My Troubleshooting Results: 50 HP no start.

[cptmarvel]

Ok, Background: J50TLEDS, 96 MODEL. Ran fine on the water for about an hour and a half of just scootin across the water, changing speeds, ideling etc. Just bought it and checking it out. Got to the ramp to load and it didn't want to idle real well, had to keep restarting. Fastforward...Sitting in driveway I put the muffs on it to check what the battery was being charged at, just curious. Cranks, no start. O Kay! Pull off the cover, fuel primer solenoid leaking gas. Ordered a repair kit. No longer leaking. Still no start. Compression check runs 140 (approx) on both cyl. No spark at plugs. Got a spark checker from auto zone. No spark either cylinder. So I got out my hammer and did some troubleshooting. Results

 

[jakedaawg]

You have the cdi guide, continue on. You will need a peak reading voltmeter or a dva attachment for your multimeter. I teccomend an analog peak reading meter if you are going to do your own stuff and own 2 strokes for many years

 

[jakedaawg]

You should have a kill switch or lanyard. Post.a.pic of your key switch and controls

 

[cptmarvel]

No Title

You should have a kill switch or lanyard. Post.a.pic of your key switch and controls

 

[cptmarvel]

You have the cdi guide, continue on. You will need a peak reading voltmeter or a dva attachment for your multimeter. I teccomend an analog peak reading meter if you are going to do your own stuff and own 2 strokes for many years

Wouldn't the first 2 tests in step 6 of the CDI be a good indicator of a bad pack?

 

[jakedaawg]

on that side mount remote control you will either have a toggle switch with a shroud over it that the lanyard attaches to via a clip, or there will be a groove in the key switch outer round cylinder part that accepts a horseshoe looking clip that holds the inner cylinder part down.

 

[tblshur]

do spark plugs look good:joyous:

 

[jakedaawg]

as far as the cdi results go in step 5, Did you use a DVA or a DMM, two different tools. A DVA is a Peak Reading Voltmeter. It is a specialty meter that is not widely available or commonly owned. A DMM is a Digital Multi Meter and will not give you the correct answers.
Help Me explain this please Fed racerone emdsapmgr boobie

 

[jakedaawg]

The @ 's are to try and get some guys that are much better explaining this than I. Help will come. Results from step six don't count if step five is not done properly.

 

[cptmarvel]

No Title

on that side mount remote control you will either have a toggle switch with a shroud over it that the lanyard attaches to via a clip, or there will be a groove in the key switch outer round cylinder part that accepts a horseshoe looking clip that holds the inner cylinder part down.

Nope. 1. It ran fine till I put it back to the ramp.
2. The black/yellow wire was taken out of the loop. (See photo)
3. I took the side mount remote control off, disassembled it and pulled the key switch out.
4. At the stator plate connector, blk/yel wire shows shorted to ground with key off, open with key on.

 

[cptmarvel]

as far as the cdi results go in step 5, Did you use a DVA or a DMM, two different tools. A DVA is a Peak Reading Voltmeter. It is a specialty meter that is not widely available or commonly owned. A DMM is a Digital Multi Meter and will not give you the correct answers.
Help Me explain this please Fed racerone emdsapmgr boobie

I thought I specified that, maybe not. Only did resistance checks as I don't have a dva. All measurements done with a sunpro dmm, set to 200 ohms.

 

[jakedaawg]

i guess what I mean is it would be nice to have the DVA results. I, personally, am not familiar with the CDI TS guide as I have all the factory manuals. With that said, resistance checks are probably suitable even without the DVA results. You do Fail the Power pack tests and that does point to a bad pack but with out the DVA results a stator cannot be ruled completely out.

That remote does have some type of kill switch, they all do. Some work so that if the lanyard is installed and then pulled while the engine is running the motor dies. It can then be restarted without the lanyard attached so as to enable a passenger to restart the vessel and retrieve the ejected operator. This doen't really matter though as you ohmed the circuit suitably and ruled this out.

 

[cptmarvel]

"That remote does have some type of kill switch, they all do"

I sure can't find it. It does have graphics on the housing showing its operation. I WILL put one in tho. I'm a safety oriented type of guy

 

[Faztbullet]

That year model the kill lanyard clips on front of switch, this is a mechanical kill. When lanyard is pulled it turns key off as spring loaded internally.That is why it will run without it.

 

[cptmarvel]

I'm pretty certain the pack is bad. Probable the stator is bad. Think I should order the pack and see. Will a bad stator make a new pack fail?

 

[cptmarvel]

Well, hell. Thanks jakedaawg and all who did respond. But for lack of better options I've ordered a Sierra pack and a used "but good" stator. All told under $200. If anyone is interested, I'll update the thread wit the end result.

 

[cptmarvel]

Oh! I also but this info on the bbc board, and only response that I got was "gee, guess you better take to a shop"! Crap! I've had lil gas powered generators in the army that would run 24 hours a stretch, just changing out 5 gal gas cans every 4 hours. Things were left over from 'Nam. Why is a glorified lawnmower motor so hard?

 

[cptmarvel]

Changed pack. Fired right up

 

[darrylsiemer]

I'm assuming that your motor has some sort of VRO. In my motor at least (1993 35 hp jet model - 50 hp powerhead) if anything happens to interfere with its external oil tank's (its pump's) circuitry, the ignition circuit shuts off. To check, disconnect the two wires going from the port side of the motor to that tank's pump & reconnect them directly to each other. If you now get spark that's the source of your problem.