New to me Colbalt, Overheating only while pulling tube or ski

[muc]

Do you have “silent choice“ or some other switchable exhaust?
Do you have a depth transducer and where is it installed?
When you replaced the thermostat did you make sure the bypass passage was clear, poke a coat hanger or some stiff mechanics wire thru?
Your engine has a flush fitting, have you checked the oring and made sure the cap is tight?

 

[1000 Islands]

I started life as a marine mechanic in SW Florida. Any restriction caused by salt water corrosion is a bad thing. Make sure that your main thermostat housing and all of its ports are clean. Real clean. It doesn't take much, and since it happens under load, that indicates insufficient cooling capacity, much like a car that idles fine but runs hot going down the road.

I just bought a Rinda scan tool a couple of weeks ago. I also debated the PC-based software version, or the little hand held device. The only supposed difference is that the PC-based software has the ability to record and playback data. In 35 years in the auto repair industry, I've used dozens of scans tools, OEM and A/M, and only recorded a handful of times. The other difference is that you need a laptop. I like the portability of the Rinda Tech Mate Pro, and keep it on board in the glove box. While I don't know what the official factory VP scan tool is or how many more features it has (if any), the Tech Mate Pro is decent.

Some of the codes you reported from the past I have as well. I'm not sure I would read too much into them. Focus on your issue, maybe the rest is just noise?

 

[zaayer]

Do you have “silent choice“ or some other switchable exhaust?
Do you have a depth transducer and where is it installed?
When you replaced the thermostat did you make sure the bypass passage was clear, poke a coat hanger or some stiff mechanics wire thru?
Your engine has a flush fitting, have you checked the oring and made sure the cap is tight?

I do not have a switchable exhaust. My transducer is located below the engine in the bildge. I did not spend much time to clean the thermostat housing and I did not check the bypass. I will check that hopefully tomorrow. I did look at flush cap for suction. It seems to be tight.

 

[zaayer]

I started life as a marine mechanic in SW Florida. Any restriction caused by salt water corrosion is a bad thing. Make sure that your main thermostat housing and all of its ports are clean. Real clean. It doesn't take much, and since it happens under load, that indicates insufficient cooling capacity, much like a car that idles fine but runs hot going down the road.

I just bought a Rinda scan tool a couple of weeks ago. I also debated the PC-based software version, or the little hand held device. The only supposed difference is that the PC-based software has the ability to record and playback data. In 35 years in the auto repair industry, I've used dozens of scans tools, OEM and A/M, and only recorded a handful of times. The other difference is that you need a laptop. I like the portability of the Rinda Tech Mate Pro, and keep it on board in the glove box. While I don't know what the official factory VP scan tool is or how many more features it has (if any), the Tech Mate Pro is decent.

Some of the codes you reported from the past I have as well. I'm not sure I would read too much into them. Focus on your issue, maybe the rest is just noise?

I will pull the housing off again and give it a glood clean.
I think I will order the tech mate pro. Thanks for the advice.

 

[muc]

I suggest that you remove the flush cap and inspect the oring and rubber washer. Tight only matters if the seals are in good shape. Notice that Volvo made this cap with wrench flats, this is their clue to you. A lot like why battery connections are now regular nuts instead of wing nuts. People saw wing nuts and thought hand tight is good enough, caused all sorts of problems. If something is designed to accept a wrench, should probably use a wrench.

Does the transducer stick out past the bottom of the boat more than 1/2”?

Right now I’m trying to walk you through the visual inspection. This is always the first step in troubleshooting. The next step is the clear hose test.

Vodia 4 is what Volvo recommends for dealers but with this package techmate/Diacom will work just fine. I used both and if I could only have one, it would be Diacom. The ability to graph and record can be critical with some problems. Also it allows you to share the recordings with someone who might be more knowledgeable. But any scan tool is better than no scan tool.

 

[zaayer]

I suggest that you remove the flush cap and inspect the oring and rubber washer. Tight only matters if the seals are in good shape. Notice that Volvo made this cap with wrench flats, this is their clue to you. A lot like why battery connections are now regular nuts instead of wing nuts. People saw wing nuts and thought hand tight is good enough, caused all sorts of problems. If something is designed to accept a wrench, should probably use a wrench.

Does the transducer stick out past the bottom of the boat more than 1/2”?

Right now I’m trying to walk you through the visual inspection. This is always the first step in troubleshooting. The next step is the clear hose test.

Vodia 4 is what Volvo recommends for dealers but with this package techmate/Diacom will work just fine. I used both and if I could only have one, it would be Diacom. The ability to graph and record can be critical with some problems. Also it allows you to share the recordings with someone who might be more knowledgeable. But any scan tool is better than no scan tool.

Hi Muc. Thank you for you help. I checked the flush cap and the washer looks to be in good shape. It was also well beyond hand tight.
I took off the thermostat housing and gave it a good cleaning. I used some rust remover and cleaned any rust out. I also used a wire brush. I paid special attention to the passage that led from the intake on the housing to the portion of the housing that allows water to flow to the engine water pump. Is the the passage you call the bypass passage. If so it is quite large, maybe 1/4" or larger.
The transducer is a rubber disk that is flush with the bottom of the boat. If it sticks out it would be less than 1/32".

 

[zaayer]

Thought of something else. The VP outdrive has a fitting on the top where the intake hose connects. If it gets corroded or slightly clogged, the water is reduced

I will check this out in the morning. I am not quite sure where it is, but I imagine I can find it.

 

[zaayer]

Thought of something else. The VP outdrive has a fitting on the top where the intake hose connects. If it gets corroded or slightly clogged, the water is reduced

You were on the right track. The hose connecting the water intake to the outdrive is off. I think it may be broken. Do I need to take the outdrive off to get to this or is there another way?

 

[alldodge]

Sucking some air
Hey @Scott Danforth what do you think?

 

[zaayer]

I think that this part broke on me. Volvo transom shield
It looks like I need to remove the outdrive to replace this. Does anyone have experience doing this?

 

[Scott Danforth]

You were on the right track. The hose connecting the water intake to the outdrive is off. I think it may be broken. Do I need to take the outdrive off to get to this or is there another way?

You should be pulling the drive every year for maintenance.

Pull the drive and replace the fitting

Sucking some air
Hey @Scott Danforth what do you think?

 

[zaayer]

I believe that it is part #8 that is broken. Does anyone have any idea what I need to remove to get to it? I can't find much on the interwebs about it.

 

[Scott Danforth]

You climb in the bilge and access it if you have room

If you do not have room, pull the motor?

 

[zaayer]

I was wrong! That is not the correct part. The part I am looking for is part 9. Thank you everyone for all your help. I will update this when I get it fixed.

 

[alldodge]

Can get yo that part after removing drive

 

[zaayer]

I think so. Now I just need to get the correct tools to take the outdrive off. I had everything I needed for my old MerCruiser now it's time for new tools.
I was thinking about 3D printing something to go inside of that fitting so that perhaps it would stay connected. If I could print it so that the outside diameter fits inside the fitting and glue it I think it would hold until I can get the part. I'm getting ready to go on a lake trip with my family on saturday. I won't be able to get the part in time to fix it. Do you think I should attempt that, or should I just run it as is? It stays cool while idling or cruising. It just gets a little hot when I tow people.

 

[alldodge]

No special tools needed, remove the six nuts and pull the drive

I only mention to remove the drive because it will make it easier to replace parts with the drive being out. You might be able to replace the part without removing the drive. Raise full up and see if there is room

I don't know what the threads are on the part but they should be metric. Its threaded in one side and some kind of barb on the other. Would not go out an expect it to hold. It might hold but may fail the first trip and then your toast

Get the fitting out and see if it can be found at the hard ware store. Use plastic fittings, this way if threads are not correct, the fitting can be mostly sealed by Teflon tape or pipe dope. If its cross threadeed a bit it will not hurt the bell housing

 

[1000 Islands]

Nice find!