new mercury 60HP fuel connection

[Lewis]

I just repowered with a new Mercury 60, and to my surprise there is no quick connect/disconnect fuel fitting. I keep a portable tank in the boat to run the 8HP Mercury kicker motor, and I want to be able to switch the new 60HP from the built-in tank to the portable tank, or the kicker from the portable tank to the built-in, without undoing hose clamps, etc. I don't see a quick connect/disconnect fuel fitting on the parts diagram for the new motor, but I hope there's a way to do it. I suppose I could use valves and tees, but setting something up for two motors and two tanks seems overly complicated. Any ideas?

 

[juno pierrat]

when looking around for fuel connection for my new 50hp, settled on ones found at Walmart, after a little more research think there from Tohatsu, got some merc brand and one leaked

​

 

[Lewis]

Thanks, Juno. I was hoping for an OEM Mercury option that mounts directly to the outboard. Barring that option, I'm thinking about using a connector like the one on my kicker motor (shown in the pic), and figuring out a way to bolt it on the lower cowling of the new 60. But maybe an inline disconnect might be the best I can do.

 

[JimS123]

I have a new Merc 60 and a new Merc Kicker as well. I've been running multiple tanks and multiple outboards for over 50 years.

My personal operating philosophy is the opposite of yours. I simply hate disconnecting fuel lines because there is always a drip, plus often there is pressure which makes the spill even worse.

My motors are permanently connected to 2 fuel tanks. I cut the lines and installed marine grade 3-way brass valves. A simple flick of the lever and viola your on another tank of another motor. You can even do it with the motor running.

And if you DO decide to remove a gas tank, simply do it with the QD right on the tank. Or, if you want to take the kicker off the boat, it has a QD, unlike the 60.

 

[QBhoy]

If it is anything like my new 115...I am sure it is a quick connect fitting. does it have a wee red push down tab on the pipe that goes into engine ? mine has. think it is their new type bayonet fitting.

 

[juno pierrat]

my installer liked no quick connections if possible, said most of service problems were related to air in fuel line, JimS123 system is a good way to go, and that merc connector leaked for me. one other comment from installer, higher HP motors with all electric fuel pumps should not have primer bulb in fuel line, FYI, believe your 60 has a mechanical low pressure pump

 

[Lewis]

Sorry to be so late in getting back to this - for some reason I haven't been getting notifications that replies have been posted - but belated thanks to you all.
JimS123, to be sure I understand your set-up, you have one 3-way valve that selects input from either of two tanks, and then downstream of that is another 3-way valve that selects output to either of two motors? Valves something like this: https://www.iboats.com/shop//seasense-female-three-way-valve-3-8-npt.html?
And Juno is correct that my system does have a primer bulb(s). If I'm understanding the way to set it up, it seems that the only way to have just one primer bulb would be to put it in between the two 3-way valves so that it would pull from whichever tank is selected and push to whichever motor is selected. Right?

 

[JimS123]

Yes, that's the valve you need and that's the way to hook it up.

 

[Lewis]

Thanks Jim! Having scoped out mounting locations for the 2 valves, I think I'll try this out. Always willing to learn.
BTW, I think your SeaRay SPX 190 is the elegant and refined granddaughter of my old SRV 190...

 

[Lewis]

I decided to go back to my original plan - at least for now. I do have a pair of three-way valves that I might switch over to at some point. But here are some pics of the way I have it set up now. It went together easily, and required no modifications to the motor. I made a little bracket out of aluminum angle, shaped to fit the on the lower cowling and bolted the male fuel fitting to it. The bracket bolts through existing holes on the cowling with an aluminum backing plate on the back.