NEED HELP. Bayliner 2355 water around motor (outside engine) in hold winterizing?

[robpack]

Hi guys, just got my 2355 1999 bayliner home from having it winterized. I took out the batteries and trickle charged em. I noticed after I did, water around the engine. Like maybe 2 inches deep, it just rained here a few days ago hard--I'm thinking it came in thru the canopy....How do I get it out? (don't want to try to get rags down there, is there a "plug" they forgot to remove? Any and all help---I figure as a last resort I will slowly suck it out with a sponge? Perhaps leave it there? Put some pink anti freeze in it? Any ideas? figure it cannot be good laying in there?

 

[Scott Danforth]

Your on a trailer, correct? If so, pull the bilge drain plug

 

[GA_Boater]

And raise the bow with the tongue jack.

 

[robpack]

OK thanks SO Much guys....new to this style boat! Where would I find the bilge drain plug? Under the boat I would assume? THanks again!...and yes it is on a trailer...slightly crooked but we did not realize that till out of the water a bit.... it was a VERY windy day and just my wife and I so I was simply happy to get it ON the trailer!!!

 

[wrvond]

The drain plug is located in the center bottom of the transom- directly behind the lower unit of the out drive as you are standing behind the boat looking at it. It is likely a square headed brass plug, so take a crescent wrench with you. Quite frankly you shouldn't have any water intrusion in your boat, water is supposed to stay on the outside. You may need to re treat your cover with water repellant.

 

[robpack]

Hey thanks so MUCH I took out the plug drained about a gallon out of the engine compartment. There was Teflon tape around the plug, which I'm going to leave out in a zip lock zip tied to the steering wheel till next spring. Yeah I was concerned the old owner said I may need a bellows but the boat guy who winterized it said nothing....We DID have a horrible rain here about 10 days ago.... 50 mph winds, and lots of rain...so I'm hoping it is just seepage......... Any problem with me leaving the plug out till spring? figure its better to drain any that gets in than let it stay in there--put a dehumidifier in the cabin today---5 hours and I got maybe 9 oz of water...... its pretty dry in there. We took all the cushions, preservers, everything we could out and put it all in the house.... boat is like brand new inside and out....... so far we think we got a great deal for 14k..... seats do not have a spot on them (no sun fade, always covered with sheets) 70 yr olds who owned it never used it just started it up and cleaned it........ they even took their shoes off everytime they boarded.......perhaps a mechanic in the spring, look at the bellows again to see if its leaking--its 7 yrs since the last one--I have all the paperwork...... oh and may need a new air conditioner--it was freezing up if you turn it down a bit--but it was like only 70 outside......so that could have caused it.....

 

[robpack]

NICE SEA RAY BY THE WAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! what year? Id bet 2008? no yes?

 

[Scott Danforth]

It's preferer to leave the plug out

7 years is past its life

The AC most likely just needs a bit of freon

 

[wrvond]

NICE SEA RAY BY THE WAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! what year? Id bet 2008? no yes?

​Thank you. It's a 1995. Probably not as clean as yours but still very, very clean. I currently have all four port lights removed in order to re-bed them.
​She runs like a top and is a real joy. We have an 18 foot bow rider that we cruised the rivers on but of course we were very range limited by fuel capacity (or lack thereof), no head, no berth, basically no creature comforts at all. Now I can't wait to get out there and cruise! I'm always researching and planning new destinations. I've got a trip to Cincinnati planned for next season for starters.

 

[wrvond]

Hey thanks so MUCH I took out the plug drained about a gallon out of the engine compartment. There was Teflon tape around the plug, which I'm going to leave out in a zip lock zip tied to the steering wheel till next spring. Yeah I was concerned the old owner said I may need a bellows but the boat guy who winterized it said nothing....We DID have a horrible rain here about 10 days ago.... 50 mph winds, and lots of rain...so I'm hoping it is just seepage......... Any problem with me leaving the plug out till spring? figure its better to drain any that gets in than let it stay in there--put a dehumidifier in the cabin today---5 hours and I got maybe 9 oz of water...... its pretty dry in there. We took all the cushions, preservers, everything we could out and put it all in the house.... boat is like brand new inside and out....... so far we think we got a great deal for 14k..... seats do not have a spot on them (no sun fade, always covered with sheets) 70 yr olds who owned it never used it just started it up and cleaned it........ they even took their shoes off everytime they boarded.......perhaps a mechanic in the spring, look at the bellows again to see if its leaking--its 7 yrs since the last one--I have all the paperwork...... oh and may need a new air conditioner--it was freezing up if you turn it down a bit--but it was like only 70 outside......so that could have caused it.....

​You really shouldn't need the Teflon tape on the plug. The likelihood that the guy that winterized your boat even looked at the bellows is pretty remote, unless you specifically requested he check it. It really can't be thoroughly inspected without removing the outdrive though. Your owner's manual recommends the outdrive be removed for inspection and maintenance annually. The bellows is pretty inexpensive, but the labor for pulling the drive and reinstalling it is pretty high. It really pays dividends to learn how to do your own maintenance. Not only do you get stuff done on your own schedule, but you know exactly what condition your boat is in. One big key to boat longevity is taking care of maintenance items before they become repair items. Water in the bilge is a great example of this. Craigslist is full of boats that have rotted transoms, floors and stringers because water intrusion was ignored.
​You absolutely should leave the plug out until you get ready to splash next season. I keep my boat on the trailer and the plug only goes in at the ramp. A dehumidifier is a great idea. Rather than going by time, use one that you can set the humidity level on. Set it for 45% and let it go. It'll dry all those areas you can't see, though since you report no odors, odds of mildew seem pretty low.
​The air conditioner is most likely low on coolant, you'll definitely want to get that serviced before hot weather arrives!
While I'm showing off - here is a photo from one of my recent river trips that has become my latest computer wall paper:

 

[robpack]

Awesome thanks for the great advice...... I cannot wait to "refloat" the bayliner and see if it was "drippage" or whether there is a problem.. I am a basic maintenance guy. I do brakes on my truck, rotors, oil, etc..... When it comes to tearing off a lower unit I have to rely on a mechanic... lol. When we bought the boat in Sept of this year the engine cavity was dry, and it was in the water since april---so I would imagine I have some leaks coming down thru my canopy--but it is in great shape also--but still there are places around the zippers where wind would blow in water---but even then it should be funneled out the back right? Hmmmm........

 

[robpack]

One more stupid newbie question. I'm storing this boat in my yard (as I would have paid 400 to keep it in a fairgrounds barely under a high roof). Anything I need to know beside I have the outdrive up (I scrubbed and waxed it it looks like new, wrapped in plastic with a few holes in the bottom to drain any water. I have taken MOST of the cushions out---I dehumidified the cabin---with our house dehumidifier. I was told by another boater to put a bag of opened charcoal in the hold to absorb odor and moisture? Is that needed? Also this trailer has "surge brakes" is there a way to "lock" my surge brakes just to be sure? Probably not, but like I said I'm new to this.... So much to know....Owned a partikraft 50 hp pontoon boat and bow rider bayliners before SO easy to deal with compared to this big boat.... Do I cover all port holes with duct tape to avoid critters also? how about leaving a fan on all winter inside the cabin? (its gets below zero here in February central pa).... Well thanks again.....

 

[wrvond]

One more stupid newbie question. I'm storing this boat in my yard (as I would have paid 400 to keep it in a fairgrounds barely under a high roof). Anything I need to know beside I have the outdrive up (I scrubbed and waxed it it looks like new, wrapped in plastic with a few holes in the bottom to drain any water. I have taken MOST of the cushions out---I dehumidified the cabin---with our house dehumidifier. I was told by another boater to put a bag of opened charcoal in the hold to absorb odor and moisture? Is that needed? Also this trailer has "surge brakes" is there a way to "lock" my surge brakes just to be sure? Probably not, but like I said I'm new to this.... So much to know....Owned a partikraft 50 hp pontoon boat and bow rider bayliners before SO easy to deal with compared to this big boat.... Do I cover all port holes with duct tape to avoid critters also? how about leaving a fan on all winter inside the cabin? (its gets below zero here in February central pa).... Well thanks again.....

Now that you have the drain plug out, water in the bilge shouldn't be a real problem, and I wouldn't bother with the charcoal thing.
Even if there was a way to lock the master cylinder in the "engaged" position, it's unlikely it would hold brake pressure indefinitely. This is why the parking brakes on cars (which use hydraulic brakes) are cable operated. Go to Harbor Freight and purchase four of those big ol' rubber wheel chocks. Set one on each side in front of the front axle tires, pull the boat forward a bit up on the chocks then set the rear chocks behind the wheels on the rear axle. Let the trailer settle between the two sets of chocks. They'll be nice and tight and that trailer won't go anywhere.
Do not use duct tape anywhere on your boat - that stuff is terrible about leaving sticky residue behind that is real work to remove.
Just keep an eye on your cabin to make sure it stays dry inside. A fan isn't going to do much for you. Did you winterize the boat yourself or pay somebody to do it for you? Are you sure the water supply lines to the sinks and shower are purged? How about the drain lines for the toilet? Water heater? Holding tanks? There is a lot that needs to be winterized beyond just the engine.
Finally, store your outdrive in the down position so water can't collect in the prop, if it freezes it will crack the lower unit.
Please ask any questions you can think of, that's why this forum exists!

 

[robpack]

I was told the camper portion of the boat was completely winterized...I would assume that meant the water heater....I hope..lol....my lower unit is UP right now and the batteries are out of the boat--however I have it completely wrapped in heavy plastic, then I have a heavy thick tarp over that? I DID consider lowering it, even had the wife while she was up in the boat, hit the trailering down motor button---thinking it was like a backhoe and would slowly go down---it did not... lol..... If you think it is necessary I can replace a battery into the hold and put it down? or I can RE WRAP it again to be absolutely sure no water gets in. Thanks again for the information... I'm 50 and it really is a GIANT pain in the ass trying to get those batteries up and out of that engine compartment!!!!!! lol.....

 

[robpack]

Another thing, I have this craft parked on the side of my driveway. It is a bit of a downhill, so I didn't think store bought chocks would work in the muddy winter.... I made my own using 5 foot long 2x12s with treated 2x4s screwed to them.. tires are off ground, and 2x4s are glued and screwed together. I then took heavy cable and ran thru the rims of the tires, then the frame of the trailer and locked them together---just in case someone like UPS, Water deliver truck would bump it---it still can only roll about a foot before each cable binds to the frame........

 

[wrvond]

Sounds to me like you've got it taken care of as well as can be expected. My driveway is pretty steep too (it's uphill both ways!). The best you can do is take steps to ensure it won't roll away and that it is as level side to side as possible.