Need help with Johnson outboard

[jakedaawg]

I have lost.my place again...did we ever open air gap spark on this one?

I see low but even comp. That can be attributed to the guage.

 

[jakedaawg]

Typically if a motor runs good when cold air only youbare too rich. Cold air is denser and can carry more fuel. The warm air does not have the molecules to pick up all the extra fuel. Lean the bleed screws or find the orifice you left out when you "rebuilt" the carbs.

but we really need spark check numbers ...

 

[WilsonFamily]

Typically if a motor runs good when cold air only youbare too rich. Cold air is denser and can carry more fuel. The warm air does not have the molecules to pick up all the extra fuel. Lean the bleed screws or find the orifice you left out when you "rebuilt" the carbs.

but we really need spark check numbers ...

I am going to check spark check numbers today ... just been working so much but I will post it as soon as I get it. Thanks for your reply’s and help it really helps.

 

[WilsonFamily]

Typically if a motor runs good when cold air only youbare too rich. Cold air is denser and can carry more fuel. The warm air does not have the molecules to pick up all the extra fuel. Lean the bleed screws or find the orifice you left out when you "rebuilt" the carbs.

but we really need spark check numbers ...

Did spark check and yes all 3 checked at a 3/8 gap.

 

[jakedaawg]

Verify choke butterfly open fully and stay open at mid and full throttle.

 

[WilsonFamily]

Verify choke butterfly open fully and stay open at mid and full throttle.

Yes they are all open and stay open during mid and full throttle

 

[jakedaawg]

Well shoot...

who cleaned carbs? Experienced? It's not rocket science but some fail to remove all jets and clean.

heat soak can cause electrics to act wonky. Goto Cdi electronics .Com and use their free trouble shooting guide.

Have you verified that timer base moves freely through the whole range?

do you have a factory manual? Done the link and synch? Verified timing?

I recall you replaced coils? What color wire goes to the top and bottom? Hint top gets orange with blue stripe. Bottom gets orange with green stripe.

all parts replaced with OEM?

that's really all I got for over the nets help. Plus I haven't seen one this old in years, i quit turning bolts on the old ones...sorry.

we are probably back to the low compression but they usually don't start well or idle well with low comp.

 

[WilsonFamily]

Well shoot...

who cleaned carbs? Experienced? It's not rocket science but some fail to remove all jets and clean.

heat soak can cause electrics to act wonky. Goto Cdi electronics .Com and use their free trouble shooting guide.

Have you verified that timer base moves freely through the whole range?

do you have a factory manual? Done the link and synch? Verified timing?

I recall you replaced coils? What color wire goes to the top and bottom? Hint top gets orange with blue stripe. Bottom gets orange with green stripe.

all parts replaced with OEM?

that's really all I got for over the nets help. Plus I haven't seen one this old in years, i quit turning bolts on the old ones...sorry.

we are probably back to the low compression but they usually don't start well or idle well with low comp.

I don’t have a factory manual, how to I go about verifying link and sync and timing?

 

[jakedaawg]

I don’t have a factory manual, how to I go about verifying link and sync and timing?

You use a manual. 17 or 18 steps for that one. You can try searching my old posts, I wrote it out once, it was for a 140 but it gives you the general idea.

 

[WilsonFamily]

You use a manual. 17 or 18 steps for that one. You can try searching my old posts, I wrote it out once, it was for a 140 but it gives you the general idea.

This probably sounds crazy, but do you know where I would get a manual?

 

[Tim Frank]

Used ones on eBay....a brand new one from Ken Cook at Outboardbooks.com

 

[jakedaawg]

You might wanna try a good compression guage or pop the head off before you sink any more $$$ in this. It's real old. Things don't last forever and can get pricey.

 

[WilsonFamily]

You might wanna try a good compression guage or pop the head off before you sink any more $$$ in this. It's real old. Things don't last forever and can get pricey.

Ok let me try to explain this, hopefully I can, lol
Last year I started motor and it ran like it was on one cylinder .... I didn’t test anything then .. I went and bought new coil packs for it. Putting them on helped but it still was doing the bogged down stuff when I would try to open it up and accelerate. About a week later, i started it up and again it ran like it was only running on one or two cylinders... so I got one of the old coil packs back out and put it on the #2 coil ... fixed it everything was good except the same bogging down when accelerating and opening it up full throttle. Done the spark test the other day and they were all 3/8 like I said ... then went back the very next day and boom it was doing it again like running on 2 cylinders only ... check and no fire on top cylinder ... so I put the coil pack on that I presumed was bad last year and it fixed it all except the bogging down at full throttle. Came home and checked all these coil packs with the meter and ... they are all good. Any suggestions? This thing is driving me crazy!

 

[Tim Frank]

The only suggestion that I have is to do systematic troubleshooting. That will eliminate non-problems and get you to the root cause.

If you "didn't test anything" you might end up just throwing parts at it....like 3 new coil packs....
That gets expensive.

In post #16 you said..."I will give all these things listed a check and give you all updates".
We are at post #34 and I haven't seen those updates.
You have viable spark....and apparently, 6 serviceable coils; twice as many as you require.
That still leaves compression and fuel.

Those checks have been suggested repeatedly. We can't do them for you.....

 

[WilsonFamily]

The only suggestion that I have is to do systematic troubleshooting. That will eliminate non-problems and get you to the root cause.

If you "didn't test anything" you might end up just throwing parts at it....like 3 new coil packs....
That gets expensive.

In post #16 you said..."I will give all these things listed a check and give you all updates".
We are at post #34 and I haven't seen those updates.
You have viable spark....and apparently, 6 serviceable coils; twice as many as you require.
That still leaves compression and fuel.

Those checks have been suggested repeatedly. We can't do them for you.....

Yes I do realize that and thank you. I posted the compression test back on 1st page, test 100 on each cylinder ... haven’t done a fuel sample didn’t realize that needed done. But will do and post results as soon as I can.

 

[jakedaawg]

Go to Cdi electronics. Com

they have all the trouble shooting steps in their free guide. Find your motor. Preform all tests in order. Do them while motor is hot and running poorly. You may also need to manually advance timer base and perform them mimicking full speed.

one other question: what shape is the insulation on the wiring in? Many times the old insulation is breaking down and then there is no hope at fixing.