no water ?????

mygalaxie

Cadet
Joined
Apr 22, 2012
Messages
7
hi all im restoring a 1994 galaxie 1950v it has omc4.3 cobra. it starts right up i hooked up water muffs to the outboard and am not getting any water at water pump so i havent run the motor to long im thinking maby impellar? any sugestions would be very helpfull also i cannot get out drive to lift i open the tank cap on the pump and it drew in air so i think its empty i read in here about using motor oil insted of hydrolic or transmition fluid if so what weight and does it need to be of marine grade? i have never owned a boat so my terminology is probably way off please forgive me for that and im doing my best to learn im somewhat mechanically inclined so i will be trying to do a majority of this work my self so any links to work entailed would be helpfull aswell thanks in advance.
 

HT32BSX115

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 8, 2005
Messages
10,083
Re: no water ?????

Howdy,

Most people use automatic trans fluid because it's red and the color allows easy identifications of leaks.

It's a VERY simple hydraulic system and essentially, any petroleum type mineral oil(Hydraulic, trans, Power Steering, engine or other oil) will work. And it really won't hurt anything even if you mix them (but you're sort of defeating the purpose of using red oil if you mix it with a clearer oil) .

Just about all of them use a gerotor type pump or gear type pump and standard o-rings and seals which are compatible with literally any petroleum type oil. Just use a light enough oil so that it isn't thick in cold temps. Mercruiser service manuals actually recommend regular motor oil (10W-30/10W40) as a substitute.
 

mygalaxie

Cadet
Joined
Apr 22, 2012
Messages
7
Re: no water ?????

any info on location and removal of freshwater pump on my omc cobra 4.3l model #986032 ?????? need some info on gettin this fixed its dang hot out lol and the lakes a calling
 

wcasey5

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Feb 27, 2012
Messages
197
Re: no water ?????

Take a look at the back of the drive. there is a plastic cover with 3 3/8 bolts on the rear of the drive. Take the cover off and you will see a small round plastic casing with another 3 bolts. Remove those and the impeller comes off with the housing. Note the direction of the rotation of the impeller (which way the vanes are folded) so you install the impeller in the correct rotational direction. If you get the entire kit, the O-ring is tough to get to stay on the housing (it is shaped like a fat B, sort of. It is definitely not an O) I used some permetex to hold it in place while I installed it. That hardest part was lineing up the wedge in the impeller with the wedge shape on the shaft and get it seated. It took me all of 20 minutes to do, having NEVER worked on an outdrive or outboard motor in my life.

PS don't forget to grease the impeller shaft.
 

bruceb58

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 5, 2006
Messages
30,802
Re: no water ?????

Take a look at the back of the drive. there is a plastic cover with 3 3/8 bolts on the rear of the drive. Take the cover off and you will see a small round plastic casing with another 3 bolts.
Since you have a 1994, your pump may not be behind this cover. If it is not, you have the SX Cobra where the raw water pump is up at the engine.

1994 is the year that started the Volvo OMC joint venture. A 1994 boat could have either the newer or older drive.
 

mygalaxie

Cadet
Joined
Apr 22, 2012
Messages
7
Re: no water ?????

tips on getting impellar/pump housing burnt up plastic out of cooling system ??????
 

HT32BSX115

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 8, 2005
Messages
10,083
Re: no water ?????

tips on getting impellar/pump housing burnt up plastic out of cooling system ??????

Disassemble & back-flush as required. Check t-stat housing, oil/power steering coolers (if installed) and closed cooling heat exchanger (if installed) for blockage from impeller fragments. You may have to remove the oil/PS coolers to ensure that they are clear. Mine would NOT clear simply by "back-flushing" and it was almost completely blocked.

The hose from the drive to the t-stat housing (or heat exchanger) may be completely plugged.
 
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