No start and no tilt

[Neotrion]

I just pulled my boat out of the winter and wanted to change the lower end oil. I tried to tilt the engine and found I have no tilt. So then I attempted to just see if the engine would turn over and it does not turn over. I am convinced I have an electrical issue and the battery tests good. I am starting at the key and going to look for power there as the throttle also has the trim switch to see if I am getting voltage. What is odd is that I also have a tilt switch at the front and at the back. These are also dead, so hence I am convinced I have a power issue. Does anyone have a wiring diagram or something that I can go by to start tracing everything? Advice would be helpful. I have a 1987 astroglass V178. 110 Evinrude engine.

 

[racerone]

Check fuses.

 

[Neotrion]

Where are the fuses for the trim? Are they inline somewhere? I should state that all accessories as well as the pumps work. FM and VHF radio work but tend to work off of the deep cycle battery and not the starter. The main switch works fine.

 

[oldboat1]

Might help: https://maxrules.com/graphics/omc/wiring/88_89_88_110.jpg

 

[Neotrion]

Still working through the issue. I did find one of those resetting fuse switches that kept clicking. There are three with two being positive and one being negative. They are labeled bat 1 and bat 2 on the red but both come out of bat one. I am wondering if there is not a short in the red bat one cable since it kept clicking on its own. Either way I am going to replace all three of those automatic resetting fuses. I will say when taking the one that kept clicking off it did spark quite a bit. What is odd is that all of these large red cables go to the front of the boat. I do not see where they come back towards the engine. The key and trim switch had no power to it. I am wondering if somehow if they go to the front of the boat and junction off of the front controls that are used for trolling. In this there is a switch for the troll motor and tilt, but nothing to start the engine. I will see what I am getting from the engine in the way of power tomorrow. I have a feeling that something has to be disconnected. I did find another automatic resetting fuse, but I was getting power and continuity on that one.

 

[oldboat1]

Confess I can't follow your discussion. Did note reference to a negative fuse switch (fuses are always in a positive circuit). References to Bat.1/Bat.2 sounds like you are describing a battery selector switch, sometimes referred to as a "Perko" switch for one of the major manufacturers. Any pictures you could post?

 

[Willyclay]

Find the inline fuse in small red wire from the solenoid and check it. I had one that checked okay for continuity but did not allow enough power to crank my old OMC V4 motor. My problem was not the actual fuse but corrosion in the wire connections of the fuse-holder. Good luck!

 

[Neotrion]

So I think it was a combination of color wiring and the inline fuse. I ended up getting the trusty DVOM out and looking for continuity and figured out that the color codes did not match up. Thank you for all of your help. I have tilt back but did not turn it over as I was out of water. Battery one and two were labeled on the wires for the front of the boat and trolling motor. Why it was labeled that way I have no idea. I did put a selector switch for the accessories but did not touch this. I still had that clicking auto reset fuse. in but it was the color-coding that messed me up. Willyclay I am going to replace all of those auto resettable fuses as the ones that were clicking were going to the front of the boat for the trolling motor. It cost me like 10 dollars so I will pay for the peace of mind. I did note that when I put new plugs in that they did feel like the old one did. When torque down it felt almost like a torque to yield bolt. The older ones would simply sinch up and be tight. I got champion QL77JC4s and the only difference was they had what looked like crush washers on them. Old plugs did not have these. I just like to torque them on and have them feel tight. Are these the wrong plugs or just how these feel? Anybody have the recommended torque value on these? OldBoat1 thank you for the diagram. Between what I had and this it helped greatly.

 

[racerone]

Yes they will feel soft as you crush the seal----Plug torque is typically 15 FT-LBS