Re: Now What
Mike,
Yes, you can replace the kill wires with stranded single conductor wire. Make sure the 2 kill wires (one to each point set) goes through a rubber grommet in the armature plate on their way to the kill switch. If either of these two wires are grounded, it will kill the spark to the point set they are connected to. Under normal conditions, the kill switch connects both point sets together killing spark to both cylinders. As a test of your existing kill wires, you can disconnect them from the point sets and tape them up. Tuck them out of the way for the test. Replace the flywheel and test. You'll have to choke the motor to stop it from running
As for the timing, there's no adjustment. Timing is spot on when the crank shaft key is intact and not partially or fully sheared. A sheared flywheel key is the result of improper torque on the flywheel nut.
To set point gap, rotate crank shaft until the crank shaft key is aligned with the point set rub block ( part that rides on the point cam) then set point gap to .020. Rotate crank shaft 180 degrees and adjust 2nd point set the same as the 1st set.
Using an Ohm meter you can test the coils. Half way down this page shows the test. http://outboard-boat-motor-repair.c...on 3 HP 1952-1967 Ignition System Tune-up.htm
Now that you mention that about the kill switch, one of my wires is also frayed. I just wrapped some tape around it but maybe that's not enough. Can I replace it with regular stranded wire? Or do I need to purchase the part through a dealer?
I went back through all of the notes you guys have helped me with and checked the spark (looked good on both) and checked compression (125 on on and 130 on the other) and tried flipping some of the connecting pieces from the carb to the cam follower but nothing has helped. I still can't the the throttle arm to first move when the cam follower is in between the 2 lines.
Does anyone else have any ideas? Please. I am almost to the point of giving up but really don't want to. Can I check anything else?
Mike,
Yes, you can replace the kill wires with stranded single conductor wire. Make sure the 2 kill wires (one to each point set) goes through a rubber grommet in the armature plate on their way to the kill switch. If either of these two wires are grounded, it will kill the spark to the point set they are connected to. Under normal conditions, the kill switch connects both point sets together killing spark to both cylinders. As a test of your existing kill wires, you can disconnect them from the point sets and tape them up. Tuck them out of the way for the test. Replace the flywheel and test. You'll have to choke the motor to stop it from running
As for the timing, there's no adjustment. Timing is spot on when the crank shaft key is intact and not partially or fully sheared. A sheared flywheel key is the result of improper torque on the flywheel nut.
To set point gap, rotate crank shaft until the crank shaft key is aligned with the point set rub block ( part that rides on the point cam) then set point gap to .020. Rotate crank shaft 180 degrees and adjust 2nd point set the same as the 1st set.
Using an Ohm meter you can test the coils. Half way down this page shows the test. http://outboard-boat-motor-repair.c...on 3 HP 1952-1967 Ignition System Tune-up.htm