No water discharge from port 1967 33hp evinrude

Old man Boat

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Hi all,
1967 33hp evinrude. With plugs out, I engaged the starter and find that no water comes out the discharge port (red arrow). Impeller is installed correctly, the intake to impeller is clear, as is the tube leading from impeller to supply water to the head (yellow arrow).
I blew into the tube (yellow) and very little is any air came out the port (red). I figured the amount of air coming out of the port would be the same as The amount I blew into the tube. No? I noticed about a 1/8” hole in the tube adjacent to the screw of the shift lever connection, but it’s hardly enough to bypass all the air I blow into the tube to allow zero air out the port. What may be the issue?
7D72AF1C-ADF3-434B-87E2-C96A9EBC0B12.jpeg
 

racerone

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Well----The 1967 models were green , so what is your model # on this very fine motor?------Have to ask.----Is the water in you test bucket at least 8" above the impeller ?----A very important fact / question.------And no , there is no need for all the air to come out that port either.------Relax as I do not think there is a problem.
 

F_R

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I also do not think there is a problem---at least not until proven by running the motor under normal conditions.

In the first place. testing it by running the starter is hardly a valid test. In the second place, only part of the water is supposed to come out the exhaust relief port. The rest goes out with the underwater exhaust.

The 1/8" hole is to cool the exhaust housing.

They don't come much simpler than the 33hp. Put it together as designed and don't try to re-engineer it, and run it on a boat on the lake where it was designed to be used.
 

racerone

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Now that you have it apart hopefully you are installing a new impeller.-----And every 5 years from now.-----These motors do not have an overheat warning or a shutdown system.----It would run until you notice it slowing down and coming to an expensive " dynamic halt ".
 

tblshur

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I don’t think you will get much water out until the thermostat opens or you take it out to check it
 

racerone

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tbshur----There is no thermostat on that model of motor !!!!!------And most OMC motors will pee right after startup.----Thermostat does not come into the picture !
 

Old man Boat

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Title says 1967, model 33753C.
New impeller was installed, and water level in test bucket was about an inch above the top of the impeller housing, not 8”.
I looked through my parts catalog and do not see any thermostat in the exploded view or parts listings. 🤔
 

racerone

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If it is a 33 HP it is a 1965 ./ 1966 model ----1967 to 1970 models were green.-----It was clearly stated that this motor does not have a thermostat.----Try it with more water in your test bucket.----These pumps are not self priming !-----Perhaps someone put a 1967 tag on it.-----Post pictures of the engine block / cylinder head.------It could also be a 1962 / 63 / 64 model 28 HP.----Is the serial # on the block the same as the serial # on your tag??
 

Old man Boat

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Old man Boat

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I’ll put it back together and find a deeper test barrel. It hasn’t started it over 15-20 years so this could be exciting!
 

racerone

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Sorry----- I am confused with the Johnson colors for some reason.------It is a 33 HP cylinder head.-----1967 might have been one if not the only year that the 33 model was white.----
 
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Old man Boat

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Got it running but it started to get hot. Very little water came out the upper port (red arrow previous photo). Laser temperature indicated 275° on upper block. Took lower unit off, connected hose to water tube and water came out upper port and what appears to be the area around the shift rod at the top where the tube goes into the block. Yellow arrows show water spraying from around that area. Normal? Gasket/seal bad/worn/gone? ?
First photo is shift rod, and water tube going
Into block
Second is “leak”
Last is inside water tube going into block
again, impeller is new and installed correctly and spins with drive shaft (key pin in place).
Blockage doesn’t seem to be an issue. Hopefully some input will clear this mystery.
thank you in advance
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Old man Boat

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No bites on that topic, so how about this... is there a screw, etc that I can remove on the block that will allow cooling water to shot out so I can see the strength of the stream developed by the impeller?
 

F_R

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1967 Evinrudes were white. Johnsons were green.
 

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F_R

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We are not there to examine your motor or diagnose the problem. But let me say this: If AIR (exhaust) enters the intake side of the water pump, it may not pump when running but might pump when spun with a drill. Why? Because when running, the water pump is surrounded by air (exhaust). It's up to you to examine the possibilities.
 

Old man Boat

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Not worried about color. I previously posted photos showing what looks like water spraying around shift rod at top where water tube goes into the block. Is that normal? Doesn’t look like it’s coming from where the tube slips into the block, but just above it maybe? Is there a rubber sleeve that deteriorated allowing water to squirt like in The photo? Isn’t all the water supposed to go into the block to circulate (besides the 1/8” hole midway between pump and block-cooling jet I’m told)?
 

F_R

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The flared upper end of the water tube is simply a tight fit into the cavity in the housing. No rubber seal or anything. It is not unreasonable to expect some leakage, but certainly not enough to have a negative effect on the cooling. Unless there is a big chunk busted out of the castings, remotely possible, but extremely unlikely. And all those passages are big enough to stick you pinky finger into---not likely to plug up.

If you truly think there is an obstruction or bypass, it's time to pull the powerhead and look for it. Personally, I think you are barking up the wrong tree.
 

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Old man Boat

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Photos in thread #13 shows the opening from tube to block, so no blockage there. Other 2 photos show shift rod and water tube just below the block. The blurry one shows water spraying around/above shift rod attachment (water sprayed on lens). Seems a lot of water not going into the block since it’s squirting above shift rod. I’m trying to exhaust all possible replies and inputs to avoid having to remove the exhaust section from the lower cover/block.
thanks to all that have input
 

racerone

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I have 5 Evinrude and 2 Johnsons 28 / 33 HP models laying around.----Weather permitting I will see if there is a screw / plug you could take out.----Maybe tomorrow or next week.
 
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