No voltage from just replaced coil - FT9.9GE

royalhero

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Sep 20, 2021
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3
Hi community!
I found this forum after my Yamaha FT9.9GE (6AVK) left me in the water after a sail just when entering the harbour back. I'm using with the remote control unit.

After reading around and even before getting my hands on the service manual I replaced the spark plug (as it was some time I did that) and engine started up again. I thought that's it... It sadly died again few minutes later.
I took the ignition coil off and tested for resistance. I also found the service manual and the value are actually in specs.
As the service manual suggest, I moved to the charge and pulser coil before even checking the CDI.

I built a DVA adapter and I checked the charge coil (unloaded) and got a reading of 30V against 140V from service manual specs. Ohms reading instead are within spec.
I said that's it. I bought a new coil (68T-85520) and some tools to help me with taking off the flywheel.
I replaced it and crank it... it runs!

Happy! Well not so really... it keeps shutting off.
I had a temporary pigtail connection from the charge coil because my previous one had 2 female connector while the new one have one male/female combo. I thought maybe that's the problem. Now with correct cabling, it doesn't even want to start anymore.

When checking the voltage again on the new coil, I get the same reading, similar as before
From the pulser coil I get 9V while specs says 7V (unloaded)

Can my meter be wrong?
Could be that I mounted back the flywheel not in the correct position causing a different gap for the coil?
Should I focus on the charge and pulser coil?
Is the lighting coil used to charge the battery (as it goes to the rectifier and the service manual in chapter 8 follow the order 1. pulser coil , 2. charge coil, 3. CDI output for the checks)?
I'm testing them unloaded... that should take off a bad ground wire from the equation, isn't it?

I did also try to unplug the white wire from the CDI.. just to be sure it wasn't an issue from the kill switch.

I'm also open to any other suggestion!
Thanks!
 
Last edited:

99yam40

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Sep 7, 2008
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8,892
service manual shows minimum peak voltages.
being higher is OK as long as the reading is not lower that the minimum spec given
 

royalhero

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Sep 20, 2021
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yes the reading on the charge coil is lower.. it should 140V and I'm getting 30-40V .. the question is why because I just replaced the coil with a new one.

I keep reading that a magnet going bad is really a worse case scenario. It still look quiet strong ... can the position be a bit off and affecting the magnet - stator gap?

Said that I'm not sure how I'm putting it wrong... the stator screw have a fixed position and the flywheel just go in the crankshaft pignon... it doesn't seem there is room for mistakes...
 

99yam40

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Sep 7, 2008
Messages
8,892
are you sure the charge coil you put in was the correct one?
it did not have the correct wiring.
did the charge coil match the old one you pulled out and did fit properly?

did you set the meter on DC when taking the peak readings?
did you spin the motor over fast enough to get a good reading?
Are you sure your DVA is made properly from the proper parts?
 

royalhero

Recruit
Joined
Sep 20, 2021
Messages
3
are you sure the charge coil you put in was the correct one?
it did not have the correct wiring.
did the charge coil match the old one you pulled out and did fit properly?

did you set the meter on DC when taking the peak readings?
did you spin the motor over fast enough to get a good reading?
Are you sure your DVA is made properly from the proper parts?

so Yamaha itself gave me the service manual. Parts number stated there is 68T-85520. The CDI unit has 68T printed over it.

Not sure why my old one had 2 female connector at the stator side. Looking on the web I found 63V-85520 which seems similar but it's marked for 2 stroke 9.9hp yamaha and my engine is definitely a 4 stroke.

The one I bought it does fit properly. Reading was done using DC and I do get good ones for pulser coil and lighting coils so I assume the DVA I built using the standard diode-RC circuit design seems to work good.
Battery seems to be good and it does crank as I remember when it did start :)

I'll try to talk again with Yamaha and check the replacement I got.
What surprise me a bit is that there is no gap indication for the stator-magnet in the service manual.
Is something I shouldn't worry about? Is there such a thing of a bad magnet if it does attract metal?

Thanks for your help in thinking!
 

99yam40

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Joined
Sep 7, 2008
Messages
8,892
can you show what DVA adapter design you followed?
I have heard of some using 2 resisters before that did not work as well.

seems when you changed the connectors is when the no start happened maybe?
 
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