Nissan 18e2 hesitation

Sea Rider

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Re: Nissan 18e2 hesitation

The little tach I got tops out at about 5300 rpms at wot with a light load in the boat. I know the wot rpm range is 5200-5800 but would I benefit any from a prop with a different pitch? I don't know anyone with an ignition coil or cd component that I could use to test. Thanks for your help.

5300 rpm lightly loaded at wot is very poor, you need at least to go down 1 less pitch which will bring your revs up near 5500/5600 rpm, will achieve better hole shot that runing at 5300 rpm. A prop swap will not solve your problem, as it seems it's entirely electrical component related.

With wrench torque all intake manifold bolts, probably bit loose and sucking unwanted air ?

Sometimes electrical components swap testing is the fastest way of diagnosing correctly specially if suspecting having internal heat component misbehaviours which are difficult to diagnose on spot.

Happy Boating
 

penoe01

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Re: Nissan 18e2 hesitation

Do you have any ideas how much it would cost to take it in to a dealer and have all the electrical components checked?
 

Sea Rider

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Re: Nissan 18e2 hesitation

The checkout will be near instant with proper intrument, fastest would be swaping ignition coil at dealer and testing engine with test prop on a barrell. Ignition coils costs around $ 60-70 and CD around 200. It's usually one or the other that is faulty. Call any Tohatsu, Nissan delaer near you and ask for hand labor cost + mentioned replacement parts.

Before calling, are your plug's cap inmaculate interior clean, that is with no rusted or deteoration signs ? You could check with ohm meter unscrewed end caps, readings must be same for both, if not change end caps. Take advantage to check cable end portion to be completely shinny, if found rusted, blackened cut 5 mm at each end, screw back caps. Both parts could hide issues and give trouble for correct ignition coils outputs.

Happy Boating
 

penoe01

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Re: Nissan 18e2 hesitation

Well, it has been a while since I posted anything about this hesitation issue. Just wanted to update everyone. I did try replacing the ignition coil, was able to get it online for just under $50. However it did not solve the problem. Engine runs fine except somewhere between 2800 and 3400 rpm's only while accelerating under load. I was tired of throwing parts at it so I finally took it in to a dealer to have it looked at. I will let you know if they find anything. They also said they would try to seperate the lower unit for me so I could change the water pump. Thanks for all the help.
 

penoe01

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Re: Nissan 18e2 hesitation

Well, it has been a while since I posted anything about this hesitation issue. Just wanted to update everyone. I did try replacing the ignition coil, was able to get it online for just under $50. However it did not solve the problem. Engine runs fine except somewhere between 2800 and 3400 rpm's only while accelerating under load. I was tired of throwing parts at it so I finally took it in to a dealer to have it looked at. I will let you know if they find anything. They also said they would try to seperate the lower unit for me so I could change the water pump. Thanks for all the help.

I know it has been a long time since my last post. After I got it back from the dealer the second time and $400 later still the same problem. They told me they adjusted the carb and then it ran fine. When I got it back the idle was so low it wouldn't even stay running. The hesitation is still there. Seems that the heavier the load in the boat the worse the hesitation is. Any ideas?
 

pvanv

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Re: Nissan 18e2 hesitation

From a technical standpoint, you may still have a too-lean "flat spot" in a carb circuit (or another problem, but the carb is the most common problem area). But I would ask the dealer if they will review their work, since it still is not repaired.
 

TOHATSU GURU

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Re: Nissan 18e2 hesitation

Dump your fuel, do a remix making sure you do not have too much oil. Put in a new set of correct spark plugs and run the engine for 30 minutes at high RPM. If you still have the same problem it's either a carb issue or the normal bubble where the engine circuit transitions from low to high speed.
 

Sea Rider

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Re: Nissan 18e2 hesitation

Lost thread track, how old is that engine, does the issue is at just at 3000-3000 rpm, what about full wot, is it same, engine tends to die ?

Happy Boating
 

penoe01

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Re: Nissan 18e2 hesitation

Lost thread track, how old is that engine, does the issue is at just at 3000-3000 rpm, what about full wot, is it same, engine tends to die ?

Happy Boating

The engine never dies. Just bogs down when you accelerate. If you hold it wide open for about 15 seconds its like it catches up and takes off like it should. No problem at wot. The engine is a 1999. I have noticed that it gets worse the more weight you put in the boat. With just me it only takes a few seconds to get through the bogging down section. With a second person in the boat it is much longer.
 

TOHATSU GURU

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Re: Nissan 18e2 hesitation

Is this engine in a new application or is it being used on the same boat and it worked correctly before?
 

Sea Rider

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Re: Nissan 18e2 hesitation

Is your prop in good cond ? what about a spun prop or in its way to become one ? If you pass the hesitation while throtelling does the rpm increases up evenly till wot, or the engine just catches up while at wot ?

Happy Boating
 
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penoe01

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Re: Nissan 18e2 hesitation

Is your prop in good cond ? what about a spun prop or in its way to become one ? If you pass the hesitation while throtelling does the rpm increases up evenly till wot, or the engine just catches up while at wot ?

Happy Boating

The prop is new. If you pass the hesitation while throttling the rpm does increase up evenly till wot. I took a video of what happens today when I took the boat out for a test run. Hopefully you can hear the bogging or sputtering in the video.
Thanks everyone.
 

Sea Rider

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Re: Nissan 18e2 hesitation

Is thermo in good working condition ? My 18 horse does near same around 1/3 throttle, those 18 needs to be hot to work evenly throughout the whole throttle range What usually do is warm the engine for at least 3 min at neutral, throttle to 1/3 untill the hesitation stops and gradually open her up to 3/4 for a fast plane, usually go light loaded with min 1 max 2 boaters.

The only time that find the hesitation is skipped is when installing new and fresh spark plugs. What's your current water temp cond ? Do you warm you engine and for how long ? I've had 2 previous 18 horses and both did same, seems a temp issue, currently living with it, once warm it's a different story.

What can do is once engine is fully warm, go for at least a 1-2 minute wot spin, throttle back to idle and open her up to hesitation point, if doesn't miss is a temp related issue.

Happy Boating
 
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penoe01

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Re: Nissan 18e2 hesitation

Is thermo in good working condition ? My 18 horse does near same around 1/3 throttle, those 18 needs to be hot to work evenly throughout the whole throttle range What usually do is warm the engine for at least 3 min at neutral, throttle to 1/3 untill the hesitation stops and gradually open her up to 3/4 for a fast plane, usually go light loaded with min 1 max 2 boaters.

The only time that find the hesitation is skipped is when installing new and fresh spark plugs. What's your current water temp cond ? Do you warm you engine and for how long ? I've had 2 previous 18 horses and both did same, seems a temp issue, currently living with it, once warm it's a different story.

What can do is once engine is fully warm, go for at least a 1-2 minute wot spin, throttle back to idle and open her up to hesitation point, if doesn't miss is a temp related issue.

Happy Boating

Current water temp is mid 60's. It happens even in 80 degree water though. I always warm up the engine at least three minutes. Makes no difference if the engine is warm or not. Still happens after running at wot for a while. Tried new plugs but didn't help. It has been a couple years since I changed the thermostat.
 

Sea Rider

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Re: Nissan 18e2 hesitation

Try decarboning piston and rings with carbon guard spray through the carb, follow can instructions. Sometimes does miracles in engines heavily carbon up, or the ones that don't use carbon guard additives on fuel on a regular basis.

Some issues after watching the video :

-Is engine well transom height seated, with well ballanced boat, once at plane, check where is water flow passing through with respect to LU.

-Does it pass over or under small upper water deflector plate ?

-Was the engine well flushed after its use, specially if used on salt water

-Is the thermo in good clean working state, or extremely rusted or salty ? Do you know how to check thermo operation outside engine ?

-Is all I can think of for now...

Happy Boating
 
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penoe01

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jul 23, 2012
Messages
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Re: Nissan 18e2 hesitation

Try decarboning piston and rings with carbon guard spray through the carb, follow can instructions. Sometimes does miracles in engines heavily carbon up, or the ones that don't use carbon guard additives on fuel on a regular basis.

Some issues after watching the video :

-Is engine well transom height seated, with well ballanced boat, once at plane, check where is water flow passing through with respect to LU.

-Does it pass over or under small upper water deflector plate ?

-Was the engine well flushed after its use, specially if used on salt water

-Is the thermo in good clean working state, or extremely rusted or salty ? Do you know how to check thermo operation outside engine ?

-Is all I can think of for now...

Happy Boating

Water flow is good, I remember checking that before. I also decarbed the pistons when I changed the head gasket. I always flush with fresh water after every use. I do know how to check thermo outside of engine, I guess that will be the next step. It's weird that this issue just one day appeared when it never happened before on the same boat in the same application. Thank you all for your suggestions.
 

Sea Rider

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Re: Nissan 18e2 hesitation

Thermo procedure check :

-Remove thermo cap screws, remove thermo.

-Check thermo cond, if severely salted, submerge thermo on a cup filled with plain vinegar, let soak 15 minutes, with old toothbrush, brush away spring and plunger salt remains.

-Get a heat resistent containes pyrx type, fill with water, place a wooden/metal stick across (middle edge to edge) of container, suspend thermo on a string in middle stick onto water. Suspend a thermometer side of container, slowly heat and stirr the water, verify thermo opens at 140?F/60?C. If doesn't open at specified temp replace themo with a new one. Thermo and thermometer must not be touching container bottom while being suspended.

-Probably will need a new thermo gasket if old breaks when removing, or seat new thermo, apply a light coat of mega grey silicone under cap and seat it, tighten screws. Both mating surfaces must be inmaculate cleam before applying silicone.

-Start engine, at neutral let warm a minute or so, place hand to touch exiting heated water at middle rear side of engine, will feel its warming and cooling cycles, thermo is working spot on.

-With engine off, throtttle grip to wot, check if you achieve fully opened butterly when cam stops at highest cam peak rest position, you could have carb achieving a fully opened butterfly slight before cam reaches highest peak ? If carb and advance timing are ok, and white roller is at its highest cam peak, you should be able to spin roller with fingers smoothly. Post findings.

Happy Boating
 
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