No blocking diode in slow mode VE115TLETS wiring harness????

saltchuckmatt

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I don't believe your model has that diode. Others may know. Probably have a different problem if your motor is giving you troubles.
 
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motor is on 22' Lowe deck boat that belonged to my dad. about 2005 he removed vro system, maybe because of alarm. the alarm never quit. I have been trying to resolve since 2013 since he moved 100 miles to live next door to me, before I was diagnosed with leukemia in 2019. I began a 2 years of clinical trial chemo in 2021; I am now undetectable. but the motor still will not get above about 2500 rpm. it also was very hard starting. I have replaced power pack, coils, plugs, fuel pump, fuel pump discharge manifold, primer solenoid, water pump, temperature sensors, and remote control. it starts EASY!! and idles smoothly. but it still will not get above 2500 rpm. so I replaced thermostats and temp sensors again. I tested old Thermostats and they both appear to work correctly. I have not tested temperature sensors but thought I may as well eliminate the final suspect, and went looking for the diode. there is a single crimp splice where the diode should be. one side has 3 wires: port temp sensor, starboard sensor, and a vro connector that has been taped off--maybe this went to the old carburetor? the other side of the connector has two wires, 0ne goes to the red harness connector and then to the disconnected alarm; the second one disappears into the battery compartment where it is taped off; I assume it went to the oil tank?

so how does the power pack know that the sensors say the motor is overheating?

this is a ve115tlets which is a 90 degree crossflow design? my "Clymer" manual does not mention the slow protection for the 90degree crossflow but does for the 60 degree loop charged. I have just assumed that it was a formatting issue and my engine had slow protection? Why would it have temp sensors and not have slow protection?

this would be a CD4
 

saltchuckmatt

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Kind of rambling and hard to keep up, might have been messed with or the wrong parts were ordered.

Answer this please.

Port temp sensor has two wires?

Sounds like you possibly might have the wrong power pack but other things can make your motor run poorly.

I believe the power pack has a rev limiter and when the overheat sensor sends a signal down it goes.

Your two power pack part numbers are 584028 and 584030. Is that what you have?
 
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sorry about the ramblin. its just that this has been going on soooo looonnnng. I feel like I have a victory over cancer but this motor is testing my fortitude.

there is one wire from port sensor and one wire from starboard sensor.

it looks like maybe the original power pack is back in the engine. it is #584027. I have a CDI power pack 113-4028 in the box of removed parts. cannot remember why it is not on the motor now. I'll blame it on chemo "fog" instead of being 76.
 

saltchuckmatt

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Well the part numbers I gave you are the originals to your motor. There wasn't any upgrades since it was built. I have a 93 GT 100 and they should be the same.

I can only assume the power pack you have has the rev limiter feature and if it doesn't have the right harness telling it it has no issues it will put it into limp mode.
 

saltchuckmatt

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Try starting it and remove one plug wire at a time and see what it does. I think you purchased to many parts and one of the power packs isn't working or isn't working correctly.

Are you using the boats main tank or a portable tank?
 

racerone

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Only has one powerpack I believe.----Does spark jump a gap of 3/8" or more on all leads , yes or no?----And post the actual compression values here.----There are no wires going to the carburetors !-----The temperature switches are only there to sound the overheat alarm !!-----Are carburetor high speed jets ( orifice plugs ) confirmed to be clean-----Do not run this motor if carburetors might be plugged !
 
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I have a lot of reassembly to do before I can run the motor. In order to replace the thermostats, I had to loosen the lower engine cover. I never truly got it loose, but I got it to wiggle enough to replace the thermostats. I will work on this tomorrow morning.

I am using the main tank. I have drained it flushed it and replaced with premix fuel. I only use non ethanol. I replaced the pickup tube, screen and coast guard required fitting at the top of the pickup tube.

It starts and runs so smooth at idle, I would be surprised if there was a coil problem. I guess at high rpm..... but slow kicks in and out consistently?

I am not exactly certain I have sufficient testosterone to pull plug wires while engine is running. I have a fresh set of plugs that I can run and compare with each other.

regarding the original powerpack part number, the motor ran fine for 10 to 12 years. Dad only used it maybe 4 or 5 times a year.

compression is 154, 164, 162, 159
 

racerone

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?????----It has been stated that your motor does NOT have the slow system !----Why keep referring to it.-----I have never seen compression values that high on one of there crossflow motors.-----Use a timing light and see if there is spark on all four leads !-----Are the wires from powerpack to the top 2 coils ( cylinder 1 and 2 ) orange with a blue stripe ?
 
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One Power Pack. I misspoke(Biden Moment) when I referred to wires going to Carb. There are 4 wires that went to the Fuel Pump/VRO; one of the wires is tan. carburetor was pristine. I replaced float needle valves. I am not familiar with orifice plugs. cannot answer if spark jumps 3/8"; I will try to figure some way to verify tomorrow. if i ran it thru an old plug would it still need to be 3/8"?

My compression numbers in previous post were from memory. I cannot find my notes at the moment. what I recall was one cylinder mid 150's, 3 cylinders low 160's.
 

racerone

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Flywheel magneto system can produce spark that can jump up to 1/2"----You need to test the health of the system.----Wires going to the fuel pump are for the " no oil " warning system !-----Flywheel key checked ?
 
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compression numbers may have been another Biden moment. I worte them on a piece of cardboard that I cannot locate. I can verify again tomorrow. I am using an amazon gauge which I consider useful for comparing cylinders, but values have been credible in the past. My memory is not as good as the gauge.
 

Faztbullet

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so how does the power pack know that the sensors say the motor is overheating?
I doesnt know as previous posts have stated. Pull the carbs and cleam and install new gasket kits. Never reuse old gaskets
 

saltchuckmatt

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You can buy these at most auto stores or buy one online....they measure the ark of the spark to see if your getting the "wack" that you need. I think you have a spark issue but you could have fuel....just never know until you work through them all.

As far as compression, those numbers are better than when it was made but I think at this point is what your saying is....it's a low use outboard and compression isn't an issue.

Get the spark thing done first and then move on... Timing light, jump test tool.
 
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Good news that spark is good is dwarfed by bad news that compression sucks.
Checked compression again with my Amazon tester. Noticed that needle was not zeroed; it was holding ar 50 psi. no zero adjustment. opened gauge and moved needle back to zero. tested a couple of cylinders; mid 90's; and then it quit.

Borrowed a new gauge from local auto parts store. cylinders are testing in the mid 30's. wish I could make myself believe the new gauge was wrong. Maybe Dad removed VRO because he thought the alarm was VRO, otherwise "slow" would protect? NOT ME! I do not know. starts so easy and runs so smooth at low rpm......Sucks

Fatal?
 
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