New rebuilt OMC 3.0l Overcooling no matter what!

mvanwy02

Cadet
Joined
Jun 25, 2022
Messages
7
Hello all, need help with a 3.0l OMC sterndrive in a 28' Harris pontoon boat. Long time reader first time poster :) Compression at 120 across the board. Rebuilt engine (bought from retailer not self done), new manifold, new thermostat (3x, one $40 dollar mercruiser model), All new gaskets and seals, of course. Exhaust riser restrictor plate installed today as a last resort and still not warming up. New exhaust flapper with bushings as well. Engine temp at around 120 loaded with ten people and gear. Yes I checked the gauge and wiring, and yes I checked the sending unit. I can touch the exhaust manifold and riser and theyre cold under the carb, warm at best everywhere else. I have tried gaskets from pre-92 and after 92 for the thermostat housing and exhaust riser, as the diagrams I read show different gaskets for those years. The thermostat housing is hotter where the spring end goes in (bottom) than at the top like the thermostat(s) isnt (aren't) opening. My U-shaped hose is very hard, which I read may be exhaust gasses circulating back into the cooling system, however the temperature difference between the upper and lower thermostat housing leads me to believe these thermostats arent opening up for some reason. Sorry about the long post, just trying to give as much info as possible! Im at my wits end with this thing!! Please help!
 

itsathepete

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 23, 2018
Messages
300
Put the thermostat in a pot of water on the stove with a thermometer and check it
 

Bt Doctur

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Aug 29, 2004
Messages
19,292
If the lower circ hose gets very hard with the engine running the water is not exiting the motor
 

itsathepete

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 23, 2018
Messages
300
Is this happening on muffs or in the water? Running on muffs can take a while to get up to temp because there is no load on the engine and some cool water always flowing into the engine.
 

mvanwy02

Cadet
Joined
Jun 25, 2022
Messages
7
Is this happening on muffs or in the water? Running on muffs can take a while to get up to temp because there is no load on the engine and some cool water always flowing into the engine.
Yes it happens on the muffs as well. I attempted to warm up the engine to set initial timing and adjust carburetor. It would not come up to operating temperature on muffs, so it has been at the lake since with the same issues. NOTE: I dont remember much water coming out of the prop area while on muffs, but I'm not sure if it should. Plenty coming out the lower unit areas. Even fully loaded at 3500 rpm in gear (24 mph by gps) no heating up. The top of thermostat housing and manifold / riser are only cool / warm to the touch. I'm ordering a NOS thermostat to see if it opens closer to 160, maybe it will help.
 

itsathepete

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 23, 2018
Messages
300
I don't think the thermostat is the problem, since you verified it opens at 175. Are your hoses routed properly? Is the thermostat housing in good shape? There is a controlled amount of water that always flows to the manifold until the thermostat opens. If the flow is too much, the manifold and engine get a lot of cool water flowing at all times and can stay too cool.
 

mvanwy02

Cadet
Joined
Jun 25, 2022
Messages
7
Yes there are only 3 hoses, #1 sea water in top left of thermostat housing, #2 large u shaped hose to pump, and #3 a short jumper hose from right side of thermostat housing to manifold. I am aware of the bypass hole in the housing and it is clear theres plenty of cold water going to the manifold.
 

mvanwy02

Cadet
Joined
Jun 25, 2022
Messages
7
Yes there are only 3 hoses, #1 sea water in top left of thermostat housing, #2 large u shaped hose to pump, and #3 a short jumper hose from right side of thermostat housing to manifold. I am aware of the bypass hole in the housing and it is clear theres plenty of cold water going to the manifold. Also I tried a restrictor plate under the elbow from earlier model years and that did not help. No change at all.
 

itsathepete

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 23, 2018
Messages
300
Does the housing appear to have corrosion that has made the bypass hole excessively large? this would allow extra flow when not needed
 

mvanwy02

Cadet
Joined
Jun 25, 2022
Messages
7
The housing is older but if anything just rusty not corroded. I also noticed the thermostats have a small open area to bleed some water through, but its very small in comparison to the bleed hole in the housing.
 
Top