newbie, hydrolock, n how we are related

skideck2

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Re: newbie, hydrolock, n how we are related

Hope not... so busy over here too i just cant get her right now. Gonna put the manifolds back on n pressure the block with my plugs in the ends of the manifolds, pressure test the block, n if that doesnt work, i spose i could fill the manifolds with some water n uv dye, then vacuum the block to simulate what happened??? that way when I do finally pull the heads or intake to look I can see for sure if I have a crack? , just trying to prep everything in case i dont have anything bent or broke from squeezing water till my battery died. A crack would also explain water in my two center cylinders..n heat exchange would lead it there i spose.. <......freakin out again
keep you posted
 

HT32BSX115

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Re: newbie, hydrolock, n how we are related

n heat exchange would lead it there i spose..

Is it closed cooled?

Pressure checking the block will test your block, heads, circulating pump, intake manifold and oil or PS cooler if you have one and you keep it in line for the test.....
 

gbeltran

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Re: newbie, hydrolock, n how we are related

I'm still wondering how you pressure tested the bat wings. If you just capped off the outlet, and the ports where it bolts up to the head and applied vacuum via the water inlet that wont tell you if it's cracked internally. Maybe I just am not seeing the big picture. If you look in the outlet end you can see where the water exits, those openings are what need to be sealed up, then you can apply the vacuum or pressure via the water inlet.
 

HT32BSX115

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Re: newbie, hydrolock, n how we are related

I'm still wondering how you pressure tested the bat wings. If you just capped off the outlet, and the ports where it bolts up to the head and applied vacuum via the water inlet that wont tell you if it's cracked internally. Maybe I just am not seeing the big picture. If you look in the outlet end you can see where the water exits, those openings are what need to be sealed up, then you can apply the vacuum or pressure via the water inlet.

Yeah....pictures would help a lot of people here trying to do the same thing!
 

skideck2

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Re: newbie, hydrolock, n how we are related

sorry bout the lack of pics, i am not that computer saavy at all..i'll get some up though. I grabbed a piece of 1/4 inch plate,(lyin around) set my manifold down where it would mate to the block, marked my holes, drilled through, did the same with a piece of 1/2 rubber(lyin around). drilled holes where 1/2" holes where the exhaust ports would be, tapped and plugged with teflon wrapped brass plugs, sandwiched the rubber, stuck vacuum on inlet side with pressure gauge, plugged outlet side. held pressure, then timed and removed each plug and put it back. Theoretically, if I had a crack near one of my ports, it would lose pressure(or repressurize) quicker after removing one of my plugs..dunno though cuz I didn't lose any pressure.. I was in kinda a hurry when I threw it all together, so maybe I'm off base??? Sounded good in theory though.
 

skideck2

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Re: newbie, hydrolock, n how we are related

do have a p.s cooler, had to take it out and resolder the bottom on.. she took on water in the heavy seas of P.O. didn't winterize.
 

skideck2

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Re: newbie, hydrolock, n how we are related

kay, back out to pressure test the block...again sorry bout the pictures, wife says she will put all my pictures in a file that says BOAT, an i can push this image button right above the word wife and it will be easy after that..easier would be my wife just doing it all.. but shes so patient with the boat..i cant really complain right now :rolleyes:
 

gbeltran

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Re: newbie, hydrolock, n how we are related

sorry bout the lack of pics, i am not that computer saavy at all..i'll get some up though. I grabbed a piece of 1/4 inch plate,(lyin around) set my manifold down where it would mate to the block, marked my holes, drilled through, did the same with a piece of 1/2 rubber(lyin around). drilled holes where 1/2" holes where the exhaust ports would be, tapped and plugged with teflon wrapped brass plugs, sandwiched the rubber, stuck vacuum on inlet side with pressure gauge, plugged outlet side. held pressure, then timed and removed each plug and put it back. Theoretically, if I had a crack near one of my ports, it would lose pressure(or repressurize) quicker after removing one of my plugs..dunno though cuz I didn't lose any pressure.. I was in kinda a hurry when I threw it all together, so maybe I'm off base??? Sounded good in theory though.

That would work for testing if the manifold had an external crack, wouldn't work for finding an internal one. I honestly don't think there is a way to pressure test the batwing manifolds. What needs to be sealed is the water passages, and there isn't any way to do that on the outlet end, take a look inside and you will see waht would need to be plugged. They are notorious for leaking. You can replace them with later model 2 piece versions, I think even volvo-penta kept the 2 piece design. That will require 2 adapter tubes to mate the newer versions to the y pipe, Moore Performance in California makes them, about 225, they also sell a kit with new manifolds that runs about 750. Not sure if the later model down pipes would work. So you have options, unfortunately none are cheap.
 

skideck2

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Re: newbie, hydrolock, n how we are related

think i see what you are talking about... wonder if I drill a hole in my plate right at the water passage and vacuum it?
 

skideck2

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Re: newbie, hydrolock, n how we are related

kay, now i'm not sure if I have the batwing manifold or not... marine shop in helena said i do n it's bullet proof, i've since heard nothing but bad, seen two diff. pics on here of two different styles, each claiming batwing, n i still can't post a pic!!! FOund a picture on the ye ole google at shipwreck salvage---984222 or 0984222 starboard 4.3l v6 that is exactly what I have...can someone please clarify???
I spose the innards would be similar, but it's very difficult to explain a parts test without pics if i am talking the wrong part!!
 

gbeltran

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Re: newbie, hydrolock, n how we are related

Yes, that's the batwing.
 

skideck2

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Re: newbie, hydrolock, n how we are related

k, now i think im starting to spen to much time on this engine again...just don wanna drop a ton of money on risers, then on the block, think i'm gonna start stripping her down n swap all my good parts into a used blazer block, hope my innards arent bent from turning the engine over while it was hydro locked so long...that'll ofset the cost of manifolds, cuz it sounds like i need em. I have an 86 gm v6 block sittin, bad valves, anyone no if my holes ll line up at the transom?? never have pulled a transom off n don wanna get started if i can't do the rebuild n swap quick, don have room in hte shop for the boat n the snow ll start to fly here soon...
 

gbeltran

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Re: newbie, hydrolock, n how we are related

If your 86 4.3 has a one piece rear main seal then yes, it will go in without issue. If it's got the older 2 piece seal then no, because the coupler for the outdrive will not bolt up. Bellhousing pattern is the same. Pulling the drive is not that complicated. Then just unbolt the bellhousing, motor mounts, all the hoses, a manual would be advised.
 

jeromeb

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Re: newbie, hydrolock, n how we are related

Hi all,
I'm a "newbe" and first time boat owner but longtime auto technician. I've been lurking about and came upon skideck2' dilemma. I might just have the same problem. My boat is a 1986 Searay with an OMC 4.3 engine. The engine is locked tight and was that way when I bought it. It has the infamous batwing risers. The cost of OMC risers is way above that of comparable Mercruisers. My question is, has anyone attempted to swap risers? Is there a kit and is it possible to use Mercruiser in place of out of production OMC risers? I've been concentrating on getting a replacement engine and haven't yet started to remove the current locked up one.

The site is tremendous for information.
 

gbeltran

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Re: newbie, hydrolock, n how we are related

Hi all,
I'm a "newbe" and first time boat owner but longtime auto technician. I've been lurking about and came upon skideck2' dilemma. I might just have the same problem. My boat is a 1986 Searay with an OMC 4.3 engine. The engine is locked tight and was that way when I bought it. It has the infamous batwing risers. The cost of OMC risers is way above that of comparable Mercruisers. My question is, has anyone attempted to swap risers? Is there a kit and is it possible to use Mercruiser in place of out of production OMC risers? I've been concentrating on getting a replacement engine and haven't yet started to remove the current locked up one.

The site is tremendous for information.

You'll get more results if you start a new thread, tacking another question in a thread is called jacking, and frowned upon. The mercruiser one piece manifolds have an oval outlet, which matches the oval outlet on the mercruiser y-pipe. OMC is round. Not saying it can't be done in some way, just haven't seen it.
 

jeromeb

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Re: newbie, hydrolock, n how we are related

You'll get more results if you start a new thread, tacking another question in a thread is called jacking, and frowned upon. The mercruiser one piece manifolds have an oval outlet, which matches the oval outlet on the mercruiser y-pipe. OMC is round. Not saying it can't be done in some way, just haven't seen it.

10-4. I appreciate the info on both counts.

Jerome B.
 
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