NEED HELP ID'ing JOHNSON 60...PLEEEASE....

[lowcountryislandhopper]

So...just bought a very nice older 15' Henry O (McKee)...awesome boat for island hopping in the S.C. and Ga. coatal deltas. Motor is a 60 Johnson. It sounds like it runs well...no spitting/sputtering or skipping for the most part, cranks right up and idles well (for a few minutes). Two problems I'm having....one is @ low rpm...the motor runs out for 30 seconds or so, then starts to sputter (won't stall), if I hit the key to activate the choke....starts running smoothly again (for a minute or 2). Second prob is @ WOT (or under), the engine again runs out good for a few minutes, then starts surging heavily, pushing the key @ this throttle position does nothing....but pumping the bulb causes the motor to perform as it should, interesting thing is the primer doesn't go slack....still feels like it has plenty of pressure, and if you DON'T pump the bulb, it will surge 5 or 6 times, then go back to running WOT.
What I have done to date to eliminate this problem:
Compression test= 120 psi
Replacement of all fuel lines from tank to fuel pump, new water seperator and inline filter, and primer (I even dropped the end of the fuel line into the tank on a test run to see if the pick up tube or screen was blocked...no change)
Took the fuel pump off (VRO has long been diconnected), took it apart, diaphram looked new, blew through all orifices...no blockage, reinstalled

What I would like to do is rebuild the carbs...seems all I have read is pointing to the low/high rpm orifices being clogged,but I'm having a hard time ID'ing this motor for the carb rebuild kit. Possibly has a new top end. I've read through a lot of articles on here and am still having a problem.
Here is the info I have......numbers on the stainless plug @ top of cylinder=G2250336
numbers on the mounting plate=186684 13BN1 (the B COULD be an R, it's hard to tell)
numbers on all 3 coils packs=582508 22DN-OA

Any advise on the running condition of the engine would be appreciated...and direction on how to ID this thing would be...well...let's just say you'll have made a new friend!!

Thanks in Advance!!!

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: NEED HELP ID'ing JOHNSON 60...PLEEEASE....

Unfortunately none of those niumbers are the needed model number.

Look on the port transom bracket for a small plate that would contain the model and serial number, or at the top area of the swivel bracket for a heavy duty decal (between swivel bracket and long exhaust housing).

 

[lowcountryislandhopper]

Re: NEED HELP ID'ing JOHNSON 60...PLEEEASE....

Joe, thanks for the info. This motor has been repainted and not very well. It seems the plate on the transom bracket is missing...and while I did unearth the sticker from under layers of paint (oh so carefully), and it is intact, unfotunately there are NO numbers legible at all, model or serial # field. Any more ideas?? I've got a sinking feeling this is gonna turn into one of those "lets match it to the picture" kinda deals:facepalm:. I seemingly always find the info or the part I'm looking for...but the legwork becomes tedious when you're guessing at year models and trying to match a photo with the real thing. But.....whatever it takes.....

J.

 

[lowcountryislandhopper]

Re: NEED HELP ID'ing JOHNSON 60...PLEEEASE....

Also was hoping someone could point me to the right area to find the link and sync sequence for this engine. I'm guessing I'll have to know the year before I can determine the correct set of instructions though....

 

[lowcountryislandhopper]

Re: NEED HELP ID'ing JOHNSON 60...PLEEEASE....

So...no clue on year model...I said screw it and took the carbs off anyway. This motors entire top end must be brand new. The carbs...all gaskets were NEW, bowls and orifices SPOTLESS, they really look new. The intake behind the carbs...I mean friggin SPOTLESS...all the metal inside the port gleaming like new. Tookem apart, cleaned all orifices (I use a heavy bread tie with the plastic stripped of....works great), blew through, all clean, reinstalled. Zip tied every loose fuel line, even the tiny choke lines. Boat still surges @ WOT unless you pump the primer and runs rough @ low RPM unless you hit the key. And it runs like a TOP if you pump the bulb every 2 minutes or so ...you don't have to pump constantly. Both seemingly indicate starving. I'm baffled. Can the pressure out of the fuel pump be tested? I took it apart and the damn diaphram looks brand new...like everything else. It is the VRO combo pump (VRO disconnected) and I'm wondering if it's possible the oil pump is damaged and is causing the fuel pump to fail, or suck air. I'm not sure on the sync procedures with the carbs...but I made sure they all line up in various throttle positions, and the roller and cam for the throttle linkage is as it should be. There were 2 differences in how the motor performed-----before when it would surge @ WOT it would eventually loose power and come off of plane...yesterday it was staying on plane and the surges were in shorter bursts, and also when it would do this before, I would have to rev the engine in neutral a few seconds to be able to get the motor to come up to speed again....yesterday all it took was pulling the throttle back to an almost idle for about 30 seconds, then hammering down on it again...popped right back up. SOOOOOO.....better I think....but NOT FIXED....
Anybody????

 

[lowcountryislandhopper]

Re: NEED HELP ID'ing JOHNSON 60...PLEEEASE....

Anybody got any ideas on ID'ing this this by any other means...other part #'s etc???

 

[kfa4303]

Re: NEED HELP ID'ing JOHNSON 60...PLEEEASE....

There should be a welch plug about the size of a quarter on the engine block and there is usually an ID tag riveted to the transom bracket somewhere too that should have the model and serial numbers on it.

 

[lowcountryislandhopper]

Re: NEED HELP ID'ing JOHNSON 60...PLEEEASE....

Top end has been replaced...plug #'s mean nothing from what I've been told, and the sticker is present but has no discernible markings on it. Looking for alternative ways of identification....if any. Thanks.....

 

[retiredfornow]

Re: NEED HELP ID'ing JOHNSON 60...PLEEEASE....

On the top of the motor, towards the rear, maybe under the lift ring?, rear side of the flywheel, there should be a round disk with numbers on it. Take a look.

 

[lowcountryislandhopper]

Re: NEED HELP ID'ing JOHNSON 60...PLEEEASE....

Here is the info I have......numbers on the stainless plug @ top of cylinder=G2250336
numbers on the mounting plate=186684 13BN1 (the B COULD be an R, it's hard to tell)
numbers on all 3 coils packs=582508 22DN-OA


This is copied from the top....I did uncover another digit on the stainless plug, (it was painted over black), but from the research I've done these numbers mean nothing...hopefully I'm wrong??

 

[JB]

Re: NEED HELP ID'ing JOHNSON 60...PLEEEASE....

It is trying to run out of fuel. Among possible causes are:

Air leakage into fuel lines, primer bulb or connectors before fuel pump.
Restriction in fuel pickup in tank or fuel lines.
Restriction in tank vent.
Leakage in pulse to the fuel pump.

 

[lowcountryislandhopper]

Re: NEED HELP ID'ing JOHNSON 60...PLEEEASE....

It is trying to run out of fuel. Among possible causes are:

Air leakage into fuel lines, primer bulb or connectors before fuel pump.
Restriction in fuel pickup in tank or fuel lines.
Restriction in tank vent.
Leakage in pulse to the fuel pump.

Hey JB. I've read through a bunch of posts relating to my problem and see your comments a lot...so I'd like to say thanks to start. I've eliminated all of the possibilities you listed except the last. " Leakage in pulse to the fuel pump"...can you elaborate a bit? Is that what I have been calling the "diaphram" inside the pump? I did take the pump apart, but it all looked very new, and I could see no visible damage to the diaphram or the seal on the pump. Is it possible the unhooked VRO portion of the pump is causing the issue? Also...not knowing the year of this engine...can you tell me if there is a "standard" on the air mixture screw on the carbs? Used to be on the old small engines we worked on it was 1.5 turns out from snug I think. And I'm fairly sure it's starvation...from the pushing of the key @ low RPM's making it run right (injection choke) to the priming of the bulb @ high. But again you don't have to pump continually...just every few minutes....