New purchase SX-M

[i_build]

Was in storage 2 years and when I cranked her first time sounded like Gimbal and U-Joints were bad.... and as shown... they were... gear lube not milky at all and smells like regular stinky gear lube so I am assuming seals would be good. Seems to shift fine PO said shift cable new and it looked like it. Outside of Bellows, Gimbal Bearing, Water Pump, U-joints, o-rings for shaft, o-rings for water pump hose and water pump mating surface... plus lube... is there anything else that I should do when stuff looks like this?

It's a 2003 with 400Hrs on the clock. Engine wise... I will do all the standard stuff (5.0GL) / plugs / fuel and oil filter / Dizzy Cap / Wires / Oil / PVC valve.

Thanks

 

[Bondo]

Was in storage 2 years and when I cranked her first time sounded like Gimbal and U-Joints were bad.... and as shown... they were... gear lube not milky at all and smells like regular stinky gear lube so I am assuming seals would be good. Seems to shift fine PO said shift cable new and it looked like it. Outside of Bellows, Gimbal Bearing, Water Pump, U-joints, o-rings for shaft, o-rings for water pump hose and water pump mating surface... plus lube... is there anything else that I should do when stuff looks like this?

It's a 2003 with 400Hrs on the clock. Engine wise... I will do all the standard stuff (5.0GL) / plugs / fuel and oil filter / Dizzy Cap / Wires / Oil / PVC valve.

Thanks

Ayuh,........ A whole lota cleaning,.....

 

[i_build]

What scares me is that I can't budge the gimbal in the slightest with a back hammer and after cleaning it looks like epoxy around the gimbal so I'm going to buy an official gimbal puller and hopefully it's not 5 tubes of jb weld and it breaks free but I don't know.

 

[i_build]

I bought the threaded puller instead of the back hammer... then I bought the biggest crescent wrench I could cause mine were not working as soon a I got to a certain pressure my biggest crescent wasn't good enough but when I got the big crescent the inside of the Gimbal bearing pulled out and ball bearings went everywhere but now I am left with this. I tried using the hook on the back hammer to no avail and the threaded puller wont work anymore. Is that center part with the 2 indents around it the inner that should pivot now that the other part fell apart? I dont know whether I should just pull the pivot housing off and get at it with a hack saw or what. If you have been here before please let me know what the "easiest" way is to get this thing out.

 

[kenny nunez]

You need to remove the pivot housing. Then using a a 3/16” drill bit start drilling on one side close to each hole. Just be careful not to drill through the housing. Then try to drive a small chisel through the holes so that you can remove a small piece of the outer retainer. That will weaken the aluminum retainer so that it should come out.

 

[Lou C]

Wow that’s bad! You’re lucky that the drive came off!

 

[i_build]

Thanks Kenny I just ordered the pivot pin removal tool it will come in tomorrow and then Ill start doing as you said. Lou I made a youtube video that was all of about 2 minutes long and it shows how I used a small jack and a sawed off 1/2 inch extension to pop the drive off of my 1966 Ana Capri... i did the same exact method for that drive. The video is here... and yes I know there is risk involved in what I did but now it has worked twice so why not share it . Its got 7200 views. BTW my new boat is a Glastron 249 with Volvo Penta SX drive and 5.0GL engine.

 

[i_build]

Before I go ahead an try to get this bearing out I have a question regarding the transom plate. The transom plate area for the gimbal has the metal circular casting for the shaft and Ujoints to go through... and it has a ridge that holds the ujoint bellows in place. The lower section of this inlet has corroded away at some point. I would say the ridge exists for 70% of the diameter and the lower 30% had corroded back to the ridge (meaning the ridge is gone) but not beyond it. Do I have to replace the transom plate or assuming the bellows extends beyond the ridge and is clamped after the ridge can I use sealant and replace the bellows every season as it should till I see water intrusion? It will be trailer kept at home. The pic below is from someone else's post and it really looks like what mine is... some people on his post said change the transom plate and of course that's the best solution but he went ahead and cleaned it up and installed his bellows and never posted again (hopefully cause it work and the boat didn't sink) but please let me know cause money is a big factor right now.

 

[kenny nunez]

If you grind off the front raised portion of the bellows so that the clamp is binding on solid aluminum you should be ok.
The other option could be to find a good aluminum welder then dress off any extra welded up material.