New DP-M outdrive install: need advice

[saf]

So, I need to replace the outdrive on my boat. I managed to buy a new VP DP-M 1.95 outdrive from an out-of-state dealer who secured a batch of the outdrives while VP announced that they were halting the production. Now my local VP dealer is refusing to install it (while being unable to get one from VP). So, I am stuck with 3 options: 1. bring the boat to the out-of-state dealer for the install, pay ~$1K extra for boat transport, and get the 2-year warranty from VP; 2. pay some local mechanic for the install and loose the 2-year VP warranty (as I understand it, the warranty is only 1 year if the installation is done by an unauthorized mechanic); 3. install it myself (also loosing the 2-year warranty but saving money on install). My question is two-fold: how valuable is the 2-year warranty from VP, is it worth $1K extra?; how difficult is the outdrive install, is it a DIY project (I am an intermediate level DIY mechanic, doing all engine service myself, but no experience with outdrives)? Thanks for all the advice (advice from VP professionals would be especially valuable in this situation).

 

[BRICH1260]

What type of drive was on the boat, the same or something completely different. Are you having to change the entire drive including the transom assembly or just the lower drive?

 

[saf]

What type of drive was on the boat, the same or something completely different. Are you having to change the entire drive including the transom assembly or just the lower drive?

Should be exact match. I am replacing the entire assembly (upper and lower units)

 

[bruceb58]

Just do it yourself. Make sure you check engine/gimbal bearing alignment before you install.

If it's going to fail from a manufacturer's defect, it's going to be in the beginning.

Really hard to believe a VP dealer won't install it. Is it because you didn't buy it from them?

 

[saf]

Thanks, Bruce. I've been leaning towards this option myself. Do I need a lift or any other special tools to do this?
As for the VP dealer, I am unpleasantly surprised myself. I had business with these guys for 5 years including two big jobs. They quoted me the outdrive with 40% markup, which prompted me to shop around. Good thing I did, turned out they could not even get it because VP halted the manufacturing. I'd be without a boat for the next season if I just accepted the quote and waited for the spring. Now they are telling me that they just don't trust that other dealer I bought the outdrive from (even though he is a legit VP authorized dealer and the outdrive he sold me is totally legit with a serial number registered with Volvo). I really want to give these guys the benefit of the doubt, but this whole situation looks really strange to me. Maybe VP guys here can provide some insight.

 

[Lou C]

Sounds like that might be it, that you bought it from a different dealer, but it’s really not a hard thing for any marine mechanic. When reinstalling you want to check alignment as mentioned and make sure the driveshaft bellows is in good shape. There are a few tricks to make it easier such as using an outdrive jack & using a long thin screwdriver in the ujoints to turn the driveshaft just enough for the splines to line up. The driveshaft splines should be lubed every time the drive is pulled and reinstalled. This is just standard maintenance for I/Os.

 

[BRICH1260]

If you are not having to redo the transom assembly, I`d do it myself. It`s fairly easy. You will need a drive stand or cart, which you can build or buy and an alignment tool that you can get on ebay. With your labor savings you should be able to buy all the needed tools and still be money ahead. You will then have the tools for future use. Might be a good time to replace the gimble and bellows if they do not come with the new assembly.

 

[Lou C]

Agreed if you are going to own the boat a long time the tools will pay for themselves in one season basically, and your boat will be better maintained than otherwise. I've been doing this in salt water with a moored boat 6 months out of the year which is probably the hardest use of an I/O power system and have had very little trouble at all with the drive and transom mount, all repairs have been nothing more than normal maintenance, but regular maintenance was always done and needed repairs not put off.
Yes its nasty looking compared to you fresh water guys but it is a 24 year old OMC Cobra used in salt 20+ years. This stuff is easy not rocket science but if you're older or have a bad back for SURE get the drive jack. Best money I ever spent.

 

[kenny nunez]

One other option is to rent/borrow a engine lift or even a patient lift to hold the drive in position using the dipstick threaded hole with a lifting ring and some chain.

 

[bruceb58]

I could muscle mine on an off without a stern drive jack but got tired of that and welded up my own

 

[bruceb58]

Not sure if these guys still sell these or not.

Boat Outdrive Jack

BOAT LOWER UNIT JACK with "BRAKE" Casters $299.00 ( Part # BLU-JL ) ( color may very )

www.stumpysfabworks.com

 

[bruceb58]

There are a few tricks to make it easier such as using an outdrive jack & using a long thin screwdriver in the ujoints to turn the driveshaft just enough for the splines to line up. The driveshaft splines should be lubed every time the drive is pulled and reinstalled. This is just standard maintenance for I/Os.

Maybe you can do that on a Cobra but good luck with a Volvo. Easier just to put the drive in gear and turn the propshaft. With mine I rarely even needed to do that since the shaft pretty much aligns itself...unlike a cobra which has the stupid water pump that holds it firmly.

 

[Horigan]

Before I made a custom cart I would have my wife help me wrestle the drive on. Two people can do it without hoist tools.

 

[Lou C]

that jack is the same one I have, it works great and when I bought it they were around $175 or so.
the screwdriver in the u joints trick works just fine. as far as the 'stupid' water pump, yeah that's the one where you can change the whole thing for $45 in 15 min, not like an Alpha where you have to split the drive, or on the Volvos or Bravos that on some boats have a bulkhead right up against them making the 'easy to replace' engine mounted pump a real pain. And if the housing on the Bravo or Volvo ever needs replacing, they are $$$.
every design has its pros & cons
But for anyone doing this, I would advise getting the jack. That, and an alignment tool are the best money you will spend on I/O maintenance tools. And you won't hurt your back!

 

[bruceb58]

the screwdriver in the u joints trick works just fine.

So...you have installed a Volvo drive before? Don't say they are exactly like the OMC because they aren't. When you get the drive inserted and the drive shaft is just short of the coupler, you can not see the u-joints.

 

[Lou C]

OK Bruce so it doesn't work on the Volvo, I got it....