NS18E2 factory timing info

[tjgatorland]

Good morning gentlemen. I wonder if I may trouble you for the timing settings for my 2001 18hp 2 stroke. I saw the 9.9 and 15 posted but not the 18. I would imagine they are very similar but since this isn't horseshoes or hand grenades I thought I better ask. I got my compression gage out and thought I would check that first then check my timing settings. I bought this new in 01 along with a 16.5 flat bottom smokercraft aluminum jon boat. For the last 20 years, I have never pulled it more than two times to crank it. I run it inshore here in N.E. FL. One day I'll get around to changing the factory impellar on it. Last time out it wouldn't ever plane out. It ran a fast idle with the tiller turned to the rabbit. I would have the wind and the tide behind me and it just would not get up and go. I did for unrelated reasons used a different tank and fuel hose that day. I cleaned the carb real good and put new 5/16 lines under the cowl and it ran on the hose fine. It would rev up in nuetral fine. Back to the water and same thing. I've cleaned that carb so many times I bought a new one from amazon. Back to the water and same thing. Got home on the muffs to flush it and run and rev up fine. I have taped all the fuel hose fittings and primer bulb ends in case it's sucking some air and about to check compression and hook up my spark tester. Then I thought I'd check the timing. Any ideas? I have read nearly every post you guys have done and y'all don't miss a thing!!! I'm about out of ideas. I'm holding out on that $30 quick connect fuel fitting that goes through the front of the lower cover. Call me cheap but that should be against the law!!!

 

[Sea Rider]

Welcome to IBoats,

With regard to the time advance/carb synch : stand at motor's front, throttle the grip to max and hold it there, check if the timing mark stops at 25º that's fifth line seen from left right at middle of both mating surfaces's line, the carb's butterfly must remain fully horizontal while the white roller remains sitting at the highest peak portion of the throttle cam. As this is a pure mechanical timing thing never goes wrong, unless fiddling with it. Report to go from there...

Happy Boating​

 

[tjgatorland]

All of that seems to be in order. Both holes had 120 lbs compression. The spark tester is not showing the same in each hole . The top one is bigger and brighter than lower one. I switched the plugs that are both brand new and retested and got the same results. It all makes sense now. The coil is good enough to idle and rev in neutral and breaks down under a load. I'm not sure what steps or parts to test to make sure I get everything I need for a complete repair. I'm all ears if you'll do me the honor. I have read most all that you have written on this forum about these smaller two strokes anyway, and I'm convinced you could teach the fsm a thing or two!!! I'll shut up now. Thank you for all you do Sea Rider!!!!!

 

[Sea Rider]

Thanks Tjgatorland,

With respect to spark plug intensity, which spark tester was used, the one with a light bulb ? If so, that's not that accurate, measure the spark again at a dark garage and check if bettered.

Achieving sparks at both plugs end is no indication that the motor will run top, it's all about the intensity of the spark. If that's the issue the motor will run OK at idle on muffs or open water and miss when at load at middle to max throttle.

Order a new dual Ignition Coil around $ 60.00

https://www.boats.net/product/tohatsu/3G2060401?ref=c6876379591bb14c2bba42866efcd163f848d25c

Would recommend to clean all the electrical wiring connectors including their respective grounds to a shinny condition. Report if all went fine on a wot run....If any other tech or mechanical issue isn't clear just ask...

Happy Boating​

 

[tjgatorland]

Sounds easy enough. It will take a day or two for coil to arrive. Would love to run it today forecast high 80 here in NE Florida today. Thanks again Mr. Sea Rider. I should have you an update in a few days!

 

[racerone]

They all rev up in neutral.-----Will do that running on just 1 cylinder.----That sort of testing means nothing !

 

[Sea Rider]

Much better is to troubleshoot spark issues with a spark tester, the ones you can increased/decreased the electrode's gap, will tell how healthy or not the Ignition Coil is. If the carb, exciter coil and CD are in excellent shape when having strange rpm behaviors throughout the throttle range the culprit is the I.C. Proper time to replace the impeller or the whole water pump.....

Happy Boating​

 

[tjgatorland]

I could see a big difference in the quality of the spark each cylinder had using a $3.99 tester from harbor freight in the daylight. I can't complain about that coil. I bought that kicker new in 2001with that coil on it. Water pump too. I have plans to replace that next month during our brief cold season. It's still pumping strong. I'm afraid if I don't drop that lower unit down soon, corrosion will make it difficult later. I am happy to report WOT strong and smooth. The best it's been in a while.
Sea Rider I have to comment on the link you gave me for boats.com. I checked their price for that coil with 2-3 other places. Comparing OEM coils
with tax and shipping they were all within a dollar of each other. I bought from boats.com with standard shipping on that Friday you sent me the link and TWO days later on Sunday afternoon that coil was on my front porch. They have themselves a new customer. I don't buy as many boat parts as I once did, but you can be sure I will check with them first whenever I need something in the future!!!
Thank you Sea Rider for all you do and thank you iboats forum for giving him the place to do it!
Cheers to a new year and another chance for us to get it right.
May God Bless America!!!!

 

[Sea Rider]

If factory delivered dual Ignition Coil fires uneven one side is with electrical issues, with a new coil install the motor will run top and agile. Clean/shine all electrical grounds and connectors of each electrical component. If the motor's lower leg has not been removed since out of the box expect to have a hard time pulling out any of the spring pins that locks the gear shift shaft onto the bronze round coupler and the drive shaft's splines from the lower crankshaft, much worse if its a salt water run motor. Grease the upper drive shaft's splines with marine grease prior installing and bolting the lower unit back in.

Happy Boating​