New to this need help

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HawkDriver

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Joined
Feb 22, 2005
Messages
20
Re: New to this need help

Alright, the sun is out and I'm off to the lake.<br /><br />Compression test was good. <br />P S<br />90 95<br />90 95<br />90 90<br /><br />As for the VRO, I'm not even sure there is one installed. I have checked for the box with the black fuel outlet fitting with no wiring as described in the FAQ section. But I'm still not sure exactly where it is supposed to be. At this point, other than the thing with the red valve switch thingy, I "think" I know what all the big parts are on the engine now and I don't see the VRO. <br /><br />There is a fitting that is on the housing of the engine cover area that has 2 nipples, one is for the fuel to come inside the engine area from the bulb and the other one has nothing hooked up to it. Is that where the oil is supposed to come from a remote oil tank for the VRO? There is only the fuel line coming from the fuel tank and no where else in the transom area. There is a hole in the transom area that looks like it may have been where this hose was routed at one time. The guy I bought it from didn't mention anything about the VRO and just said that I should always run a 50:1 mix and I'd be good.<br /><br />I think I have located the recirculation valves. Are they the little elbows that are under each bowl with hoses that are routed back to the fuel pumps? It does have aluminum bowls. I tried to pry the elbows off to check em out and they seem to be on there pretty good. If that's them I'll try to get em off and do the syringe method.<br /><br />Thanks guys.
 
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HawkDriver

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Joined
Feb 22, 2005
Messages
20
Re: New to this need help

Now that I think about it, those elbows are probably what fills the bowls from the pump DOH!!!<br /><br />I'll continue to look on the bottom of the manifold for the recirc valves.
 
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HawkDriver

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Feb 22, 2005
Messages
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Re: New to this need help

Ok, I made it to the lake.<br /><br />I ran it at idle with the airbox cover off and watched closely. I did not notice any sputtering or fuel bursting the one time that I let it die. I tried the dollar bill trick with a piece of paper and the upper 2 seemed to suck pretty good with no sign of blowback, however the lower one seemed like it might be questionable. It wasn't really bad and it was hard to tell. <br /><br />It seemed to run a little better when the motor was trimmed up but it still kind of shakes around and runs rough whether up or down. One thing I noticed was that it sure smokes alot when I start it up after letting it sit at a fishing hole for about 10-25 minutes. Then it runs pretty "clean" afterwards.<br /><br />After I find the recirc valves and check those I am thinking of taking the carbs off to check the reeds. Does anyone have a pic of these recirc valves? I have looked all over mine and searched the internet and forum and havn't seen a good pic of these. I only see one hose that comes from the bottom of the manifold and it goes right up to the airbox.<br /><br />Any other suggestions? How bout that VRO?<br /><br />The saga continues...
 
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Basscat 1

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Feb 11, 2005
Messages
444
Re: New to this need help

Did you say that you ordered a manual? That will help you a lot.<br />If you didnt notice any fuel bursting in the carbs when it dies, then that is a good sign that the the rings on the crank are probably ok.<br />I just installed a set of Boyesen reeds on my boat, but I havent ran it yet, I am still waiting on a intake gasket. I also have to change my idle fuel jets as per the instructions with the reeds. If you are going pull the intake and visually inspect reeds, you may want to go ahead and change them.<br />Check this site out, it changed my mind. <br /> http://www.boyesen.com/article/articleview/25/1/30
 
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HawkDriver

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Joined
Feb 22, 2005
Messages
20
Re: New to this need help

I do have a manual on the way. Basscat let us know how those new reeds run, and good luck with those jets and stuff. Here is a link to the pics that I have taken to help identify some of the things I have been writing about.<br /><br /> http://client.webshots.com/album/285572081vudCTs <br /><br />First off, what is this thingy?<br /> http://client.webshots.com/photo/285572081/285578312qcbqzV <br /><br />Now here is a shot of the left side, do you see any VRO on here? <br /><br /> http://client.webshots.com/photo/285572081/285578568eDOpXS <br /><br />How about on this side? <br /><br /> http://client.webshots.com/photo/285572081/285578808ZgkAtk <br /><br />And lastly, could someone point out where these recirculation valves are supposed to be in this picture? <br /><br />
285578199NEJPBj_ph.jpg
<br /><br /> http://client.webshots.com/photo/285572081/285578199NEJPBj <br /><br />Boy, I sure have dragged this post out. But I'm hoping the pictures might make it a bit more interesting. Thanks fellas.
 
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Basscat 1

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Feb 11, 2005
Messages
444
Re: New to this need help

Hawk, Im no expert by no means on these motors, I'm like you just learning 2-cycle principles. <br />Your motor is a lot newer than mine. <br />The two pumps on the left side are your fuel pumps. They operate off a pulse from the crankcase. <br />My guess is that may be an electric choke solenoid in the one picture. Do you have an electric choke switch?<br />One other question. Do you mix your gas and oil, or do you add 2-cycle oil in a seperate tank?
 
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HawkDriver

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Joined
Feb 22, 2005
Messages
20
Re: New to this need help

Thanks Basscat. Ya, I got it that those are the fuel pumps. I think you are right, yes the keyswitch has a push-in choke feature, that's probably it. As I had stated earlier, there is no remote oil tank ;) , so yes I have been premixing oil and fuel. Hey you may not be an expert but YOU are helping me out, so thanks a bunch. I have sent an email to the guy I bought it from and he will probably be able to help me out quite a bit too. Thanks everyone for your help.
 
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ob

Admiral
Joined
Aug 16, 2002
Messages
6,992
Re: New to this need help

The unit that you are refering to with the red lever is the electric solenoid fuel primer.When key is pushed in ,it allows fuel to flow past carburetrors into the intake manifold for cold startup.The red lever is there in case the solenoid portion fails.It allows you to manually open the fuel primer valve by flipping this lever at 90 dgrees to the body of the solenoid.The pic shows it to be in the normal 'run' position.This is where you would want to return it after a manual startup.<br /><br />Note :it will only pass fuel after the fuel line primer bulb has been pumped up supplying its source.
 
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Basscat 1

Chief Petty Officer
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Feb 11, 2005
Messages
444
Re: New to this need help

Stick around on this board and these guys will help you out a lot.<br />My book shows the VRO to mounted on the left side of the motor, just below the starter. Its very easy to identify by the photograph in the book. I think your VRO must have been removed and disabled. I am guessing it bolted or attached in the hole in the picture you labeled as "abandoned".<br />It should have had a seperate oil storage tank for the two-cycle oil.
 
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jy118lfd

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 18, 2004
Messages
497
Re: New to this need help

Hawk in your last pic you can see one of the recirc valves it is on the bottem left where the small black hose goes. There are six of them sell for about 10 bucks a piece from dealer. It is much easier to take off the carbs and you will see all of them. Check them like was said earlier with alcohol. I use seafoam. And a syringe with a clear piece of hose. The alcohol or seafoam will flow when you pull on the syringe and should not when you push. They will cause a myriad of problems at idle.
 
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Basscat 1

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Feb 11, 2005
Messages
444
Re: New to this need help

Also do away with those zip ties and use all hose clamps.
 
angus63

angus63

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Joined
May 20, 2002
Messages
3,726
Re: New to this need help

Basscat<br />Gotta disagree. The OMC zip clamps work the best in my opinion. The large cross-section of hose clamps does not allow enough squeeze on the hose without breakin' all of those thin plastic barbed nipples. Hose clamps equal leaks and broken nipples (ouch), I would toss the hose clamps and get the OMC fuel clamps. Just my experience....
 
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Basscat 1

Chief Petty Officer
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Feb 11, 2005
Messages
444
Re: New to this need help

To each his own. I have read on here several times where replacing the the zip clamps for regular fuel line clamps fixed many idle problems. Just be careful not to over tighted them.
 
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HawkDriver

Cadet
Joined
Feb 22, 2005
Messages
20
Re: New to this need help

ob, thanks for that very informative lesson on my elec fuel primer solenoid. :D <br /><br />So I gather that these little brass nipple fitting things are the recirc valves. I was suspicious that that might be them. After all they are the only other hoses coming out of the fuel area on the carbs :rolleyes: . I'll check em out next.<br /><br />I have already replaced some of the zipties with clamps, thanks for the opinions. :) <br /><br />Thanks again.
 
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