Need advanced help from a mercury veteran - engine/lower/prop.

[Fun Times]

P.S. After re-reading this and giving it some thought, some of these may need remeasured for better accuracy. Let me know if you need that and I will work out a better way.

Nope, no need for all that extra work as like mentioned by iboats extremely knowledgeable team members helping you out, the setup looks good...I just didn't want you to be fighting a severe engine to transom height issue only because of the beginning stages of not really knowing what the exact engine model you had due to the mixture of serial numbers along with a different designed lower gear case housing. Having the jack plate sure makes it nice should you have had to do some readjusting though.:thumb:

Next time its raining and you're waiting for it to pass by, on top of the manual Dukedog was nice enough to send you, have a look around inside CDI electronics troubleshooting section as they offer some pretty good tips of how to check out the ignition systems too.:usa2:

http://www.cdielectronics.com/

Hope you get it all figured out, keep us updated and good luck.:usa:

 

[Puresyn]

An update video about where I am with it. I figured this would be better than a drawn out post. Sorry about the quite audio, I do not do videos very often.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LFm1RGZzHV4

 

[Dukedog]

i understand now roscoe!

jan.. something you need ta keep in mind about parts.. anything directly for tha power head itself you will need ta use tha OG number.... not really a big deal since tha "part number" will most likely be tha only difference if any at all.....

 

[Puresyn]

Some updated information:

Engine: 1997 200HP EFI Mercury Offshore
Problem: does not exceed 1600-1700 RPM when under load (in the water) but "seems" okay not under load. Have been told by the fantastic people here that the engine does not sound healthy (see previous posts for video)

Helpful tips: ECU PN 824003A 8; Power Head SN 0G518498; my mutlimeter/fluke is not an expensive one (Etek 10709) so some small test deviations are anticipated.

Test: Compression and Spark
Conditions: Engine cranking, engine cold, closed throttle, basic spark test (No coil DVA test at this stage) gap tested 0.040

Notes: I am more looking for anomalies at this point to hint at the problem rather than exact numbers. Weather did not permit me to pre-warm the engine (So much rain...)
Cyl. 1) 119psi blue spark
Cyl. 3) 119psi blue spark
Cyl. 5) 119psi blue spark
Cyl. 2) 119psi blue spark
Cyl. 4) 120psi blue spark
Cyl. 6) 116psi blue spark

Test: Fuel Injector Harness
Conditions: Ignition off, tested at four prong harness connector

Specification: 1.1 +- .2

Red to White (injectors 1 & 2) 1.4
Red to Dark Blue (injectors 3 & 4) 1.4
Red to Yellow (injectors 5 & 6) 1.4

Test: Fuel Pump Voltage
Conditions: varies

Notes: all tests done at wires connecting directly to the fuel pump.

Ignition off test:
Specification 12v to 13v
Actual 12.56v (positive and negative terminals)

Ignition off to on test:
--Over aprox. 30 seconds (while the pump is running until it shuts off automatically)
Specification:
1987 to 1995 is 2v or less on negative terminal until pump is off then returning to normal voltage.
1996 and newer is 1.5v or less on negative terminal until pump is off then returning to normal voltage.
Actual Reading: 2.05v on negative terminal until pump shut off then returned to normal voltage

--------------------

So, I am a little puzzled to say the least. I am a bit curious about the fuel pump voltage test as its current range is for pre 1997 but the most of the digging I do (other than the fact that the engine is a 1997) leans towards the ECU being a 1998 model.

I am looking for any feedback on my testing thus far. Still a lot of tests to go!

Thanks guys/gals!

 

[Dukedog]

jus a little "food for thought" on tha ecu's... we have probably tested, ran every combination of 824003 A1 to A30 ecu's on different horse powers from 150 ta 225 ProMax's.. its a crap shoot with most.. some of tha 150's ona 200 ran way better than tha 200 ecu and so on.. there was absolutely no way of tellin' which one was gonna preform tha best on any given horse power except with tha 225 ProMax ecu's.. they were tha most consistent on most all horse power motors we tried 'em on... jus seemed like regular production ecu's were lacking with QC in their build......... jmo

 

[Puresyn]

Additional Testing:

Stator:
Blue to Red - @20k is 3.68
Blue/wht to red/wht - @20k is 3.68
Red/wht to black - @200 is 110.5
Red to black - @200 is 109.6

Trigger:
brown (with-out yellow sleeve) and white (with yellow sleeve) - 2k is 1.241
white (with-out yellow sleeve) and violet (with yellow sleeve) - 2k is 1.251
violet (with-out yellow sleeve) and brown (with yellow sleeve) - 2k is 1.249

---------------

All within specifications.

 

[Dukedog]

how did you come up with those multipliers???... is that in ohms???...

 

[Puresyn]

how did you come up with those multipliers???... is that in ohms???...

Yes, and the @ is the multimeter setting.

 

[Puresyn]

Some more diagnostic testing updates.

Timing:
@Cranking speed with stabilizer box disconnected, detonation box connected, timing advance arm against block stop (Throttle disconnected)
Desired: 22*
Actual: 24*

Fuel pressure - test port:
While primer pump is running: 36psi
After pump stops, creeps down to approx. 22psi

Fuel pressure - pulse pump:
Not yet tested. Will try priming pump ball while boat is in water and experiencing difficulty.

 

[Dukedog]

jus another suggestion... get a dva adapter and do tha runnin' stator test in tha manual.. sometimes a bad stator will not show up with just tha resistance readings!

 

[Puresyn]

Last update for a while.

After all the testing I have done and fantastic guidance I have received here, I still have not found anything that hints at the issue; everything seems within specifications. Although the diagnostics was not exhaustive, it is about as far as I have the equipment and knowledge to comfortably do. The boat is now at a different local shop sitting in a summertime queue to be looked at by professionals.

I want to thank everyone here again for all they have done, I would not have gotten nearly as far as I did without your help! Thank you!

I will let you guys know what the results are.

 

[Puresyn]

Quick update:
Shop called, they say the trigger is "cracked". I did not previously remove the flywheel myself for a thurogh inspection of the stator & trigger due to lack of equipment. Given that the resistance testing on the trigger was within specifications previously, I am left to assume it is only a casing crack. I instructed them to save the old part so I can see for myself; time will tell!