No joy on 1969 Evinrude

1

1969LarsonRude

Cadet
Joined
Jul 9, 2022
Messages
20
Here's my summer puzzler. Working on a 1969 Evinrude 85 hp model 85993E. Can't get it to run.

I have strong spark on all plugs. Battery is fully charged and it turns strong. Fuel is good and making it to the cylinders. Compression is good. Flywheel key is not broken. I set and cleaned the points when I replaced the amplifier, coil, and anti-reverse spring last fall. I replaced the fuel line and primer bulb last year as well. It started fine after I did all that. I winterized the motor, filled the tank with rec fuel and added StaBil for good measure. Stored it it indoors all winter. It ran in May after I got it out of storage
Not firing now. Like not at all. A few days ago it ran for 5 to 10 seconds. (Got a backfire out of it too, but I don't remember which happened first.) Regardless, I get nothing now - even with starter fluid.

I'm stumped. Couple engine buddies who have looked at it are stumped. What should I be looking at next?

Pics at the following link if they're useful. (Make sure you're sorted by date and looking at the most recent)

photos.google.com

1969 Evinrude 85hp

205 new items · Album by Scott Smith
photos.google.com photos.google.com
 
R

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
37,818
Tab on the rotor broken / not lined up ?------Do you get spark out of the coil ??
 
B

brodmann

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 17, 2008
Messages
426
That is an incredibly clean 1969 motor. Looks barely used. If you had the backfire after all the work was done, I'd check to see if the flywheel key is broken. Take out the #1 spark plug. It's the one that's closest to the top of the motor. I don't remember which side it's on. Stick a wooden dowel or screwdriver in the spark plug hole and slowly turn the flywheel by hand until the piston is all the way at the top. The timing marks should be very close if not right on TDC. If that's good, take each drain screw out of the carb and make sure gas flows out of all 4. With the screws out, pump the primer bulb a few times and make sure gas flows out of all of the drain holes. That's the basics. Now, if you replaced ignition parts and cleaned everything good in there and it ran good for a while, but now it doesn't, you may have a wire out of place slightly that has since been rubbed to the point that the insulation is worn down to the point where it's grounding out. In some pics, there were some pretty rough looking wires that were scraped bare in places. I'm guessing you've addressed this already, but if not, you need to replace al of the wires that are rough looking and are bare in places. Do you have a manual with correct "link and sync" instructions to make all of the timing/carb adjustments? If not, google and try to find all the initial settings. It will also give you a starting point for the carburetor adjusting screws. If it's "backfiring", that is either a timing issue, or what we refer to as a "lean cough" which means it's running lean. On those motors, the point gap must be perfect. .010. There are 2 or 3 lobes that the points ride on. There can't me any gap above .010 As you turn the flywheel, measure the gap on both sets of points at all lobes. It's better to have a gap of .08 or .09 in some spots than a gap of .11 at any point. There's a great website for information. "boatpartstore.com". Type in all the information on your motor and look for the "trouble shooting" page. It's usually got lots of information. I'd also get a spark tester from your local auto parts store.
 
B

brodmann

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 17, 2008
Messages
426
That is an incredibly clean 1969 motor. Looks barely used. If you had the backfire after all the work was done, I'd check to see if the flywheel key is broken. Take out the #1 spark plug. It's the one that's closest to the top of the motor. I don't remember which side it's on. Stick a wooden dowel or screwdriver in the spark plug hole and slowly turn the flywheel by hand until the piston is all the way at the top. The timing marks should be very close if not right on TDC. If that's good, take each drain screw out of the carb and make sure gas flows out of all 4. With the screws out, pump the primer bulb a few times and make sure gas flows out of all of the drain holes. That's the basics. Now, if you replaced ignition parts and cleaned everything good in there and it ran good for a while, but now it doesn't, you may have a wire out of place slightly that has since been rubbed to the point that the insulation is worn down to the point where it's grounding out. In some pics, there were some pretty rough looking wires that were scraped bare in places. I'm guessing you've addressed this already, but if not, you need to replace al of the wires that are rough looking and are bare in places. Do you have a manual with correct "link and sync" instructions to make all of the timing/carb adjustments? If not, google and try to find all the initial settings. It will also give you a starting point for the carburetor adjusting screws. If it's "backfiring", that is either a timing issue, or what we refer to as a "lean cough" which means it's running lean. On those motors, the point gap must be perfect. .010. There are 2 or 3 lobes that the points ride on. There can't me any gap above .010 As you turn the flywheel, measure the gap on both sets of points at all lobes. It's better to have a gap of .08 or .09 in some spots than a gap of .11 at any point. There's a great website for information. "boatpartstore.com". Type in all the information on your motor and look for the "trouble shooting" page. It's usually got lots of information. I'd also get a spark tester from your local auto parts store.
 
R

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
37,818
The sparkplugs are not used to do a proper spark intensity check.----You use a test device !----Need to see if spark is strong enough to jump a gap of 3/8" or more.
 
jimmbo

jimmbo

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 24, 2004
Messages
13,446
Do you know why we are always demanding a Large Gap for a Spark Test, even though the Gap on a Plug is usually about 0.030"?
 
F

F_R

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
28,224
Those spark checkers are ok for a quicky test. But they also can be a great deceiver. Ideally, you need to check for spark on all 4 cylinders at the same time, cranking with the electric starter, and plugs in (to load the starter and battery/electrical system).
 
A

airshot

Vice Admiral
Joined
Jul 22, 2008
Messages
5,081
Those other gap checkers are cheap, I have multiples and have used 4 at the same time....has a compression test been done ??
 
1

1969LarsonRude

Cadet
Joined
Jul 9, 2022
Messages
20
brodmann said:
That is an incredibly clean 1969 motor. Looks barely used. If you had the backfire after all the work was done, I'd check to see if the flywheel key is broken. Take out the #1 spark plug. It's the one that's closest to the top of the motor. I don't remember which side it's on. Stick a wooden dowel or screwdriver in the spark plug hole and slowly turn the flywheel by hand until the piston is all the way at the top. The timing marks should be very close if not right on TDC. If that's good, take each drain screw out of the carb and make sure gas flows out of all 4. With the screws out, pump the primer bulb a few times and make sure gas flows out of all of the drain holes. That's the basics. Now, if you replaced ignition parts and cleaned everything good in there and it ran good for a while, but now it doesn't, you may have a wire out of place slightly that has since been rubbed to the point that the insulation is worn down to the point where it's grounding out. In some pics, there were some pretty rough looking wires that were scraped bare in places. I'm guessing you've addressed this already, but if not, you need to replace al of the wires that are rough looking and are bare in places. Do you have a manual with correct "link and sync" instructions to make all of the timing/carb adjustments? If not, google and try to find all the initial settings. It will also give you a starting point for the carburetor adjusting screws. If it's "backfiring", that is either a timing issue, or what we refer to as a "lean cough" which means it's running lean. On those motors, the point gap must be perfect. .010. There are 2 or 3 lobes that the points ride on. There can't me any gap above .010 As you turn the flywheel, measure the gap on both sets of points at all lobes. It's better to have a gap of .08 or .09 in some spots than a gap of .11 at any point. There's a great website for information. "boatpartstore.com". Type in all the information on your motor and look for the "trouble shooting" page. It's usually got lots of information. I'd also get a spark tester from your local auto parts store.
Click to expand...
Working on a whole list of suggestions right now. I have cylinder one at TDC. Where do I look for timing marks?
 
jimmbo

jimmbo

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 24, 2004
Messages
13,446
Found these. Not factory but it does explain the Timing Marks on the Flywheel. It does assume you have a Test Wheel for it
img243.jpgimg244.jpgimg245.jpgimg246.jpgimg247.jpg
 
1

1969LarsonRude

Cadet
Joined
Jul 9, 2022
Messages
20
jimmbo said:
Found these. Not factory but it does explain the Timing Marks on the Flywheel. It does assume you have a Test Wheel for it
View attachment 384630View attachment 384631View attachment 384632View attachment 384633View attachment 384634
Click to expand...
Thanks! I appreciate this a lot. However, in reading it I suspect my understanding and experience are not sufficient to work through it.

This is quite frustrating. All the work I had done was in an effort to get the boat sold. I love the boat but it doesn't fit our family anymore. I had it running in the spring, but now that I have interested buyers it won't start. Argh.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top