Neutral start issue - 2000 mercury 75hp

Calhouncm

Recruit
Joined
May 11, 2020
Messages
3
Hello,

I recently purchased a 2000 alumacraft 165. It has a 2000 mercury 75hp 2 stroke outboard. I took it out for the first ride, made it a half mile and the motor quit. It would start back up, but wouldn’t stay running or idle.

Potentially unrelated to the issue the ignition switch wasn’t smooth, so I decided first step was going to be replacing it. I determined it was a 10 wire switch which isn’t made anymore, I found the part that replaces it. I wired it all color for color. Upon getting it all back together most stuff seems to be working (running on hose anyways). The one thing I have found is not working is the ability to push the neutral button, move the shift lever forward and still be able to turn it over to start it. Looking for help on troubleshooting this.

I haven’t worked on boats much and am not familiar with how this circuit works, but does the ignition switch have anything to do with this? I have one wire coming out of the ignition switch (I think it was a yellow/black wire) going into the back of the controls. I suspect that is the neutral safety switch wires, since it starts when in neutral without the lever forward is it handled in the controls for the part I am having trouble with?

Thanks for any info
 

Dukedog

Captain
Joined
Oct 6, 2009
Messages
3,496
not being able ta "push" tha button is gonna be in tha controls.. ign switch has nothing ta do with those mechanics.....
 

Calhouncm

Recruit
Joined
May 11, 2020
Messages
3
Thanks, to clarify I can push the button and move the lever forward. However when I do this I’m unable to get the engine to turn over.
 

Texasmark

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 20, 2005
Messages
14,897
The kill wire is yellow/black as you mentioned and is connected to ground (battery-) in the Off position. The primer wire is the opposite black/yellow and when the key is pushed, and somewhere besides OFF, it sends 12v to the "fuel enricher" valve causing fuel to be dumped directly into the engine for starting...fuel priming, like a choke used to do....fuel enrichment.

Side note: My current boat had a problem with the fuel enrichment so I just bought a push button SPST switch and installed it adjacent to my ignition switch (which were dash mounted on this boat...making it easier). One side of the switch to 12v purple, or red with a purple stripe....purple indicating 12v, but 12v from the ignition switch being somewhere other than OFF, and the other side to the black/yellow wire.

The N start has to be a switch associated with the throttle/shift lever. My manuals are out in the shop and I am having morning coffee in my PJs so later in the day I will go out and come back with an answer on troubleshooting that switch and color of wires. I think it's yellow/red stripe for starter solenoid. All you would need for that circuit to work is 12v on the yellow/red wire from the START position on the switch out to the shift/throttle lever control to pick up the "position switch" and from there to the small contacts on the starter solenoid. To "not turnover unless in N" is how it works...safety thing.
 

Texasmark

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 20, 2005
Messages
14,897
The kill wire is yellow/black as you mentioned and is connected to ground (battery-) in the Off position. The primer wire is the opposite black/yellow and when the key is pushed, and somewhere besides OFF, it sends 12v to the "fuel enricher" valve causing fuel to be dumped directly into the engine for starting...fuel priming, like a choke used to do....fuel enrichment.

Side note: My current boat had a problem with the fuel enrichment so I just bought a push button SPST switch and installed it adjacent to my ignition switch (which were dash mounted on this boat...making it easier). One side of the switch to 12v purple, or red with a purple stripe....purple indicating 12v, but 12v from the ignition switch being somewhere other than OFF, and the other side to the black/yellow wire.

The N start has to be a switch associated with the throttle/shift lever. My manuals are out in the shop and I am having morning coffee in my PJs so later in the day I will go out and come back with an answer on troubleshooting that switch and color of wires. I think it's yellow/red stripe for starter solenoid. All you would need for that circuit to work is 12v on the yellow/red wire from the START position on the switch out to the shift/throttle lever control to pick up the "position switch" and from there to the small contacts on the starter solenoid. To "not turnover unless in N" is how it works...safety thing.

Wire color error and it happens frequently. The kill wire is Black/Yellow stripe. The Yellow/Black stripe is the fuel enrichment wire....sorry.
 

Dukedog

Captain
Joined
Oct 6, 2009
Messages
3,496
does it turn over when control is in neutral??

make sure you have 12v power on tha red at ign switch... trace tha yellow red from ign switch thru tha control box jus in case ya missed something.. tha "button" should disengage tha mechanical neutral start switch in tha box allowing it ta start with throttle added.. tha only thing tha switch does is "break" tha yellow/red circuit..
 

Texasmark

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 20, 2005
Messages
14,897
does it turn over when control is in neutral??

make sure you have 12v power on tha red at ign switch... trace tha yellow red from ign switch thru tha control box jus in case ya missed something.. tha "button" should disengage tha mechanical neutral start switch in tha box allowing it ta start with throttle added.. tha only thing tha switch does is "break" tha yellow/red circuit..
........and the yellow/red is power to the starter solenoid. Pushing the big black button on some, square on others, just disengages the shifter so that you can have a "fast idle" function. Opening up the control and getting out something like Lubriplate white, great marine grease, or Mercury/Quicksilver teflon enriched grease and give it a good cleaning and lubrication. While you are at it you can check the condition of the switch. May be that either the switch is worn out internally, or the plunger isn't touching the shifter arm adequately to depress it in N.
 

flyingscott

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Apr 8, 2014
Messages
8,291
If the button in the controller is not separating the shift and throttle function then it is broke. Not that uncommon with that controller.
 
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