New to the Starcraft Club

[ShoestringMariner]

Hey all, I’ve been longing for a Starcraft Super Sport and I finally dragged one home. I drove too far to get it and probably paid too much for it, especially considering the length of the drive and the issues I decided to accept in the purchase. (Soft spots in floors, rotten transom and pitting in the exterior transom skin and a bit on the spray rails near the transom. It looked great in photos but mucho tired when I got there. The whole way home I said to myself that I will never go outside of a 1.5 hour radius. But it is what it is and it’s here now.

So from here I’m going to leave everything the way it is and determine whether to turn it out and search for a better candidate or to jump in do a full resto. On the plus side, the wife quite likes it and is behind the restoration. The motor seems to run well and has good compression (130psi across the board - I think that’s ok for a 70’s merc?) it appears all original.

And my my plans with this likely differ than most. I like classic stuff. I was thinking of restoring it aesthetically as much as possible. I don’t know if I can press out the hull bruises or not but was going to try. I was thinking of replacing the sleeper seats with new white ones, but have those lift out exposing pedestal swivel bases beneath for hardcore fishing trips. I’d also fashion a drop in, modular fishing deck for the bow section. This way we can do classic family cruising or hardcore fishing.

I’ll post pictures soon, hopefully my purchase was not all for not with the amount of work it’s going to need. Your opinions are welcomed

 

[ShoestringMariner]

[No message]

 

[Doh]

Same era as one I grew up with. It was a 76 18 SS Orange and white, with a 1979 115 V4 Johnson. It went pretty good, handled waters pretty good (it had tabs), but it suffered from Rib Cracks. The ribs didn't run far enough out and bottom cracked at the end of the ribs. I can't remember if it was 4 or 5 of them, but it was both sides right below the Helm Station.

A buddy of mine did a Back Flip off of the 115 while cruising. No wonder my Dad drank.

Good luck with the boat! It did ride 100% better than my Uncle's 19' Holiday, but not near my other Uncle's 22' V5 Holiday.

 

[ShoestringMariner]

Thanks, good to know about rib cracks, I will have to be sure to check for those

 

[Watermann]

:welcome: aboard,

Looks like a 16' SS, what year it is will determine if it has rib end braces that pretty much eliminate the cracking issue of the rib ends and spray rail.

Yeah traveling to get what you want can be a pain but sometimes it's the only way. I had quite the journey to get my SS but the road trip adds to the adventure.

Looks like you have a place to work on the boat, that right there is half the battle.

 

[ShoestringMariner]

:welcome: aboard,

Looks like a 16' SS, what year it is will determine if it has rib end braces that pretty much eliminate the cracking issue of the rib ends and spray rail.

Yeah traveling to get what you want can be a pain but sometimes it's the only way. I had quite the journey to get my SS but the road trip adds to the adventure.

Looks like you have a place to work on the boat, that right there is half the battle.

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I wish that was my space but that was the sellers photo. It is a 16’ SS I’m assuming it’s a 75 from a 75 in HIN. There’s no date that I can find anywhere...how can I find out?

I wish I could say I enjoyed the journey but it rained all the way there, during and on the way back. Nasty, just above freezing. Needless to say, everything there was rushed. Inspection, loading onto the trailer and the stops along the way to fix straps, long weekend traffic etc.

But yes, normally I’d enjoy the trip.

I’m still not totally sure it was worth the drive. Ontario Supersports are usually either overpriced, beat to hell and bastardized or gone in 60 seconds for the real good deals. This came with good covers and no basdardizations.

but speaking of Ontario boats; the 6 digit registration # that this boat allegedly came with (has been repainted) is not in keeping with typical Ontario numbers. (Or at least those that I have seen) I’m now wondering if this is actually an out of province boat. Now I’m sort of wondering if the heavy pitting could have been from salt water.

 

[Watermann]

Post a pic of the pitting, it's not just saltwater that pits the AL.

 

[GA_Boater]

The last two digits are the year. Here is a HIN decoder, just plug your HIN number in - https://www.hindecoder.com/

Pitting happens in fresh water too. Especially if a PO used pressure treated wood in her. There should be a special place if they used PT in a tin boat.

Welcome to the Starmada.

 

[ShoestringMariner]

Post a pic of the pitting, it's not just saltwater that pits the AL.

This is consistent all along the back just above the rivet line (assuming waterline)

DITCH IT AND RUN???

 

[ShoestringMariner]

The last two digits are the year. Here is a HIN decoder, just plug your HIN number in - https://www.hindecoder.com/

Pitting happens in fresh water too. Especially if a PO used pressure treated wood in her. There should be a special place if they used PT in a tin boat.

Welcome to the Starmada.

Thanks for the link. It didn’t come up with anything until I dropped the last 2 digits which are separated by a dash. It’s a 1975 model...so no brace end caps (?)

I think the transom and floors are all original. The gunwales are not trimmed back under the caps and the floor has a period correct looking covering. Splash well rivets are not changed.

 

[Watermann]

This is consistent all along the back just above the rivet line (assuming waterline)

DITCH IT AND RUN???

Oh man is it only on the transom, hows the sides and bottom look?

Not sure I've seen localized corrosion on the outside of the transom like that, inside yeah almost all boats have some.

 

[ShoestringMariner]

The majority of it is on the transoms skin. There is a little bit on and slightly above the spray rail for the 1st foot or two. Worse on the right side than the left.

Worst case scenario, I know I can replace the aluminum transom. I’m a metal man by trade. Prefer not to of course...but the sides/spray rail is a no for replacement.

Heres a few more pics

And I admit it. I was an idiot for not leaving this boat there. I got caught up on the “I want it, I can fix it and not coming home empty handed” thing....DUMBA**

 

[GA_Boater]

What does the bottom look like?

I think when you yank the deck and transom wood that more pitting inside will be found. Really hope I'm wrong.

 

[ShoestringMariner]

What does the bottom look like?

I think when you yank the deck and transom wood that more pitting inside will be found. Really hope I'm wrong.

Not as much as I do. I don’t think I can get much for it by parting it out

Bottom looks good actually

 

[GA_Boater]

When you start tearing into her, check that no one used the hull to ground accessories. Aluminum boat owners do easy wiring by using the hull as a ground buss and electrical current paths through the hull can cause corrosion.

You will have to put some water in the bare hull for a pinhole test. Some of the pits look deep, but repairable.

 

[Watermann]

Yeah you're this far, start the tear down and see what you have on the inside with a clean slate and we'll have to go from there. I've seen worse repaired on the inside but this a first on the outside of the transom skin.

 

[ShoestringMariner]

Thanks Guys. Before I do anything, I’m going to wait until the hull transfer goes through. Also too, I’m going to run it as is. Small lakes here. Troller will get me to shore if the motor pukes. If it leaks bad I will put an auto bilge in it. I know the transom has issues so I won’t beat on it

If the motor proves reliable, I will tear it down in the fall and hit the rebuild hard unless another better boat comes up.

 

[ShoestringMariner]

When you start tearing into her, check that no one used the hull to ground accessories. Aluminum boat owners do easy wiring by using the hull as a ground buss and electrical current paths through the hull can cause corrosion.

You will have to put some water in the bare hull for a pinhole test. Some of the pits look deep, but repairable.

Thanks, can’t find any current grounds.

How is much water can I safely put ito a hull without casing damage (while boat on a trailer)

 

[Watermann]

I would take it to the ramp and put the boat in and see if she takes on water.

 

[classiccat]

The majority of it is on the transoms skin. There is a little bit on and slightly above the spray rail for the 1st foot or two. Worse on the right side than the left.

Worst case scenario, I know I can replace the aluminum transom. I’m a metal man by trade. Prefer not to of course...but the sides/spray rail is a no for replacement.

Heres a few more pics

And I admit it. I was an idiot for not leaving this boat there. I got caught up on the “I want it, I can fix it and not coming home empty handed” thing....DUMBA**

Welcome!

Don't beat yourself up over it!

Many of us were in your exact position.

I drove 3+ hrs for an SS that barely qualified as a floating vessel.

These rotten/cracked tubs are salvageable in most cases....with the guidance (and emotional support) of the Starmada!