No start condition again!!

[Lou C]

Are those manifolds on the closed cooling side?
Did a riser fail and put raw water in the exhaust gas passage of the manifold?

 

[FreeBeeTony]

Yes, manifolds were FWC'd.
I think I may have damaged them when troubleshooting another leak problem and may have over pressurized the system.
The manifolds look much worse than the risers, I plan on replacing both manifolds and risers.
Will be interesting to see what the heads and cylinders look like.
Plan on digging deeper this w/e.

 

[Lou C]

When I redid the top end of my 4.3 I took the heads to SK Speed Shop in Lindenhurst. They hot tanked them and checked for cracks. They found that the 2 center cyls on each head had cracks and the water passages were getting eroded to the point that they would not make a good seal on the new head gaskets. This engine was in salt approx. 15 years worth before that it was in fresh water. So I got a set of re-man marine 4.3 heads from them and installed them with new APR head and intake bolts. Their machine shop was good to deal with.....
​If I recall right, this is a reman engine, right? How many hrs on it? Being fresh water cooled makes it easier to get it apart and the repairs make more sense than a salt water cooled engine. Maybe you can get away with freshening up the heads.
​You'll probably find some corrosion on the stems of the exhaust valves. This and corrosion on the valves and seats might be the cause of the low compression. Hopefully your cyl walls and rings are not corroded.

 

[FreeBeeTony]

I removed the intake tonight.....it looked fine, the input passages on the head were clean.
​I'm expecting to find the exact opposite when I remove the heads this w/e.
​
I am familiar w/SK Speed.....how much did they quote you to re-furb your heads?
What did the charge you for the heads you purchased?

Yes, I bought the long block from RapidoMarine ~10yrs ago.....it's FWC'd including the manifolds.
I'm hoping bad exhaust valves are my compression problem.........pretty sure.

 

[Lou C]

They did not give me a firm re furb price because they were in worse shape tha the heads they can do there. The re man heads were $275 each with a one year warrantee. They charged $40 for checking the old heads. Total cost for the engine parts including gaskets was $800.
Then I had to get all new exhaust and convert to the 2 piece center riser style that was about $1200 because I used Barr instead of GLM and had to get some Volvo Penta OE 90* exhaust likes and hoses to make it fit.

​Since your engine is FWC the head bolts should come out easy and the heads should be able to be freshened up. Get a nice set of Fel Pro marine gaskets and I used the ARP head and manifold bolts. My head bolts were really corroded. I used a thread chaser to clean out all the threads in the block. When I did the intake bolts I had to use a u joint swivel adaptor to tighten the ones next to the carb mount with the torque wrench due to lack of clearance. The smaller ARP bolts came in handy there....

 

[FreeBeeTony]

Thanks Lou, may contact them today to see if they will give me a ball park #.
Do you know or any other machine shops in the area?
We must be pretty close...........I'm in Babylon.......you?

 

[Lou C]

They're tbe only one I have experience with. I was referred to them by a local boat yard owner. I'm up in Huntington and keep it on a rotating mooring.

 

[Lou C]

No Title

here's the finished product, first time running in looonnng while.....

https://www.dropbox.com/s/55j6h4dd1u8fv0k/IMG_2273.MOV?dl=0

 

[FreeBeeTony]

Looks nice and smooth......