No Spark and Key wont turn the engine over.

LA Wayz

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Joined
Jan 8, 2022
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18
I got this 120 Mercury Force that is on a 1998 Bayliner Capri. It has the four Ignition coils but not the CDI Switch Box with all the wires hooked up to it like on the other threads I have been looking at and reading. It started up and ran when I got it 2 or 3 times. Got it home and it was having a problem starting but then it finally started and it ran fine. I went through the gears to make sure they was working (for/rev). I go back out the next day and it wouldn't do anything but turn over so I checked the fire from 2 spark wires but there was was none. I bought a new solenoid and key switch to fix the no cranking from key switch but it didn't fix that. I now have spares. I have been cranking from solenoid. I can't figure out what's wrong there either. I'm guessing a loose wire maybe. I turn the key on and all the lights will come on for the gauges and when I first got it we turned the key to the on position to get it to start (but we used the solenoid then as well) so I know that much. I tried running an extra wire from the ignition switch (S) (Yel/Blk) to the solenoid to see if it was a bad wire but same results, nothing. I will take some pics of the engine asap and post them here tomorrow. Compression reads good at 140,145,139 & 147. I recorded it running when I did get it to start that day and it sounded good to go.
 

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LA Wayz

Cadet
Joined
Jan 8, 2022
Messages
18
I got this 120 Mercury Force that is on a 1998 Bayliner Capri. It has the four Ignition coils but not the CDI Switch Box with all the wires hooked up to it like on the other threads I have been looking at and reading. It started up and ran when I got it 2 or 3 times. Got it home and it was having a problem starting but then it finally started and it ran fine. I went through the gears to make sure they was working (for/rev). I go back out the next day and it wouldn't do anything but turn over so I checked the fire from 2 spark wires but there was was none. I bought a new solenoid and key switch to fix the no cranking from key switch but it didn't fix that. I now have spares. I have been cranking from solenoid. I can't figure out what's wrong there either. I'm guessing a loose wire maybe. I turn the key on and all the lights will come on for the gauges and when I first got it we turned the key to the on position to get it to start (but we used the solenoid then as well) so I know that much. I tried running an extra wire from the ignition switch (S) (Yel/Blk) to the solenoid to see if it was a bad wire but same results, nothing. I have a few pics below of my engine. Compression reads good at 140,145,139 & 147. I recorded it running when I did get it to start that day and it sounded good to go.
 

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LA Wayz

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Joined
Jan 8, 2022
Messages
18
Did you leave it in gear ?
I thought of that and made sure it wasn't. I know on the 115 Mercury there is an interlock switch that will stop it from starting up but I don't see one on this engine anywhere.
 

merc850

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Jul 7, 2010
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2,026
Isn't it usually in the control box? Turn the key to start and wiggle the shift handle around N at the same time.
 

LA Wayz

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Isn't it usually in the control box? Turn the key to start and wiggle the shift handle around N at the same time.
I did see that it was inside the control box so I did exactly what you said I should try but I didn't get any results. I was hoping to hear a clunk, clunk, but nothing. I even tried cutting one of the yellow wires going into the shifter but still no fire. I need to find out how the shifter comes out to check it better.
 

LA Wayz

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Safety switch/lanyard...is it in place??
I have been so busy with a different engine, but I can see now it is going to need the carbs cleaned so I will start back on this one tomorrow. It does act as if the safety switch is stopping it from firing and something is also stopping it from turning the engine over. I've put a new ignition switch and a new solenoid but it still doesn't want to work by the switch. When I first got it home it was having some trouble then fired up and ran really good. I went out to try it again the next day but it wouldn't fire. I went through the gears the day before and thought it may have messed up the switch. I was told the lanyard was in the control box. Is there a way I can bypass that lanyard from the engine?
 

LA Wayz

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Jan 8, 2022
Messages
18
I have been so busy with a different engine, but I can see now it is going to need the carbs cleaned so I will start back on this one tomorrow. It does act as if the safety switch is stopping it from firing and something is also stopping it from turning the engine over. I've put a new ignition switch and a new solenoid but it still doesn't want to work by the switch. When I first got it home it was having some trouble then fired up and ran really good. I went out to try it again the next day but it wouldn't fire. I went through the gears the day before and thought it may have messed up the switch. I was told the lanyard was in the control box. Is there a way I can bypass that lanyard from the engine?
You know, I tried just cutting one of the wires but I think I should have cut them both and hooked them together if I want to bypass the lanyard, am I right?
 

LA Wayz

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Jan 8, 2022
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I'm eager to try it now, "cutting both yellow/blk wires and hooking them together to see if it gives me fire". Worth a try.
 

racerone

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Dec 28, 2013
Messages
36,273
I think if you put the " lanyard " wires together you will not have spark at the plugs.
 

LA Wayz

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Jan 8, 2022
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18
Well, I figured out why it wouldn't turn over with the key. I noticed on my 50hp Evinrude the yellow wire going to the solenoid was hooked up to the S but not on my 120 Mercury Force. I changed them around and it still didn't work until I moved the shifter back a half inch then it started turning over. Still no fire. What is this I am sharing? 20220118_152642.jpg
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 28, 2013
Messages
36,273
As far as I know it keeps the battery charged.-----Many motors ( 9.9 to 50 HP ) have electronic ignition and no battery or voltage regulator.
 
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