Need help sorting out electrical demons

[Mi_fiveo]

Per my other posts I’m trying to get the Evinrude 9.9 running. When I test for spark it is very intermittent with the key turned and seems to spark right as I let off of the key. I tested voltage at the key and found 12.7. It dropped to 10ish when the key was turned to start. If I unplug the red harness, I can pull start it but it idles pretty rough. If I try to plug the red plug back together, it dies immediately. Thinking someone must of wired the switch wrong or the wires in the harness are grounding out. I did try to cut the yellow/black kill switch wire and that had no effect. The kill switch was already removed when I bought it. Anyone have any ideas??? I’d appreciate the help.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Describe the color of the wires and what lettered terminal of the ignition switch they are attached to.

 

[Mi_fiveo]

I’ll look after work and report back. Thank you for helping.

 

[Mi_fiveo]

I traced the key wiring and it matches up with the diagrams. The small horn in the control box looks like it got fried somehow. I traced all the wires and they match up right into the engine harnesses. I was able to peek under the fly wheel and I think I see several burnt coils. Is that why I’m getting almost no spark? I have a voltmeter to test as well.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Let us know the engine's model number if available or , if you know for sure.... the make and year of that 9.9hp.

 

[Joe Reeves]

I traced the key wiring and it matches up with the diagrams. The small horn in the control box looks like it got fried somehow. I traced all the wires and they match up right into the engine harnesses. I was able to peek under the fly wheel and I think I see several burnt coils. Is that why I’m getting almost no spark? I have a voltmeter to test as well.

Fried horn? Burnt coils?..... On a 9.9hp model? Sounds like someone's been throwing 12v where it doesn't belong.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Just looked at those pictures.... yes, those items are completely shot! Remove the flywheel and look at the rest of the system.

 

[Mi_fiveo]

It’s e10el4eeb
if I disconnect the red plug and pull start it will kind of putter and run. I’m guessing the P.O. miswired something when he removed the safety. Do I need a special tool to remove the flywheel?

 

[Mi_fiveo]

Borrowing the tool to remove the flywheel today. As far as the alarm in the control box, I just want to eliminate it. Do the alarm wires have to be left open circuit or connected together?

 

[Joe Reeves]

E10El4EEB = 1999 9.9hp Evinrude

DO NOT eliminate the warning horn, that's patch work! Besides, if you do that, the engine could overheat and the only warning you would get is when the powerhead screeches to a smoking halt! You can find more reasonable priced horns at the electronic stores.

If plugging in the RED plug in stops the engine.......... the wiring is absolutely wrong and it needs to be troubleshot and corrected before going any further, otherwise major (expensive) components will be destroyed.

 

[oldboat1]

(Good shop in Curtis, if you decide to get some help -- and anywhere close. Looks like serious issues.)

 

[Mi_fiveo]

Here is how my key switch is wired. It matches the diagram as far as I can see.
C- purple/white stripe (primer)
S- yellow/red stripe (starter)
M- Black/ yellow stripe x 2 (one of which is cut and capped off) (kill circuit)
A- purple x 2 (accessory +)
M- Black (ground)
B- Red (battery +)

The alarm has one one purple wire from the A switch terminal and one purple wire from the tachometer plug. It also has a brown wire from the wiring harness on the other terminal. There is no ground wire like shown in the diagram, unless it is grounded when it is screwed to the control box.

The neutral ground switch is working and disables the starter when it is in not in neutral.
The push to prime on the key switch works and you can hear it when it’s pushed.

Im thinking I should take a voltmeter and check each wire for breaks between the key switch and the plug ends that connect to the engine. Try and verify hat none of them are switched and directing power or a ground where it shouldn’t be.

If if I put a generic 12v alarm buzzer in (most I see are two wire) will that work or do I need an alarm buzzer with a third ground wire?

 

[Mi_fiveo]

[No message]

 

[Mi_fiveo]

My key switch and wiring harness checks out up to the red plug. After the red plug there are two plugs, one with 6 connections and one with 4 connections. I found two errors in there.

On the 6 prong plug, terminal 1 (black/yellow kill wire) also somehow cross feeds to terminal 3 (black ground)
The ground (#3) also cross feeds to #1 when I check it.

On the 4 prong plug, terminal 3 (black ground) does not show a connection.

 

[Mi_fiveo]

[No message]

 

[Mi_fiveo]

Removed the stator. One coil has burnt corroded wires. Sure hoping that is my main problem. Ordered a used one off eBay for $80.

 

[Joe Reeves]

A 2 wire horn is fine. You can rig a self test by simply running a wire from the tan wire of the horn to a spring loaded toggle terminal, then a wire from the other toggle terminal to ground.

 

[Mi_fiveo]

Any ideas on the kill wire going to the ground pin in the plug? Do you think that was preventing the motor from starting?

 

[Joe Reeves]

If you're saying that the black/yellow wire was meeting with a black ground wire.... yeah, that'd kill the ignition.

 

[Mi_fiveo]

Joe,
I have been following the manual and trying to check other components out. When I tested the rectifier I ended up getting the same values when I reversed polarity. Here is the procedure I followed and my results. Do you agree that the rectifier is bad and needs to be replaced. Sounds like a bad rectifier can cook a stator coil which is what I have on my engine. Wanted to get a second opinion before I spend another $175 for a rectifier. I used the 20M Ohms setting on my voltmeter. If it set it lower than that, I get no readings. Really appreciate the help!