy inside it. but it still works, just hard to pump.

Don't get involved with Mark. He has Frankensteind that motor, so not worth being involved.