New 5.7 issues with old(new) starter

Galvez83

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Oct 31, 2019
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Yeah waiting on shims to see if it works. Pics below to point how close starter bolt is to flywheel housing that was also noticed upon install. New starter for 168 tooth 14inch wheel tested and still nothing. This started did not come with shims waiting on some that should be arriving today. I noticed that the starter mounting point at engine (seems to me) to be thicker than my previous engine but i could be wrong.
 

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stresspoint

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you could just stick a couple of washers between the starter and the block to see if that makes a difference.
 

Lou C

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We had that issue with an Olds 5.7 many years ago, never had that problem with the boat though, I have changed starters several times and all worked fine with no shim.
I agree the closeness of the bolt to the flywheel does not look right to me. I wonder if it is possible that the area was repaired at some point with welding?
Here's a pic of my 4.3 which to my knowledge uses the exact same mounting as the 5.7. The ARCO mounting kit comes with the new bolts and that rubber gasket which I presume is to keep water out of the flywheel housing, notice the distance from the edge of the starter itself and the flywhee housing (this is an OMC vs yours being Volvo but some Volvos used the exact same flywheel housing as OMC.
 

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Lou C

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PS take a pic of the bolt hole for the bolt that's too close to the flywheel, does it look like that area was repaired? Busted off bolt, retapped hole?
 

Galvez83

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See pics of findings. First 2 pics is the hole that is closes to the flywheel and last pic is the bolt hole closest to the engine. Looks to me like a repair, Timesert or Heli.
 

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dubs283

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If the removed/missing paint around the hole is not from you installing/removing the starter I'd be curious of the rebuild


Iirc, this is the second machine/rebuild shop you've experienced with this motor?

And yes, I'd agree with a helicoil/thread repair based on the photos
 

Galvez83

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Update, shims came in and first installed the .060 and this allowed engagememt but binding then installed .040 and this did allow starter engagement and disingagement. Tomorrow i will remove bell housing to properly meassure.
 
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sasngang

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Jul 11, 2009
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My thought was also to shim. They are different blocks, so the machining may be just enough different to cause the issue. But the bolt being in a different location (closer to the bell housing is a head scratcher to me.)

Can you see how far off are the teeth from meshing together? We had to shim my buddy's starter because it was too tight and wouldn't let the starter gear loose after the engine started. Shimming solved that issue.
 

Galvez83

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Oct 31, 2019
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My thought was also to shim. They are different blocks, so the machining may be just enough different to cause the issue. But the bolt being in a different location (closer to the bell housing is a head scratcher to me.)

Can you see how far off are the teeth from meshing together? We had to shim my buddy's starter because it was too tight and wouldn't let the starter gear loose after the engine started. Shimming solved that issue.
So far more i measured between flywheel teeth more than 1/8. I only shimmed the side closer to the block. If i shimmed across the starter it would work and when cranking again it would not engage or bind on the teeth. This way i found to to work the best.
 
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