New gimbal bearing, can’t get alignment tool in coupler

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Did you try to move only the gimbal bearing without the alignment tool? My alignment tool unscrews in the middle so I took it apart and put the end of the handle just inside the inner race of the bearing and tried to move (gimbal) the bearing (see gimbal bearings explained video above). Mine would not move at all even with hard whacks from a 5lb hammer and certainly nothing like the video. I am guessing when I installed my new gimbal bearing that I damaged it, could your new one be damaged? I also ran across a note that said in 1984 Mercruiser reversed the direction of the bearing on install. The video shows slots toward the front but the note said it was changed to slots toward the back. I don't know if this makes a difference and could be causing the problem you have as well as the one I have.
My gimbal bearing moves pretty freely without the tool touching the engine. I also put it in the freezer prior to install so it went in pretty smooth. I don't think mine is damaged.
 

76SeaRay

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Mine spins easily but won't swivel in the gimbal mode. Mine is new and I tried to remove it last night with a slide hammer. It won't budge at all. I put mine in using a hydraulic press so thinking maybe I over stressed it. I don't know why it won't come back out with the slide hammer. Looks like I will have to drill it out. I ordered a new bearing, grease seal and the plate style puller.

If yours swivels and spins free, I would pull it as a last resort. Sounds like you have a different problem than the bearing. As mentioned by others, possibly a bad set of rear mount bushings, bad coupler, or oversized tip of the tool (ie too big to slide into the splines).
 
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Stinnett21

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It appears to me from the OP's pics those engine mounts have failed.
 

todhunter

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MMine is new and I tried to remove it last night with a slide hammer. It won't budge at all.
I pulled mine with a plate style puller. It took some force to get it moving. I don't think the slide hammer would have done it. Try the plate style puller before you start drilling.
 

nola mike

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Mine spins easily but won't swivel in the gimbal mode. Mine is new and I tried to remove it last night with a slide hammer. It won't budge at all. I put mine in using a hydraulic press so thinking maybe I over stressed it. I don't know why it won't come back out with the slide hammer. Looks like I will have to drill it out. I ordered a new bearing, grease seal and the plate style puller.

If yours swivels and spins free, I would pull it as a last resort. Sounds like you have a different problem than the bearing. As mentioned by others, possibly a bad set of rear mount bushings, bad coupler, or oversized tip of the tool (ie too big to slide into the splines).
Isn't your engine out? If so, knock it out from the inside.
 

achris

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Snatch out bearing and then examine if alignment tool goes into bearing and coupler. If tool goes into both, you have problems elsewhere.
If you use a slide hammer to extract the bearing, throw it in the bin. The act of removing it damages it.

Chris.
 

tank1949

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If you use a slide hammer to extract the bearing, throw it in the bin. The act of removing it damages it.

Chris.
INDEED, unless you can get on the outside race. I have a special tool that is similar to a turn buckle. It seems to work. If my old memory serves me correctly, I believe I purchased it for gimbal bearing removal for Alpha 1.
 

tank1949

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Does a newly installed bearing come out pretty easy? I just don't want to cause damage to it.
not real easy. You should use special too like a turn buckle. I had to buy one. Snatching using the center of bearing, as Achris points out, may damage it.
 
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Mine spins easily but won't swivel in the gimbal mode. Mine is new and I tried to remove it last night with a slide hammer. It won't budge at all. I put mine in using a hydraulic press so thinking maybe I over stressed it. I don't know why it won't come back out with the slide hammer. Looks like I will have to drill it out. I ordered a new bearing, grease seal and the plate style puller.

If yours swivels and spins free, I would pull it as a last resort. Sounds like you have a different problem than the bearing. As mentioned by others, possibly a bad set of rear mount bushings, bad coupler, or oversized tip of the tool (ie too big to slide into the splines).
It's pricy, but having the right tool for the job makes a world of difference. This threaded bearing puller worked when a slide hammer wouldn't. That https://www.amazon.com/BESTOOL-Gimb...jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
yes rear mounts can sag, and as pointed out the transom integrity in an older boat is also suspect.

If the mounts were sagging the coupler would be lower than the gimbal bearing when viewed through the bearing. If you can take a pic through the bearing and see the coupler we might be able to give you some direction
Here’s some pictures of the coupler through the bearing. The aft side of the coupler is almost in line with the inner race of the bearing.
 

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achris

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Did you check that the bearing was able to move around in the carrier? (As explained in my video)
 

kenny nunez

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To check if the rear engine mounts have collapsed is with a sharp pick try to rotate the insulators on both sides. If you can move them the mounts are still good.
One reason why Mercruiser wanted the open side of the gimbal bearing carrier facing forward is someone started selling just the bearing without the carrier back in the late 70s. There was a place here in New Orleans area called After Market Marine that was one of the sources.
 

Brando33

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Is there a way to tell if the rear motor mounts are still good? I returned the front motor mount to the previous position, whacked the alignment tool up and down to try to get it to fit in the coupler, and it still wouldn’t go in. When I look through the gimbal bearing, it appears that the most aft part of the coupler is level with the bearing.
Hi. I’m wondering the same thing. With the bearing removed and rubber portion of the seal on the gimbal bearing seal plate removed (had to remove to get alignment tool installed) I noticed that I’m out of alignment slightly. I looked at the rear mounts and noticed a thick spacer like you appear to have on one side but not the other. I pulled the bolt out to remove the spacer thinking this was the problem because it looked like this would be the direction I needed to go to get back into alignment. But since you show one on both sides maybe I should add one to the other side and mess with the front mounts. I have a 350 Magnum in a 1987 Pachanga.
 

Brando33

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To check if the rear engine mounts have collapsed is with a sharp pick try to rotate the insulators on both sides. If you can move them the mounts are still good.
One reason why Mercruiser wanted the open side of the gimbal bearing carrier facing forward is someone started selling just the bearing without the carrier back in the late 70s. There was a place here in New Orleans area called After Market Marine that was one of the sources.
Hi. Having trouble identifying the rear engine mounts. Obviously one on each side. I have a bolt with a washer and a sleeve that comes off. Appears to be another sleeve inside the mounts. Is this the bushing? Is this rubber? Is that what needs to rotate? Or is the thick spacer between the engine and transom mount that needs to spin? I’m missing this spacer on one side? Does anyone know a part number for one of these?
 
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