Newbie here

Yankee817299

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Mar 17, 2011
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Hello all, I am a newbie here and have a few questions for all you guru's. Just acquired a 95 Four Winns Horizon 200 with a OMC 5.0L engine powered by Penta. The boat came to my wife through her long drawn out divorce. She was told by her ex in his attempt to persuade her to leave him the boat that the engine was blown and the hull was damaged. When we got the boat to our house, there was no hull damage, the engine looks to be all there, no oil or fluid leaking in the engine compartment or in the bilge area under the engine. The engine oil is at the proper level, and looks like new oil. On the out drive, the fin right behind the prop is broken off at the bottom. Probably 3" x 5" piece.

What we would like to know, what can I look at to determine the condition of the engine. I don't want to crank it if there is any internal damage. I was thinking first, to pull the plugs and see if I can rotate the crank by hand??

Also, on the out drive, can a piece of alluminum be welded back onto this and polished?

Any advice sure would be appreciated.

Just a note, I do light mechanical work on my car and have 2 Kawi jet ski's that I also wrench on (2cycle's). Not real sure on what's inside the engine compartment on the boat, but readilly able to learn.
 

Don S

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Re: Newbie here

Just so we know what we are dealing with, do you have the Full model number of the engine, also look at the port side of the outdrive. There should be a tag with the ID number of the drive.
 

Don S

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Re: Newbie here

You have a 1995 5.0L Ford engine with an SX outdrive from a '94 5.7 Chevy. The drive probably failed at some point and was replaced with that drive. The gear ratio is slightly different, the 5.0 Ford and the Chevy 4.3 used a 1.66 gear ratio, while the 5.7 used a 1.60.
Not that big of a deal really.

Do you know how long it's been since the engine has run?
If you don't see any core plugs (aka freeze plugs) popped out or any cracks in the block or manifolds, You may luck out, lets just find out how long it's been setting before trying to turn the engine. That way if nothing is wrong with it, you don't mess it up by cranking it over too soon.
 

Yankee817299

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Mar 17, 2011
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Re: Newbie here

The last registration sticker is dated 2006, so I'm sure it hasn't run since that summer. I looked over the block and did not see anything out of the ordinary. I did not look over the manifold very well, and I am thinking that is where the freeze plugs are? I have not pulled the plugs or anything, other than the air filter. It is aluminum finned, looked fairly clean also. There is one spot of dark fluid, about the size of a nickle on top of the engine, intake I think, right beside the oil fill tube. Also, there is a copper speckled 3/8" poly tube that connects somewhere behind the carb that looks like it is coming from the power steering pump maybe. Anyways, where this connects behind the carb it is accumulating a drip of fluid on the connection. Feels somewhat like oil, but not as slick?
 

mkast

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Re: Newbie here

Time for some pictures to be posted.
 

Don S

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Re: Newbie here

Not really anything noticable. What I would do is pull the distributor out of the engine, and pull the sparkplugs. Don't turn the engine yet.
Now, install an oil pump priming tool into the distributor opening. Run it with a drill till you get oil pressure, then turn the engine by hand while running the primer.
Then, get it back up to #1 TDC on the compression stroke, reinstall the distributor and fire it up using an outboard tank for fresh gas. May have to squirt some down the carb to get it started. May even have to rebuild the carb to get it running. Even if you have to be above idle rpm, you need to get it running so you can look for external leaks. If nothing is leaking externally and the engine runs without loud knocking, even if it runs rough, it's still might be ok.
Now, pull the plugs and do a compression test. If it's ok, time to replumb the cooling system, isolate the manifolds from the block and pressure check the block to about 15 psi. if it holds pressure, you may have a good engine.
 

Yankee817299

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Mar 17, 2011
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Re: Newbie here

Ok, sounds like I have a starting point. I did some searching and found that I can obtain the oil pump prime tool at Auto Zone. Turning the pump prior to cranking the engine sounds like good pm for as long as this engine has been sitting. Before I start doing anything though, I would like to get a thorough repair manual and look through it and get an idea on how this engine works. I understand the 4 stroke part mosty, but what I am going to need to learn, is the water cooling system of the engine and stern. Is there any links that anyone could recommend, and what would be the best manual set to start searching for. I looked over in E-bay, but to be honest, I am not sure what I am looking for? I found the OMC's for the 5.0, and I think I want the FL, but again, I am not sure.
 

Don S

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Re: Newbie here

Before I start doing anything though, I would like to get a thorough repair manual and look through it and get an idea on how this engine works.

That's not a problem, here's a link to the OEM manuals for the Volvo version. Same exact setups, this was during the joint venture between Volvo and OMC.

http://www.4shared.com/dir/14518519/7686effe/HUsharing.html

Not really great pictures, but should be enough to give you a good idea what you have.
 

Yankee817299

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Mar 17, 2011
Messages
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Re: Newbie here

I looked through the manuals and I feel pretty confident that I can handle the task at hand, just a couple of questions. First, can anyone tell me what size the oil pump primer tool would be. At the auto parts store I have 2 options, either 3/16 or 5/16. Also, I would like someone to confirm that I read the manuals right. That is on a Cobra 5.0FL the distributor turns counterclockwise? And lastly, using a remote gas tank to start the engine. Can I get some ideas of what would work best. Just buy an outboard motor gas tank, or can I re-design a poly gas jug to work?

Again, thanks to all the replies and advice.
 
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