Not getting Spark on '86 3.0l Alpha 1

[Scott Danforth]

If you didn't file the points, start there.

Always set dwell with a meter . If the meter isn't reading, the coil isn't charging and you don't have spark.

 

[Steveu23]

If you didn't file the points, start there.

Always set dwell with a meter . If the meter isn't reading, the coil isn't charging and you don't have spark.

Filed and no reading on digital voltmeter I don't have an actual dwell meter. It's acting like there is a kill switch but there is none. Everything is grounded all connections tight, battery is fully charged, I'm shot.

 

[dubs283]

Check the capacitor, should spike continuously with your dvm set to ohms for testing

This test is performed on the bench, unloaded

 

[Steveu23]

Check the capacitor, should spike continuously with your dvm set to ohms for testing

This test is performed on the bench, unloaded

 

[Steveu23]

Yes sir. I did that with the old one and the new one I just installed to be sure. The old one was fine too, but I used the new one since it came with the kit.

 

[Steveu23]

Check the capacitor, should spike continuously with your dvm set to ohms for testing

This test is performed on the bench, unloaded

Yes sir. I did that with the old one and the new one I just installed to be sure. The old one was fine too, but I used the new one since it came with the kit.

 

[dubs283]

ive never tested for voltage/load with a dvm on a points ignition

i own a merc o tronic analog dwell meter that has never failed me

best guess is with key on and points closed use a stick (wood or plastic) to manually open/close the points. should see spark between the contacts if all is sound. this test can also be performed with the coil grounded with a sparky and a remote start switch

 

[Steveu23]

ive never tested for voltage/load with a dvm on a points ignition

i own a merc o tronic analog dwell meter that has never failed me

best guess is with key on and points closed use a stick (wood or plastic) to manually open/close the points. should see spark between the contacts if all is sound. this test can also be performed with the coil grounded with a sparky and a remote start switch

What if there is no spark? Where would go from there ?

 

[Steveu23]

One of the other things I replaced on this is the alternator. I swapped out the one that it came with because the the wires that were "imbedded" in it were corroded. I replaced it with another, made for mercruiser, alternator I had laying around, but made a few what I felt were logical assumptions since this alternator was screw type posts. If it is mis-wired would that keep the spark from sparking, especially since one of those wires going to the alternator is the purple resistor wire branched from the harness to the choke and the alternator. ???

 

[Scott Danforth]

Borrow a dwell meter

 

[Steveu23]

Borrow a dwell meter

For sure. The reversed wired alternator theory failed this AM

 

[Steveu23]

Continuing to trace my no start condition. This is a two parter. The first part is from my continuity testing of the engine side of the wiring harness:
Should both yellow and purple/red wire show continuity on the black #1 wire harness socket ? as well as both posts of the coil to black #1 and the metal portions of the distributor and points including the capacitor? But not the metal parts of the rotor. Also purple resistor wire at choke plus yellow wires on starter relay and ground wires also show continuity to #1
Purple wire #5 also shows continuity on both posts of coil and all distributor metal parts both starter terminals at choke as should be as well as alternator but also on yellow and ground wires on relay.
Yellow red #7 is showing continuity with purple/yellow on starter solenoid but also the black ground wires on the relay and Pins #1 the ground and #5 the purple pin.
It seems to me that those colored wires should not show continuity at the ground but only to their own coded plug terminal or sockets
The second part from my helm to the plug starting with just the ignition all three wires showed solid continuity however the wiring diagram show that my 20 amp fused red wire is supposed to split with one branch going to the #6 Red/Purple wire which it does just fine but the other branch is supposed to go to the #4 Orange wire that on my setup doesn’t exist on the helm side of the plug. That spot just has a slight rubber nub sticking out

 

[Scott Danforth]

Yellow with red stripe is crank signal. Not your issue if it cranks.

Back to dwell. If the dwell meter isn't registering anything while cranking, you have a points issue.

 

[Steveu23]

Hey all!
One of the things I've noticed while trying to research a solution to my boat issues is that posts just abruptly end. Which I get, we are all busy but it'd be nice to see how a solution actually played out.

In my case this was an engine swap of a 1987 2.5 for a 1986 3.0 EVERY SERVICE MANUAL is identical for these 2 engines. The exception coming from some torque specs for bolting down deep deep rebuild areas ie main bearings, etc.,

My issue came down to pins in the wiring harness barrels from the boat side to the engine side. They look the same but they ain't. What I ended up doing is jumping the ignition line from the original boat-side pin to the purple/yellow on the +coil terminal. That said I messed around with the distributor enough to now have to re-set the timing but..... we have strong spark and hope to splash this week. Enjoy your summer all and thank you all for your incite!

 

[Scott Danforth]

Did you set your dwell with a meter? Yes or no?

 

[Steveu23]

Did you set your dwell with a meter? Yes or no?

No sir. I tried to find a loner but most of my gear head friends have moved to warmer climates.

 

[Scott Danforth]

No sir. I tried to find a loner but most of my gear head friends have moved to warmer climates.

Go to your local auto parts store and borrow one

 

[Steveu23]

Ok I "borrowed" a digital dwell meter for $68 on Amazon (one of my biggest fears is that when I die my wife sells all my sh17 for what I told her I paid for it... ) The dwell range on this engine is 28-34 as is noted on the valve cover spec sticker. At the first test it tested at 44 which has me scratching my head because I started this thing in my garage by hot-wiring directly to the coil. The dwell is now set so 32.5 according to my new BTMETER BT-770K unfortunately, while I got the engine to cough a bit while making slight rotation adjustments to the distribution. cap it did not start. So my question is do I replace the purple resistance wire ? (Which I have on order BTW) PS if Mr. Danforth says to get a dwell meter..... get a f'n dwell meter