NS5B Gasket kit sourcing.

[DocTide]

Just picked up a used NS5B. Don't know the year, but it leaks fuel a bit. Got a carb repair kit, ordering the manual. Im looking for info on sourcing a gasket kit. Just the gaskets that are up around the carb (assuming they don't come in the carb repair kit?).

Also, the exhaust when placed in a bucket made the water dark, and seemed to have spewed a lot of oil in the water. Is this normal? This is my first 2stroke outboard so Im not sure, but I didn't think they polluted this much. If this is not normal, what are some things I should do to try and remedy this? Drop lower unit, maybe new exhaust gaskets? Any info would be great. Engine runs, just needs the standard TLC is seems. I heard these were bulletproof.

 

[pvanv]

Re: NS5B Gasket kit sourcing.

Individual gaskets as well as sets, are available from any dealer, including several forum members... even me.

369871215M POWER HEAD GASKET SET $50.68
369010052M GASKET, CYLINDER HEAD $20.83
369012150M OIL SEAL $4.67
369012140M GASKET $1.70
369001220M OIL SEAL B $6.41
369032220M O-RING $5.58
369032931M GASKET $1.23
369020110M GASKET $1.91
369610122M GASKET, DRIVE SHAFT HOUSING $5.08

369873221M WATER PUMP REPAIR KIT $46.59
369650211M IMPELLER NS3.5B/NS5B/4-6HP 4STR $17.80
369650220M KEY $1.39
369650110M LINER, WATER PUMP CASE $10.12
369650180M GASKET, WATER PUMP CASE $1.70
369650250M GUIDE PLATE $5.50
369650290M GASKET, PUMP GUIDE PLATE $1.70
369650200M GASKET, WATER PUMP CASE LOWER $2.15
9161E30645M BOLT $2.36 (4 needed)
9401130600M WASHER (10 MULTIPLE) $0.33 (4 needed)

369873210M LOWER UNIT GASKET SET $22.30
332600060M GASKET (10 MULTIPLE) $1.03
369601110M OIL SEAL, PROPELLER SHAFT $8.10
345650150M O-RING $2.77
369650180M GASKET, WATER PUMP CASE $1.70
369650290M GASKET, PUMP GUIDE PLATE $1.70
369602230M OIL SEAL $7.42
369650200M GASKET, WATER PUMP CASE LOWER $2.15
369660211M O-RING A $1.17
332660320M O-RING $1.30

 

[DocTide]

Re: NS5B Gasket kit sourcing.

Does the carb kit come with the carb gaskets? The reason I ask is because the carb is dripping fuel pretty bad from the bottom (bowl?)

Also, give then issue with oil in the water after I run it, do you think there is a leak somewhere? I haven't pulled the LU yet, but just looking for possible reasons.

EDIT: Also, any idea on the year? NS5B 369-188535

 

[pvanv]

Re: NS5B Gasket kit sourcing.

The carb kit comes with all the normally-replaceable parts of the carb itself, including the bowl gasket. If you need a carb base gasket, that's separate. If you have fuel dripping a lot, you are probably flooding. The fuel level is supposed to be below the bowl gasket. Of course, it does slosh around a bit, so a bad gasket will indeed drip.

All 2-smokes are really greasy. Especially if you run too rich an oil mixture. But, it is common for the motors to go without much service, and unburned oil/fuel deposits (sludge) build up in combustion chambers and the exhaust system. A good de-carboning will usually help a lot.

You can call Tohatsu America at 214-420-6440 if you have a nostalgic curiosity about the vintage (which is unimportant for servicing anyway -- and outside of North America, that model is still current). They will need the serial number (188535 is 6 digits, which seems wrong... those serials had 5 digits IIRC). They may be able to locate original sales records for the motor.

 

[DocTide]

Re: NS5B Gasket kit sourcing.

Great, thanks. Going to go back over it today. The 1 in there came from the 369-1 while the stamped portion read [88535] so that is probably the 5 digits you are referring to. Im not really concerned about year. It just seems like I have seen manuals for 2003+ and lower. Is there a real difference?

Also looks like I got the parts catalog and not the service manual. Guess I have to search that guy too.

 

[pvanv]

Re: NS5B Gasket kit sourcing.

No, there isn't any difference. A 5B is a 5B. But they have not been sold in North America for many years, because they don't pass EPA emissions certification. They are reliable, noisy, smoky, clunky, 2-strokes. Elvin would say that they are "stone hammer technology". Virtually indestructible if fed clean 50:1 fuel and cooling water.

Tohatsu service manuals are copyrighted, so are not available for free downloads. You would want 003-21035-1 SERVICE MANUAL, 1 & 2 CYL, 2-STROKE $45.00, available from any dealer... even me.

 

[DocTide]

Re: NS5B Gasket kit sourcing.

Ok, just drained the oil from the bottom... Of course it was milky. I know this can be labor intensive if it damaged the bearings. Is there a way to tell if it damaged them? Disassembly the only way?

Ordering LU seal kit and new water pump kit. EDIT:Thanks

Also, just be sure- when I search the part numbers listed, the items that come up say 2002+ NS5 models. Are they the same for the earlier models as well?

 

[pvanv]

Re: NS5B Gasket kit sourcing.

If the LU lube was "only" milky, odds are that the water is suspended in the oil, so you may be OK. If it sat long enough for the water to actually separate, then you may have a pile 'o rusty junk. Pull the prop shaft housing (the 2 bolts on the back of the LU) and inspect the internals to find out.

As I said before, No, there isn't any difference. A 5B is a 5B. Year is completely unimportant for servicing Tohatsu/Nissan outboards. Model/serial is the critical thing. Searching aftermarket databases is meaningless. Use a Dealer for your parts research. Those part numbers I listed are the correct ones for your motor. While on that topic, I must stress that my experience dictates that it is best to use real Factory parts in preference to aftermarket ones. Chevy parts for Chevies, Toyota parts for Scions, and Tohatsu parts for Nissan outboards.

 

[DocTide]

Re: NS5B Gasket kit sourcing.

Thanks, I actually searched Tohatsu.us (which seems to be located near me in Pompano Beach) and the years with your part numbers is what came up. So even Tohatsu dealers seem to seperate 2002+ models from older ones.

What happens if the engine does have some rust on the inside? It did appear the the first couple of dribbles were "clearish" then the milky oil, then dark oil came out. The engine certainly ran when we tested it, and it was sitting for 3 months at least. I took that as a good sign. Im pretty handy with 2strokes, but never had to deal with rusty components yet. IF I see rust, is the engine not worth rebuilding? I got the engine pretty cheap, and if I can spend some money to make it reliable, I would prefer that over a 3.5HP of the same weight.

You said they still make this engine, does that mean new LU parts available still?

 

[TOHATSU GURU]

Re: NS5B Gasket kit sourcing.

Parts are still available and rust on internal components are a bad thing. How bad, depends on what the individual part does and whether or not the part pitted from it. There are minor differences between the oldest 5 B and the latest one, but other than going from a steel tank to a plastic tank, nothing important. You can also vend your parts through any Mercury dealer. However, most of them are too dumb to know that Tohatsu made, makes, will make their engines

 

[DocTide]

Re: NS5B Gasket kit sourcing.

Haha. Thanks. Okay so tonight im going to drop LU, pull prop and instpect for rust. Im keeping my fingers crossed as this might mean taking a loss and selling it. I really want this guy to work out for me!

EDIT: If there is light rust, do dealers still work/replace parts for these things? I got it for under 200, and if it can be fixed and made reliable for no more than another 500 more- that still is less than an new 2.5HP 4s, and still might be worth it.

 

[TOHATSU GURU]

Re: NS5B Gasket kit sourcing.

No, there isn't any difference. A 5B is a 5B. But they have not been sold in North America for many years, because they don't pass EPA emissions certification. They are reliable, noisy, smoky, clunky, 2-strokes. Elvin would say that they are "stone hammer technology". Virtually indestructible if fed clean 50:1 fuel and cooling water.

Tohatsu service manuals are copyrighted, so are not available for free downloads. You would want 003-21035-1 SERVICE MANUAL, 1 & 2 CYL, 2-STROKE $45.00, available from any dealer... even me.

You know I have actually used field expedient tools. Rocks, bricks, 2 x 4, small child, etc to fix something on a beach or out in the water.

 

[DocTide]

Re: NS5B Gasket kit sourcing.

I recently read a thread on here about getting some evaporust in there to help see if any pitting has actually occured. Is this a bad idea? It removes rust pretty safely from when I used it in the past. Any reason not too? *I am also just assuming there is going to be a little rust, there might be a lot, or none.

 

[TOHATSU GURU]

Re: NS5B Gasket kit sourcing.

Never used it, so no opinion.

 

[DocTide]

Re: NS5B Gasket kit sourcing.

Is there a trick to taking the gearcase off? I have all the bolts loosened, and thought it would come off. What do I need to do to pull it off?

Edit: I meant to say the prop shaft and housing. Mine is in there really good.

 

[pvanv]

Re: NS5B Gasket kit sourcing.

Check your trusty FSM. There is a special "reverse puller" tool available, but few shops ever use them.

If needed, you can cobble-up a shop-made puller tool, or modify a harmonic balancer puller... 2 6mm bolts into the LU housing, and a cross bar (even a stout piece of oak will work) with a hole in the center for the prop shaft. The cross bar will push on the 2 bolts, and tightening the prop nut down on the cross bar will extract the prop shaft and housing from the LU case. Do not hammer on the ears of the prop shaft housing, or you will probably break them, and need to buy a new housing. There are also screw driver slots at the joint where the prop housing and the LU housing meet... if you have a perfectly-sized screwdriver, you may be able to twist (only) in that slot to coax the prop shaft housing out. Do not pry there, or you will likely break off an ear of the prop shaft housing, and need to buy a new one.

The prop shaft housing is shaped like a spool, and salt/corrosion can make it tough to remove. There is also some friction from the large o-ring that seals the prop shaft housing to the LU housing.

 

[pvanv]

Re: NS5B Gasket kit sourcing.

I recently read a thread on here about getting some evaporust in there to help see if any pitting has actually occured. Is this a bad idea? It removes rust pretty safely from when I used it in the past. Any reason not too? *I am also just assuming there is going to be a little rust, there might be a lot, or none.

Never used it. You need to disassemble to do the seals anyway, so you can inspect everything once you have it apart. If bearings or gear teeth are pitted, replace as needed. If not, just clean everything, install all the new seals, and you are good to go.

 

[DocTide]

Re: NS5B Gasket kit sourcing.

Thank you sir! The engine LU is much better looking than I thought it was going to be. Still have not got the prop housing off, but I have to wait until Sunday as I am heading out of town. The manual does not say much about getting these parts off... It literally says: remove 2 bolts... remove prop shaft housing... and so on. Pretty vague.

Just to be clear, your are talking about putting 2 screws with a crossbar into the 2 screw slots in the LU that screw horizontally into the housing yes? It was my impression that this end part of the housing comes off also, does it not (the very end where the screw heads sit) atleast in my manual it appears that way.

 

[TOHATSU GURU]

Re: NS5B Gasket kit sourcing.

Remove the two bolts, gently tap the housing sideways to move the bolt boss. Then gently tap the boss away from the lower unit and it will come out. Gently means gently.

 

[pvanv]

Re: NS5B Gasket kit sourcing.

Remove the two bolts, gently tap the housing sideways to move the bolt boss. Then gently tap the boss away from the lower unit and it will come out. Gently means gently.

Very Gently