Re: Need help converting Merc. 20 from tiller to remote
Hopefully someone will jump in and supply you with an installation manual/instructions.
I'm going to attempt to help you but no promises. I just redid my 90 hp with a new control box so the process is fresh in my mind. Only problems in helping you is that your engine may not have access points like mine does.
I got out a '94 sales brochure and looked at the 20 hp engines. They do have one hand tiller operation that allows you do do speed and shifting right there. You may be required to remove the tiller handle to install the bracket that is used to secure the cables.....seems that would be the way they did it. Also, on the starboard (right side of engine facing forward.....side with the green lens in the nav lights) side there are some seams that could indicate the access points for the harness that I address herein. I'm assuming you have a Quicksilver/Merc remote that you are attempting to install:
On installing the bracket, with the cowling off, twist the tiller handle grip and see what moves and then look at your throttle cable and the mount and figure out how you can duplicate that process. Do the same with your shifter. Most engines are ready to accept remotes down to as low as 5 1/2 hp with some manufacturers (OMC for sure as I recall).
I suppose you have a single lever control that may contain a start key for engines with electric start and probably a warning horn for overheating detection. The cable should already be connected to the remote and installing is just a matter of locating the access point in the cowling base and removing any plugs that may be there and install it. Probably that harness routes through the starboard side of the engine lower part of the cowling. There should be a plug somewhere close by which is probably capped and ready to accept the harness.
If not already exposed, the cables attach via the rear of the control. There is a cylindrical plug on each cable to lock the outer shell in place and the center rod which probably has a hole in the end....if of current/semicurrent design.....1999 would be a current design to me as things haven't changed much for quite awhile.
Looking from the back side, lower part of the control inside (may have to remove a cover to get at it or the cover is in the kit and you will install it after you hook up the cables) There will be two screws on movable arms just forward of the sockets where the plugs I mentioned install install. Moving the throttle/shift lever will expose the attachment points and also tell you which one is throttle and which is the shifter....obviously you want to get the right one hooked to the right place back at the engine. As far as which end of the cable to install here, the small diameter stainless steel end attaches here. Back off the retaining nut and in doing so you will see the pin that goes through the end of the cable. Insert the cable, line up the pin with the movable arm and tighten the nut...simple as that. When completing the assembly and installing the back cover, ensure that the plastic cylinders encircling the cables are in the slots in the box and remain there as you install the inside cover. Mine has a backing plate used to ensure that the control is mounted to a flat surface. If you have that also, put it between the control and the boat in a suitable mounting position. Ensure that you install it such that you can have your hand on the throttle/shift arm and can push it all the way forward (horizontal, WOT position) and your hand doesn't hit the dash or anything else.
On the engine there is probably an access point on the port side front of the engine. It very well may be accessible by removing the tiller handle. I see that there are 3 screws there and removing them may allow for removal of the tiller handle and give you the access you want to install the mounting bracket. The cables at the engine have a similar connection with a cylinder that mounts to the engine and locks the outer shell of the cable and the inner connects to a post of some sort to do the throttle and shifter functions. On mine, the center cable uses plastic attachment devices, rather than the hole in the cable end like is used at the control box.....remember to get the right cable on the right control...shift cable on the shifter and so on.
Route the electrical cable where convenient. On the control cables, move the engine from side to side and through all tilt positions and ensure that the cables have room to follow the engine movements without binding or kinking....usually a lot of slack at the engine end....and keep any bends nice and large, no tight bending or kinks; it will ruin your cable if you do.
That's about it. Need more ask.
Mark
