Re: need assistance troubleshooting v4 crossflow combustion problem using spark plugs
DWC - good to know. I already rebuild this one once and had it honed true but not oversized, so the rings/pistons were just a tiny bit sloppy when I installed them....slightly reduced compression accordingly.
AlTn - already did the swap of coil wires, coils, pack wires, and power packs each in separate stages. Unfortunately, the problem stayed with the cylinder.
Will - I assumed as much but it was the ONLY part of the entire system that has remained constant while I swapped and tested all the other components. Just finished testing both sides of kill/stop circuit with no luck as you suspected.
NEW INFO - manual says charge coil (stator) should produce about 170V through the brown & brown/yellow wires during operation. However, when testing the charge with my voltmeter exactly as described in the manual, I'm only getting about 75V!! I've tested resistance on all the stators I have (4), and all passed the resistance tests at approximately 550 Ohms per side. Have just finished swapping to my 3rd stator and the charge is staying 75V. I also swapped flywheels to see if for some reason I had magnet issues, but no luck. What on earth could be making all of my stators read so low? My batter charge is pretty good and I'm getting decent RPM on flywheel. Should I run the same test while the engine is running on the right cylinder bank to make sure battery and flywheel RPM arent the reason for the reduced charge?
Also tested resistance on the Power Packs as instructed. Diodes in both packs test good. However, I'm having trouble getting ANY charge readout in the wires connecting the packs to the coils even when performing the test per instructions. Could the weak stator charge be the culprit? I just can't understand why only #4 cylinder would be affected by a weak charge from the stator. Would think stator issues should affect all cylinders unless the problem is specific to one of the brown wires.
DWC - good to know. I already rebuild this one once and had it honed true but not oversized, so the rings/pistons were just a tiny bit sloppy when I installed them....slightly reduced compression accordingly.
AlTn - already did the swap of coil wires, coils, pack wires, and power packs each in separate stages. Unfortunately, the problem stayed with the cylinder.
Will - I assumed as much but it was the ONLY part of the entire system that has remained constant while I swapped and tested all the other components. Just finished testing both sides of kill/stop circuit with no luck as you suspected.
NEW INFO - manual says charge coil (stator) should produce about 170V through the brown & brown/yellow wires during operation. However, when testing the charge with my voltmeter exactly as described in the manual, I'm only getting about 75V!! I've tested resistance on all the stators I have (4), and all passed the resistance tests at approximately 550 Ohms per side. Have just finished swapping to my 3rd stator and the charge is staying 75V. I also swapped flywheels to see if for some reason I had magnet issues, but no luck. What on earth could be making all of my stators read so low? My batter charge is pretty good and I'm getting decent RPM on flywheel. Should I run the same test while the engine is running on the right cylinder bank to make sure battery and flywheel RPM arent the reason for the reduced charge?
Also tested resistance on the Power Packs as instructed. Diodes in both packs test good. However, I'm having trouble getting ANY charge readout in the wires connecting the packs to the coils even when performing the test per instructions. Could the weak stator charge be the culprit? I just can't understand why only #4 cylinder would be affected by a weak charge from the stator. Would think stator issues should affect all cylinders unless the problem is specific to one of the brown wires.
