Need to adjust the dial 1990 Force carbs mixture

gica

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Feb 24, 2016
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Ok so one engine still starts regardless of kill switch plug in or not. That ignition shows ground on the yellow wire the other doesn't have it. I have to see if I unplugged anything at the motor in the morning. But the kill switches are new and opened when the lanyard is plugged in. I don't know about the ground on the yellow have to check in the morning if the other one has all the wires plugged in to compare. The purple has positive on both, red positive and the yellow sends signal to the starter switch through the interlock switch when in neutral. Not that complicated , yet I have this issue.
 
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The Force power

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Feb 3, 2019
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Ok got the new ignition switches and I tested them with a meter. So when the key is off there is continuity between the two M connectors on the switch. As soon as you turn the key the circuit opens and the kill switch becomes the one that controls the
continuity. So I have to check if the switch I still have on operates that way. It might not open the connection between the 2 M connectors. So that's how the kill switch operates. That's why you turn off the motor from the switch even if the kill switches are not on and the engine runs. The white wire gets ground and shut's off the engine. And probably the power gets disconnected also. At least I think that's how it works. Now I should have no ground to the wire at the engine with the key on.
Correct
I also fixed every small wire at the junction where the trigger wires go. I did find at least 3 that were either broken or broke off right away. Most were ok but I redid them anyways.
That's why we encourage to replace/repair them all (intermitted issues will lead to misdiagnosing)
I will clean the carbs again since I had the sandy broken filter issue before changing it. That filter was either old or there is stuff in the tank. They both look super clean now. If I clean them again I hope I can get idle this time around. It's long overdue.
Eventually you'll get right :)
 

gica

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Joined
Feb 24, 2016
Messages
495
Ok I got news so fixing the wiring yesterday, plus new ignition switches and kill switches managed to get the system to work properly and the kill switches also function now.
The engine that wasn't idling now has idle and runs ok but it has some hiccups or studdering while running. I made a video and you can see it more than hear it but it's there and in person it is more pronounces. It is not a vibration hiccup it's a miss hiccup you could hear and see it at least 2 times. I want to get that fixed also. Don't know if it is coil related spark plugs are new, carb related, electrical?
Also I pumped the prime balls and on both sides I had gas drip down from the top carbs, I mean after really squeezing hard, but it did not do it during running. I already adjusted the floats on all 4 carbs.
Let me know and thanks alot guys.

 
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gica

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Feb 24, 2016
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495
Can anybody watch the video above and let me know what they think? Thanks in advance
 

The Force power

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Can anybody watch the video above and let me know what they think? Thanks in advance
I assume; this is running at home on muffs/bucket
Have you ran this out on open water yet? It may clear up after a good clean out
 

gica

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Feb 24, 2016
Messages
495
I assume; this is running at home on muffs/bucket
Have you ran this out on open water yet? It may clear up after a good clean out
Not since I got the idle to work. I did take it before twice. But the wires were bad. Now the wires on the intake side are all good. Also the ignition is new as far as switch and kill switches and works properly. Waiting to take it out this weekend for carb mix setting as per Jerry
1 1/2 out in until it wants to die and back out half turn. Last time I did that it took me to 1 and a bit ( maybe 1/8) out
But the little hiccups are not normal, just wanted some opinions.
 
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