My First Project - 1969 Terry Bass boat

Holymann · Sep 28, 2006

This is my first boat and my first project, seeking all the wisdom I can get.

A little history, bought the boat for $50.
Floor was partially removed by prior owner.
Transom core is rotten, and gelcoat is mostly shot.

1. My plan of action after reading many of your post.
2. Remove the rubrail - drilling out rivets.
3. Use an angle grinder/cutter to separate upper .from lower hull. This includes cutting the benches free from their support.
4. Remove the remainder of the floor and floatation foam. Boat seems to have fiberglass "runners." no cross support found.
5. Rebuild transon by cutting out interior wall; removing the rotten wood core.
6. Repair outer transom wall.
7. Rebuild interior wall and splash well. Will use seacast to form new transom.
8. Repair and prep lower and upper hulls (interior and exerior).
9. Raise the floor 2-3 inches using 2'x2' with 1/2" plywood "stringers." wrapping & adhering all the wood components with fiberglass and SS screws.
10. Pour floation foam and cover with glass-wrapped new decking. 5/8 Marine plywood or equivalent.
11. Refinish or carpet interior hull sides.
12. Re-attach upper and lower hull by rubrail and backing support.
13. Paint or gelcoat entire boat.
*** Will test hull prior to adding floor by filling with water to find any leaks.***

I know that I have NOT stated every step, but I want to know if I am on the right track.
If anyone has a "checklist", I would be honored to get and use it.

Tell me what you think.

Holymann

Holymann · Sep 28, 2006

Re: My First Project - 1969 Terry Bass boat

Will post pictures as soon as I figure out how.

Holymann

Holymann · Sep 28, 2006

Re: My First Project - 1969 Terry Bass boat

Here are some pictures.

remember it only costed $50 and trailer rental/gas ($40) to get it home.

Holymann

Holymann · Sep 28, 2006

Re: My First Project - 1969 Terry Bass boat

Trying again

Holymann · Sep 28, 2006

Re: My First Project - 1969 Terry Bass boat

Trying again

--------

Didn't work.

Holymann · Sep 28, 2006

tashasdaddy · Sep 29, 2006

Re: My First Project - 1969 Terry Bass boat

you're on the right track. what's the length on that? don't believe i've seen a Terry that small.

Bob_VT · Sep 29, 2006

Re: My First Project - 1969 Terry Bass boat

Nice project. Looks like a blank with lot's of potential! It appears that you have a plan.

I know that seacast will work however, plywood could be cheaper (cost wise) and just as effective. Since you are seperating the hull it will make the plywood easier for a transom. (search this forum)

Consider epoxy for your bonding (search tis forum) and you will see the discussions.

Do you have an engine? Since you are going to rebuild the transom you could rebuild it for just about any lenght shaft. If you find a deal on a Long shaft you can re-build for that .... same with a short shaft.

Why the 2" lift on the floor? Just curious..... lifting the floor could change stability.

Just a tip: In the future pictures use the image button (it is the small square yellow one with the little mountain in it) and your photos will appear in the post and not as links (same procedure as your links - just a differant button)

Any help you need you will find it here! Great Fall/Winter project.

i386 · Sep 29, 2006

Re: My First Project - 1969 Terry Bass boat

Nice one. Structure is very similar to the one I'm working on. Take your time getting the "top half" off. And when you do, be very careful with the sides of the "bottom half". Mine are very thin .

Holymann · Sep 29, 2006

Re: My First Project - 1969 Terry Bass boat

Tashasdaddy:
The boat is 14ft.

BOB_VT
I was thinking seacast to make a transom that will not need to be replaced due to rot. My second option was plywood.

Not sure how the elevated floor will effect stability, is there some site or calculator I can use to figure it out. My thoughts were the floor width would not change, it may ride a little higher due to the increased floatation foam, but that was it.

My primary reason for it is because of another similiar tri-hull boat (~same size) and it had an elevated floor and a 4-6" raised deck in the bow. Looked real clean, so I was trying to do a slightly modified version of it. Will post a picture of it when I get home. (Will try the new posting method. )

I have an antique 50hp outboard I am looking at. Owner is an AOMC member who rebuilt it and is moving to another project. It is a long shaft, so I was going to leave the transom at its 19-20 inches.

i386:
Your post was one of the main reasons I am attempting this. Looking forward to more pictures with comments.

Questions for all:

1. Would building a raised deck in the bow (~1ft) effect the boat ride??
2. How do I design the right size splashwell?
3. What is a bilge area??
4. Would the mounting of an adjustable transom guide be wiser? ? ? It would allow me to use a shortshaft OB, if need be.

Thanks for the comments

Holymann

Bob_VT · Sep 29, 2006

Re: My First Project - 1969 Terry Bass boat

If you make the transom high enough with plywood or seacast to accomodate the long shaft then you could always cut it down at a later time for a short shaft. I think the plywood will last just as long if installed properly with epoxy.

If you use an adjustable transom (a jack plate type) set up I believe it will cost more that just making a higher transom.

The building of the deck higher to make room for more foam and a clean look is a good idea. Start a seperate topic and title it Hailing Jason and ask him. He converted his tri-hull to a bass boat (look for his posts and in his signature look at his Shanky Beast Project)

Splashwell should be about 12" at a minimum.

The bilge is the area below deck and ALL your channels should drain to a central bilge that would lead out to the drain plug area. Later you can install a bilge pump with a float switch in there too. Leave yourself adaquate access below your splashwell so you can see in there (ie. 8 x 8 you get the idea).

i386 · Sep 29, 2006

Re: My First Project - 1969 Terry Bass boat

Holymann I'd like to convert mine to a stand-up center console with casting decks fore and aft. I to am wondering if it'll make it unstable. Since I've never had the boat in the water I don't know how stable it was to begin with. I don't want it listing a lot while I'm fishing. I just like being up a little higher for fishing. Seems like I can cast and fish better.

I definately can't just build the decks and hope it works out. Gotta be some math or something to start with.

---

I've done about all I can do to the hull at the point. The temperature is beginning to drop so I don't know if I'll be able to do any fiberglass work until spring. I'm working on getting the engine running properly now. I'll probably restore the trailer this winter. There's so much to do I think I can stay plenty busy even without working with the fiberglass yet.

Holymann · Sep 29, 2006

Re: My First Project - 1969 Terry Bass boat

Bob_VT,

If I understand correctly, :/ I should build the splashwell wall ~12" into the stern's interior. And find a way to combine the tri-hull channel to a rear bilge area underneath the splash area.?.? :0

Do I build up the floor in the splashwell and put some type of "sealing" hatch in it?

Is there some site or link I can use to see what it should look like?

I will make the thread hailing Jason and seek his advise as well.

Here another copy of the picture i promised.

Thanks,

Holymann

tashasdaddy · Sep 30, 2006

Re: My First Project - 1969 Terry Bass boat

here's an idea. if you hull are capable of floating, launch them, use some milk crates for a temp platform. see how it feels. terry's are narrow, i don't think you going to want more than a 6" platform, and they become trip hazards. also Ezy Glide stick steering and remote control to the forward seat. the wireless minnkota or motorguide trolling motor. just get a W45 motor guide best thing since sex. gets rid of all the cable.

JasonJ · Sep 30, 2006

Re: My First Project - 1969 Terry Bass boat

What is the length and width of the boat? The smaller it is, the less you want to raise the floor, although the tri-hull-iness will add stability. I noticed you had 5/8ths listed as floor thickness. You don't need to go that thick, just use 1/2 inch, especially since you are using foam. The foam will add structure. Going thick on the floor only adds weight, and you want to build as light as possible. You should probably use ply for the transom. Seacast is expensive, and pointless unless you are eliminating all wood from the boat. If you glass everything in very well, and take care not to leave the boat in the rain or snow to fill up with water, it will last you longer than you need it too.

Holymann · Sep 30, 2006

Re: My First Project - 1969 Terry Bass boat

The prior ower was cutting out the floor and cut two 4 - 6" slits in the bottom hull. The hull will not float until it is repaired. I plan on completing all the repairs prior to building a bow deck.

In most of the Terry Bass boats have seen, all had a high bow casting deck. Example follows.

I will do a mock up with some blocking attached to plywood, to determine what height will be best.
I will also go with the plywood, you talked me into it. Still debating on the 5/8 and 1/2 inch plywoods. The boat is only 14.5ft by 4.5 ft, I don't see how that will add significant weight. Most of the weight will be around the splashwell and the bow deck.

SOME MORE QUESTIONS:
1. In a tri-hull there are three separate channels that go from bow to stern. How do I build a bilge area for this??
Transom area example>>>>

2. To make a live well, do I have to run waterlines to and from the Stern (transom)??

3. How does one creat a floor template?

4. Is there a post I can refer to about steering systems??

5. What are the advantages of a console controlled over a tiller style outboard??

Thanks again,

Holymann

tashasdaddy · Oct 1, 2006

Re: My First Project - 1969 Terry Bass boat

what i used to do was get refrigerator boxes and make templates. after a couple of boats, i now use a chaulk bow and pull a line down the center of the hull, i measure for the line to the side in 1 foot increments, then lay it out on the plywood. but i've been working with wood for 45 years. your hull is very similar to the Terry my Dad had. only difference is the step in the bow. i came from the factory with a front and rear pedistal seat, we used a cooler with pump for a live well, and it made a 3rd seat. it had the ezy guide stick steering to the front seat, and we put a 25 Johnny (under powered) on it with remote controls. this does away with bulky console that take up valuable space. having the remote and steering allowed the boat to plane must easier with only one person aboard. i highly recommend the splash well, as i have taken water over the stearn several times, when fishing and the rude boater comes by, and i did not have time to turn the boat. Jason J can give you better advice about the bilge area, as i do v hulls not trihulls. 1/2 ply will be fine. those few extra pounds add up real quick.

Holymann · Oct 4, 2006

Re: My First Project - 1969 Terry Bass boat

SOME MORE QUESTIONS:
1. In a tri-hull there are three separate channels that go from bow to stern. How do I build a bilge area for this??
Transom area example>>>>

2. To make a live well, do I have to run waterlines to and from the Stern (transom)??

3. How does one creat a floor template?

4. Is there a post I can refer to about steering systems??

5. What are the advantages of a console controlled over a tiller style outboard??

Thanks again, o

Holymann

i386 · Oct 4, 2006

Re: My First Project - 1969 Terry Bass boat

3. How does one creat a floor template?

I plan on doing it just like I do linoleum. I've got some big 3' x 3' sheets of paper. I'll put those down in there and trim 'em down. It'll take several pieces taped together to make the whole thing. Then I've got some big pieces of cardboard that a washer and dryer came in. I'll transfer the pattern over to that to have something a little stiffer to work with. Finally I'll have something good enough to mark the plywood with. They keep saying close is good enough with fiberglass so I think that applies here.

4. Is there a post I can refer to about steering systems??

I've been researching the same thing because I know I don't want to use the old cable steering anymore. You can look in the iboats mall and other places and you'll see basically 3 types. One is hydraulic, which is way overkill for what we're doing. Then you have rack and pinion which seems to be pretty popular. You need to make sure you have enough room in your console for the rack. And finally there's rotary. It doesn't take up very much space. I was told it has a good feel to it too. My center console can only be about 20" wide so I think rotary is going to be my best bet. As far as connecting the controls to the engine, there are various doodads for each application. I'm sure some veterans will chime in but this is what I've found out so far.

5. What are the advantages of a console controlled over a tiller style outboard??

I'd say comfort mostly. Console controlled is a lot like driving a car. Tiller controlled will have you seated in a position that gets uncomfortable after a while (in my boat anyway). Plus you'll be reaching back to the engine to change gears and use the choke and such.

For fishing, I prefer to stand up while steering the boat. It makes me feel more like the captian

Holymann · Oct 5, 2006

Re: My First Project - 1969 Terry Bass boat

Thanks i386,

I will do some research on rotary steering mechanisms, and make a templat using a scribe and some thin cardboard. Will tell you how it comes out.

Holymann

My First Project - 1969 Terry Bass boat

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