Need some advice on pulling out a Mercruiser 3.0

Chucky5150

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Aug 19, 2016
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So due to a lot of rain (I live in south Louisiana), a 50 cent shop rag plugging the drain, and a moment of poor judgment from myself I now need to pull out the engine. Yay me. I didn't even think water would have made it into the intake, but it did.

I got a bad spot on the fly wheel, or is it a ring gear? Starter spins just fine. I can rotate it by hand. Starter turns the engine over until it gets to the bad spot. Seems pretty cut and dry. I do have a few questions before I dive into this project.


I've rebuilt a big block V-8 so I'm not too worried about fixing this. It doesn't seem like a normal engine lift will be able to get the engine high enough to get it out. What is the best way to do this?

I understand that the drive needs to come off and that doesn't seem too hard. Just the rams and the 6 bolts. Do I have to drain the drive oil or is that housed in a different part of the drive?

Is the ring gear a normal GM part or something for the boats?

I just plan on have the engine out long enough to replace the gear and then back in it goes. Will I still need to check out the alignment? Where does one fine an alignment too (I've done some searching online and didn't find anything)?

Anything else I can expect to run into or special tools I might need?

This is on an 1998 Bayliner
2hwck6u.jpg
(Sorry the pic is upside down, I thought it was rotated right on my computer)

Thank you.
 

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Jmunk

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Drain oil in outdrive first. You will need to align the engine once it's back in. You could use a substantial tree branch and come along or build a A-frame, unless you have a friend with a tractor or fork lift.
 

alldodge

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The ring gear is the standard GM 168 tooth for a 14.5 inch flywheel. Most shops can replace it and you can if you put it in a 500 degree oven for a bit, remove and install on the flywheel.

No need to drain the drive to remove/replace, not a bad idea so you can check the lube. Drive only holds about 2.5 quarts.

To remove engine once mounting bolts have been removed on the rear and front. Lift the motor using the lifting eyes. there should be one on the front and one on the rear on opposite sides of the motor. DO NOT use the one mounted on the thermostat housing, this is for engine alignment.

Yes when motor is reinstalled it should have the alignment checked
 

Scott Danforth

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Pull the wheels on the trailer and you may get enough clearance with a standard engine lift.

Pulling the head first gets you another 6"
 

Chucky5150

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Would this be the ring gear in question? Hard to believe the amount of work it's going to take to get to a $20 part. I would have thought that it was the whole flywheel that got replaced. It doesn't seem like it will be too hard to get the old ring gear off and new one on.

I got a friend who has an A-frame hoist. Looks like it be easier just to take it there then try and get a engine hoist in my driveway. I don't want to take any more of the engine apart than I really need to.

I think all I need now is the alignment tool or find out what the service center charges to check it.
 

Rick Stephens

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Last time I removed my v6 - day after I installed it, it took an hour and a half to come out and back in. It is very easy to unplug electrical, water line, fuel and exhaust at elbow. Four bolts on front and rear motor mounts and there it is. Takes four times as much to get to the flywheel on my kids F150
 

alldodge

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Would this be the ring gear in question? Hard to believe the amount of work it's going to take to get to a $20 part. I would have thought that it was the whole flywheel that got replaced. It doesn't seem like it will be too hard to get the old ring gear off and new one on.

I got a friend who has an A-frame hoist. Looks like it be easier just to take it there then try and get a engine hoist in my driveway. I don't want to take any more of the engine apart than I really need to.

I think all I need now is the alignment tool or find out what the service center charges to check it.

Yes that's the correct part
 

Chucky5150

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What kind of gm motor is this 3.0? I'm thinking I want to get an oil priming tool to make sure I got clean oil throughout all the passages.
 

alldodge

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The 3.0 is a GM industrial motor, but does use many of the same components as all GM motors. Remove the distributor and use a drill to turn the oil pump. Make sure to turn it in the correct rotation
 

Bondo

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What kind of gm motor is this 3.0? I'm thinking I want to get an oil priming tool to make sure I got clean oil throughout all the passages

Ayuh,..... Roll it over on the key, before ya put the spark plugs back in,....

It'll have all the oil it needs in 30 seconds, a minute if ya want,....
 

dpoff

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I believe the drive will have to be in fwd shift position before the out drive is removed. Correct me if I`m wrong.
 

putback

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If your front motor mount base is anchored to fiberglass wrapped wood now is the time to check it for rot. If bad among other problems the engine / outdrive won't hold alignment.
 

Chucky5150

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So, I got back to working on the boat today. Took the plugs back out and turned it over by hand some. Found out my batteries were dead (this boat and I are not friends yet). Finally got the starter to turn over and it just spins. So I took the starter out to put my hands on the flywheel expecting missing teeth. In my surprise I found all the gears intact. Is it possiable that I just broke something in the starter? Other than going to auto zone and buying another starter how can I test that the starter works?

Thank you.
 

alldodge

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Take it to autozone to be tested but don't buy one there. You need a marine starter and not an auto one. With the starter just spinning, it could be the solenoid is not working and/or frozen up
 

Chucky5150

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Take it to autozone to be tested but don't buy one there. You need a marine starter and not an auto one. With the starter just spinning, it could be the solenoid is not working and/or frozen up
Good thing you said that. I just looked up Advance Auto and found out they test it (I didn't really want to to the jumper cable and screwdriver test). Was thinking of just getting one there and trying it out.
 
Last edited:

Fishermark

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A typical starter test at Autozone will not help you. It sounds like the bendix is stripped and is no good. All their test will show is the starter "works." The bendix will spin on the test stand, but when under a load can fail. And yes, it can be an intermittent thing. Unless you are in a hurry, you can buy a good new marine starter from DB Electric. I have ordered various parts from them with good success.
 

Chucky5150

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The starter looks to be held together with just two small bolts. If I were to remove those bolts would I be able to get to the guts of this starter and see if I stripped / broke a gear inside? Or would that just be causing more trouble than it is worth?
 

R055

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The starter looks to be held together with just two small bolts. If I were to remove those bolts would I be able to get to the guts of this starter and see if I stripped / broke a gear inside? Or would that just be causing more trouble than it is worth?

Just get a new marine starter. Not worth trying to fix an old broken starter that probably won't be as reliable as a new one.
 
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