Need help, having trouble removing sterndrive - Volvo Penta setup

duhmey

Seaman
Joined
Sep 18, 2011
Messages
69
Gentlepeople,

I am removing the motor and lower unit from my Glastron V164 to provide access to the floor and bulkhead areas so that I can make repairs to the rotten wood that is there.

P1010337-2.jpg

It comes equipped with a Volvo-Penta AQ130C motor and a Volvo-Penta AQ170 lower unit.

P1010325-2.jpg

P1010333-2.jpg

I am having a tough time getting the engine to separate from the lower unit. Per ?the book? I am to remove all the hoses and linkages that connect the engine and lower unit and then the bolts securing the lower unit to the transom and remove it that way.

The problem I am having is that the motor (as installed) is not bolted down and moves all over the place. I have decided (and verified with a boat mechanic here in town who ?sort-of? remembers how he has done it in the past) that I will re-attach the lower unit to the transom and pull the motor forward instead of fighting the two moving parts.

My question for you all is this, do I have to remove the upper gear housing in order to pull the drive shaft for this to work and 2) once all bonds between the engine and lower unit are separated what is the best method to separate the two parts?

Here is a pic of how she sits at the moment

P1010378-2.jpg


P1010380-2.jpg
 

Maclin

Admiral
Joined
May 27, 2007
Messages
6,761
What "book" are you using? Is that the engine that has no forward mounts, just attaches at the rear? If so I think your mechanic's memory is pretty good. You may get more hits in the VP forum.

Good luck!
 

duhmey

Seaman
Joined
Sep 18, 2011
Messages
69
Maclin, thanks for the reply

The "book" is the Volvo Penta "workshop manual" for the AQ270BCD outboard drives. And yes, you are correct, no forward mounts just attaches at the rear.

Cheers!
 

Maclin

Admiral
Joined
May 27, 2007
Messages
6,761
DOH!, I am putting the gist of your issue here so it can be referenced going forward here without having to thread jump, hope that is ok...

From DOH! ..:

I am removing the motor and lower unit from my Glastron V164 to provide access to the floor and bulkhead areas so that I can make repairs to the rotten wood that is there.

(For PICS refer to original thread)



It comes equipped with a Volvo-Penta AQ130C motor and a Volvo-Penta AQ170 lower unit.



I am having a tough time getting the engine to separate from the lower unit. Per ‘the book’ I am to remove all the hoses and linkages that connect the engine and lower unit and then the bolts securing the lower unit to the transom and remove it that way.

The problem I am having is that the motor (as installed) is not bolted down and moves all over the place. I have decided (and verified with a boat mechanic here in town who ‘sort-of’ remembers how he has done it in the past) that I will re-attach the lower unit to the transom and pull the motor forward instead of fighting the two moving parts.

My question for you all is this, do I have to remove the upper gear housing in order to pull the drive shaft for this to work and 2) once all bonds between the engine and lower unit are separated what is the best method to separate the two parts?

Here is a pic of how she sits at the moment
 

duhmey

Seaman
Joined
Sep 18, 2011
Messages
69
Efficiency yields more eyes. I appreciate the support, Thanks Maclin
 

dennis461

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 11, 2011
Messages
516
From the looks of the pics, you somehow got started wrong in my opinion.
If the goal is to fix the boat floor, the engine should come out, leaving outdrive attached to transom.
If what you called bulkhead repairs is actually transom repair, then I would take everything out/off.

Why leave anything in the way if repairing a lot of the boat.

The engine most likely has no motor mounts and is now hanging by the 'driveshaft', binding up and will not slide off.
You need a crane to take the weight of the engine.
Remove the transmission (top part of outdrive.)
Remove bolts holding motor to sternplate (you may be able to see them better with transmission off)
If you look straight in from outside the stern, you should see 6 bolts with bent over tabs keeping them from vibrating loose.
 

GA_Boater

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
May 24, 2011
Messages
49,038
Please don't start more than one thread on the same issue. It is confusing as shown by the comments.

You now have one thread in the Volvo-Penta section where it belongs.
 

duhmey

Seaman
Joined
Sep 18, 2011
Messages
69
GA_Boater will do, thanks

Maclin Thank you again for pointing me in the right direction

dennis461 you have confirmed a lot of my suspicions (and allow me to say DOH! :facepalm:); thank you.

To your points: the bulkhead I am referring to the wood just forward of the motor boxing out the bilge area, if I am using that incorrectly or there is more common speak for it please let me know so I can minimize confusion in the future (God knows I do enough of that). Although I do suspect the lower portion of the transom to be rotten as well and hope to get a batter look at it.

I will do as you have suggested and support the motor via crane to align the driveshaft so that it slides out freely after securing the transom shield back into place. When I began disassembling the outdrive I did not realize the motor lacked mounts, it was such a foreign idea to me at the time.

Thank you for your time
 

kenny nunez

Captain
Joined
Jun 20, 2017
Messages
3,114
There is a rubber block at the bottom of the adapter housing that buts against the lower transom shield. You need to remove the upper gear housing before the 6 bolts can be removed. Quite often the front of the input driveshaft is rusted to the out put shaft and the gear housing cannot be removed in the normal manner. You will have to cut the bellows apart to remove it then remove the "C" clips that hold the universal joints together and disassemble the coupling. Then you will be able to pull the engine. If there is rust inside of the adapter housing the bearing is bad and needs to be replaced. If that is the case you better hope that the driveshaft is not rusted into the flywheel coupling, if so you are in very deep doo doo as you will have to take a holesaw and cut a hole in the adapter housing and cut the shaft with a torch to separate the parts. The bearing and universal joints are easily acquired and not expensive. Hopefully you will be able to press the rusted shaft off and save the coupling. The shaft can still be acquired from Volvo as well as every thing you may need. Good luck. Kenny
 

duhmey

Seaman
Joined
Sep 18, 2011
Messages
69
kenny nunez Thank you for helping out.

A few questions for you.

The rubber block you mentioned that is at the bottom of the adapter housing, I had noticed this and was not entirely sure how to address it. Are you saying that the block is attached to the adapter or the shield? I only ask so that I know which direction to guide it.

If I am reading you correctly, step 1 is to remove the upper gear housing by disassembling the u-joint
2) would be to remove the 6 bolts attaching the transom shield to the adapter housing
3) pull the engine (assuming the inside of the adapter housing is not rusted and driveshaft is not stuck to the flywheel coupling)
4) upon finding this to be the case, swear a lot, get a large enough hole saw to allow access for a torch into adapter housing, cut the shaft using a torch and remove the engine

Am I reading you correctly?
 

kenny nunez

Captain
Joined
Jun 20, 2017
Messages
3,114
First remove the large Allen bolt from the upper gear housing. Remove the clamps and see if you can pull the gear housing back and out. If it does then get a hoist to hold the engine and remove the 6 bolts to pull the entire engine out with the adapter housing. If the ring that the 6 bolts removed does not want to slide back there are threaded holes in the ring that 3 of the bolts can screw into to back the ring out. If there is no rust and just grease in the rear of the adapter housing you are in luck and the rest of the stuff I warned you about is not going to be a problem, and just put the engine in storage and repair the hull.
 

duhmey

Seaman
Joined
Sep 18, 2011
Messages
69
Kenny, you are the man.

I assumed the allan bolt had to come out on the top though secretly I was hoping you would say that is not the case as in the past someone has partially stripped it out and she is in there pretty tight but no worries, I will get her out and carry on.

Thanks, bud
 

duhmey

Seaman
Joined
Sep 18, 2011
Messages
69
Success!

7-15-17-9.JPG

I was, however, unable to remove the bolt from the shield behind the gear housing. I even had an impact on it and it would not budge.

P1010336-3.JPG

What I ended up doing was removing the bolts that held said shield to the steering mechanism

P1010367-2.jpg

Since I had previously removed the intermediate and lower housings along with it's mounting collar I had enough room to sneak the steering bracket out. This allowed me enough room to get at the four bolts that held the upper gear housing to the u-joint assembly. I removed these 4 bolts and separated the upper gear housing by also removing the shift mechanism from the front of the upper gear housing (not sure if this was necessary or not but it would not come off before I removed it and came off easily after I removed it so....)

at this point as I prepared to attack the u-joints and take them apart one by one. I ended up pulling on the u-joint coupling assembly and the whole thing literally slid off the shaft and into my lap.

After that it went just as kenny nunez said it would in his July 10th post

7-15-17-35.JPG

7-15-17-34.JPG


7-15-17-37.JPG

A big Thank You to dennis461 and Kenny nunez for your guidance
 

Attachments

  • 7-15-17-36.JPG
    7-15-17-36.JPG
    90.8 KB · Views: 0
  • 7-15-17-36.JPG
    7-15-17-36.JPG
    90.8 KB · Views: 1

kenny nunez

Captain
Joined
Jun 20, 2017
Messages
3,114
Get a large flat punch and try hitting the top of the Allen bolt a few times to shock it. Glad it came apart you lucked out.
 
Top