New to Forum/ Chrysler Conqueror 135 Project

[alldodge]

Won't hurt to crank motor over with lower off.

 

[ExplorGM]

Great! Thanks.

 

[ExplorGM]

Finally put a new starter in and ran a cold compression test. #1-128 #2-128 #3-132 #4-132.
New impeller came from Franzmarine along with a new gasket so hopefully putting in the lower unit tomorrow. More work on the fuel system today/tomorrow and then hopefully a warm compression test with slightly higher numbers?
Thanks for everyone's help.

 

[ExplorGM]

According to my SELOC Chrysler manual, depending upon which engine it actually is, low range on a brand new motor ranges from 130-155 and high range from 155-165. So a 1966 to 1975 105hp motor would have a compresion range from 130-140 and on the opposite end a 1969-1977 135hp motor would be 155-165 (new). These are warm test numbers.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Compression on a Chrysler//Force
The comp values won't change much over time.
My 1988 85hp twins had the same readings at 20+ years old that they did when new.
155# +/- 5#
The main difference in readings is usually the gauge being used.
To get the best results?? Use the BEST equipment.

Clymer and Seloc are poor reference manuals.
Get a factory manual if you want the right answers.

2002 225EFI Mercury. Was selling it.
The customer brought his NEW Harbor Freight Compression Tester.
My add stated that all 6 cyl. had readings of 160-165#
His first 2 readings were 85#
He started complaining that the motor was junk as the readings were low.

I knew what the problem was.
I took my $160 comp tester out and said try this.
He redid the cyl. and all 6 were within 5# of each other 160#

His crappy tools gave the wrong results.
He returned the tester to HF.

AND, warm or cold the readings won't vary that much.

 

[ExplorGM]

I have a question about the spark plugs. Not knowing which powerhead it really is, (105, 115, 130 with the 70hp lower drive) I looked up the recommended spark plugs in the manual. It shows various sparkplugs according to year. Champion UL18V which is now Champion 824 seems to be the most prevalent one. It comes pre-gapped and is non-adjustable at .048-.053in. The Champion site recommends it for all Force engines.

The plug it currently has in it is a Champion L82C (1 L82C and 3 NGK B7HS for some reason...) which is now Champion 811M. Champion specifically recommends it for Chrysler engines. It is a special order item. This plug can have the gap adjusted and the manual recommends .030in.

What are your thoughts on this? What do you normally use on these types of Chrysler 4cylinder powerheads?

BTW- We did a warm compression test and two cylinders went up from 128 to 130 and two of them went down from 132 to 131.5. New impeller in and a huge improvement in water flow!

Now time to work on the tilt. It powers down but not up.

Which new/modern steering cable would work for this boat? Chrysler Conqueror 17ft... 1974. The old one works but not sure I trust it at speed with the family onboard... Same question for shift/throttle cables?

Thank you!

 

[Nordin]

The pics in previous posts are a bit confusing.
Does it have from factory Motorola Magnapower I CD ignition system or does it have regular auto typ battery ignition system?
In some pics I see the Magnapower CD module with ignition coil mounted but there is an other ignition coil mounted too and it seams to be connected as the HT wire is attaced to it and to the distributer.
If you have the Motorola Magnapower system you should have surface gap style spark plugs such as Champion UL18V, L20V, NGK BUX, BUHW or equivalent brand.
If you have regular auto battery style system you should have regular plugs with electrode such as NGK B6HS, B7HS or equivalent brand.
The CD system need surface gap style plugs and battery style system regular plugs with electrode.
The battery system has problem to spark surface gap style plugs, cause they need much higher voltage to create spark.

 

[ExplorGM]

Thank you Nordin, that makes sense. It does have the Mangapower, but you are correct, it is not hooked up. An automotive style coil is being used. That must be why the previous owner was using the regular electrode style plugs.

 

[Boat Fixit Guy]

Those carbs are off much smaller than a 135, the throat looks more like they're off a 50hp. Doesn't really matter as long as compression is even, will just mean it doesn't reach the highest revs it could. I'm pretty sure the stamped number on the top of the block is the serial that JerryJerry was talking about, which means this is a 79 powerhead. 115 or 135 seems correct, though bore would need to be measured to confirm.