New VRO Fails No Oil Alarm Test

[Terrapin]

I replaced the VRO on my 1986 Johnson 150 (J150TXCDC) with new OEM P/N 5007423. This is a 4 wire VRO. However, when performing the VRO alarm test by disconnecting the oil inlet hose, I do not obtain a No Oil Alarm.

Note: I have 75:1 premix in my tank and ran the boat in neutral at idle for at least 20 minutes without the oil line attached. Still no “No Oil” alarm.

I also installed a new VRO tank kit (P/N 5008617) given the age of the current tank. It is important to note that to my surprise this tank kit does not provide the “low oil” alarm beep at 20 second intervals like my original. Apparently, this is the new version that superseded the older version. This newer version provides a continuous alarm for “Low oil”. I confirmed the “Low Oil” alarm works by turning the key on without oil in the tank. I added oil and when I reached a certain level the alarm stopped. “Low Oil” alarm function confirmed.

After failing the “NO Oil” VRO test, I confirmed the alarm horn function by disconnecting it and supplying 12 volts to the horn. I then reconnected the two purple wires to the positive (+) tab and the tan wire to the negative (-) tab on the horn. The horn does have a black wire coming out of the horn, but the ring tongue on the end of the black wire was never connected to anything to the best of my knowledge. Also, the 1986 Johnson 150 schematic I found does not show a black wire connection.

I tested the alarm by grounding each of the temperature sensor tan wires to the engine block. “Over Heat” alarm function confirmed.

I disconnected the oil tank "Low Oil" wires under the engine cover, jumped the engine side connector, and confirmed the “low oil” alarm for the second time.

I did not test the fuel restriction alarm because I performed my troubleshooting out of the water.

Alarm Check on Key Turn: I did notice I now do not obtain an alarm “chirp” upon turning the key. Prior to this I have historically received an alarm “chirp” on key turn. However, I will state that for some reason I did not always obtain a “chirp” on key start for some reason. Now, NO "chirp" on key turn after trying many times.

Any thoughts as to next steps? Why won’t the “NO Oil” alarm sound with the oil line removed? Do I now have an electrical issue given NO “chirp” at key turn? Did the new revision oil tank sender create an electrical problem? Is my new OEM VRO faulty?

Thanks for reading this lengthy post, I want to provide as much known information as possible.

 

[Chris1956]

OK, I think your motor your motor originally had a 3 wire VRO pump. I do not think it had the no oil function. So, does your alarm/ system check tach have provision for the no oil alarm, from the new 4 wire VRO pump? Have you added a wire to your harness to effect the new alarm? The tan/yellow wire would be the alarm wire, that grounds when there is no oil detected at the VRO pump. The other wires are black for ground, purple for power and grey for tachometer signal.

On another subject, why did you choose a 75::1 fuel mix? I never saw any motor recommended for that mix. I would recommend 50::1 until you get this sorted.

 

[dingbat]

The tank does not control beep codes.
Simple open or closed switch to tell the controller that a failure has occurred.

No "chirp" is a problem in the control circuit. That combined with your new float "warning" would suggest something is wired wrong or backwards

How long did you wait after you disconnected the oil Line?
Can take quite a bit of time before you actually run out of oil and the alarm sounds.

 

[Terrapin]

OK, I think your motor your motor originally had a 3 wire VRO pump. I do not think it had the no oil function. So, does your alarm/ system check tach have provision for the no oil alarm, from the new 4 wire VRO pump? Have you added a wire to your harness to effect the new alarm? The tan/yellow wire would be the alarm wire, that grounds when there is no oil detected at the VRO pump. The other wires are black for ground, purple for power and grey for tachometer signal.

On another subject, why did you choose a 75::1 fuel mix? I never saw any motor recommended for that mix. I would recommend 50::1 until you get this sorted.

I have owned the boat/motor since 2003 and it has always been a 4 wire VRO set up in my ownership. I thought I read somewhere that 1986 may have been the first year for the four wire VRO on the 150 V6. I replaced the VRO in 2008 due to a fuel diaphragm crack (upon autopsy). Recently after an engine rebuild this spring, I got a "NO Oil" alarm after running at WOT on two or three occasions. I was unable to reliably reproduce so I am replacing the VRO after 13 years of service.

This is not an OMC system check motor/tachometer/gauge year and it was never upgraded to System Check with a new wiring harness and the lights to discern the horn alarms.

Previous to this recent occurrence, all alarms were known functional. However, after my failure to get a "No Oil" alarm, I noticed I couldn't get my alarm "chirp" at key turn.

 

[Terrapin]

The tank does not control beep codes.
Simple open or closed switch to tell the controller that a failure has occurred.

No "chirp" is a problem in the control circuit. That combined with your new float "warning" would suggest something is wired wrong or backwards

How long did you wait after you disconnected the oil Line?
Can take quite a bit of time before you actually run out of oil and the alarm sounds.

Thanks for engaging my post.

This new tank and float only seems to take the tan wire to ground when the float drops low in the tank. A solid alarm condition occurs for "Low Oil". Previously, my original tank, upon a "low Oil" condition, would produce a chirp every 20 to 30 seconds. This old tank did have circuitry within the sender to produce a 20 second interval chirp. This was nice in that you knew it was low oil and not an over heat condition or fuel constriction condition.

I didn't modify any of the wiring other than to remove the TE Connectivity Deutch connectors and splice the old Amphenol connectors in place ensuring tan to tan.

Pulling the oil line from the VRO, I ran on idle for 15 to 20 minutes and did not trigger the alarm. Reattaching the oil line, the pump pulled oil out of the reservoir. I had all air out of the tank and oil topped to the fill cap level and watched the level drop over a longer run time.

 

[dingbat]

Thanks for engaging my post.

This new tank and float only seems to take the tan wire to ground when the float drops low in the tank. A solid alarm condition occurs for "Low Oil". Previously, my original tank, upon a "low Oil" condition, would produce a chirp every 20 to 30 seconds. This old tank did have circuitry within the sender Jto produce a 20 second interval chirp. This was nice in that you knew it was low oil and not an over heat condition or fuel constriction condition.

I’m running the 3 gallon tank (5008613) with System Check.
Have separate alarms for all 4 conditions.

May want to check into Audible warning horn adaptor #176458 and #176345 and or #176349 wiring adaptor kits.

 

[Terrapin]

I’m running the 3 gallon tank (5008613) with System Check.
Have separate alarms for all 4 conditions.

May want to check into Audible warning horn adaptor #176458 and #176345 and or #176349 wiring adaptor kits.

Thanks for the information on upgrading my 1986 system to System Check gauge lights. I will keep this in mind for future reference.

My problem remains as described in my posts above.

 

[Terrapin]

My alarm horn works continuously when a tan overheat sensor wire is grounded, or when removed from the circuit and 12 volts is applied. Is there internal circuitry associated with the "chirp" at key turn? Could this internal circuitry be faulty?

What causes a quick "chirp" versus a "continuous on" alarm condition?

 

[racerone]

Yes there is a wee circuit in the buzzer itself.

 

[Terrapin]

Yes there is a wee circuit in the buzzer itself.

Interesting, does anyone know how this internal circuit can be tested?

 

[racerone]

When it sees 12 volts it beeps and turns off.------If it does not , it is defective.-----If it keeps beeping it is defective.

 

[Terrapin]

So to confirm your test procedure:

1. Disconnect and remove alarm horn from electrical system
2. Connect 12 volt negative to alarm horn tab nearest the black wire that comes out of the horn
3. Connect 12 volt positive lead to the other tab (where purple wires were connected)
4. Horn should then beep and turn off. If it does not turn off it is defective. If it keeps beeping it is defective.

Correct?

 

[Terrapin]

So to confirm your test procedure:

1. Disconnect and remove alarm horn from electrical system
2. Connect 12 volt negative to alarm horn tab nearest the black wire that comes out of the horn
3. Connect 12 volt positive lead to the other tab (where purple wires were connected)
4. Horn should then beep and turn off. If it does not turn off it is defective. If it keeps beeping it is defective.

Correct?

After investigating and testing this further, the above test procedure is not correct. The correct out of circuit test procedure is as follows:

1. Disconnect and remove alarm horn from electrical system
2. Connect the Black Ground wire from the horn to the negative terminal of a 12-volt battery. Use alligator clips to maintain connection.
3. To test the horn for the initial key switch chirp (which confirms alarm horn is working): Connect the tab terminal that is farthest away from the Black wire (and typically connected to the in circuit Purple wire) to the positive terminal of the battery. When doing so you should hear the desired brief "Chirp". Use alligator clips to maintain connection. Note: Removing this connection and reapplying it will enable you to confirm the "Chirp".
4. To simulate an alarm condition: Connect the tab terminal closest to the Black wire (and typically connected to the in-circuit Tan wire) to the negative terminal of the 12-volt battery. A steady alarm condition should occur while this connection is maintained. Disconnecting should stop the alarm.

Originally, an electrical wiring diagram for my 1986 Johnson 150 shows only a two wire horn. When replacing the two wire horn with the latest BRP P/N 0585992 Horn, the black ground wire must be connected to ground in the boat. The instructions suggest the M terminal of the ignition switch.

 

[flyingscott]

Is that an actual BRP pump or Chinese knockoff?

 

[Terrapin]

Definitely an OEM VRO pump, 4 wire, (P/N 5007423). After a complete engine rebuild last year, with the help of this forum, I'm not going to go with a "POS" knock off. In the near future I'll run a test of all alarm functions and the VRO alarm test with a 50:1 mix in the fuel tank.