Motor Won't Turn Over

[RickPT]

This motor has about 10 hours of run time on it.

Last time I used it was in saltwater and before storing it, I hooked it up to a hose and ran it for about 15 minutes.

Boat sat for about 2 years before I found the time to use it again. Before taking it to the lake, I dumped as much fuel out of the tank as I could and filled it completely with fresh gasoline. It still had some old gas in it, but only about 1/20th of the tank. I also added what I had left of a little bit of the fuel additive that the motor manual said to use. I hooked the motor up to a water hose and ran it for about 10 minutes. It didn’t sound great, but it ran.

Launched my boat, and it cranked over and roughly ran for about 2 minutes before dying. I cranked it again and it ran for about 10 seconds before dying. Cranked again and it ran for 5 seconds before dying. It eventually stopped cranking completely. Every 10 cranks or so it would try to turn over and go for a couple of seconds before dying.

I cleaned out the fuel filter and emptied the bulb, and was able to pump more fuel into the bulb through the hose, so I know that’s working. I checked the oil levels and it has oil. Visually looking at the motor, it looks brand new. Nothing is damaged.

I would like to learn how to work on this myself, but am stumped on what next steps to take to try to get it running again.

Do y’all have any advice for me?

Mercury Fourstroke 60 hp

 

[RickPT]

Here's what it sounds like when I try to turn it over.

 

[keithb7]

The engine is turning over. The flywheel and crank are turning. Its not seized. “Won’t turn over” generally means the engine is seized. Your engine is not seized. It just wont stay running. I assume this is a fuel injected 4 stroke?

 

[RickPT]

The engine is turning over. The flywheel and crank are turning. Its not seized. “Won’t turn over” generally means the engine is seized. Your engine is not seized. It just wont stay running. I assume this is a fuel injected 4 stroke?

Yes, I believe so.

I tinkered with it yesterday and tried a few things, but with no luck.

I opened the drain plug and drained the housing that holds the fuel pump and float valve. Some sludgy-looking gasoline came out.

After cranking it, it still wouldn’t pull more fuel into the fuel pump, so I opened it up. The float valve was stuck but came loose easily with a little pressure from my finger. After that, it moved freely.

I could see more sludge inside the housing, and it looked like some of the parts were a little rusted. Maybe there’s water in the gasoline?

I closed it back up, cranked it again, and saw fuel moving through the filter bulb and into the housing. I drained it again, and more sludge and gasoline came out. I repeated this process a few times until only clean fuel came out when I drained it.

It still wouldn't turn over, so I pulled all the spark plugs to check for moisture in the cylinders. The plugs were oily, but wiping them on a paper towel didn’t make the towel wet. I left the plugs off for about an hour to let the cylinders dry out, then put the plugs back on. It cranked, but still wouldn't turn over.

At this point, I can tell my (new) battery is losing charge because the cranks are getting weaker, and it only cranks 2-3 times before it stops.

I store my boat two hours away from home, so it’s a bit of a chore to go out and work on it, but I plan to make another trip tomorrow to see what I can figure out.

I’ll start by getting the battery charged. I’m not sure what to try next, but any advice on what I could do would be appreciated!

I’m considering taking it to a boat mechanic, but money’s tight after Christmas, so I’m trying to avoid that if possible.

 

[Texasmark]

I never worked on an injected outboard but sitting for 2 years tells me that you have old fuel remnants in the fuel system and you need to get them out. I recently bought an ATV that sat up for awhile...didn't know how long. PO said he drained the tank but not the carb. Well the carb was caked up with varnish from the fuel evaporating.

I bought a new carb for it and while I was waiting I dumped a can of Sea Foam in about a gallon of gas. I got it running somewhat and did that for several days. Before the new carb arrived, the SF had cleaned out the caked up old fuel and the thing was running great. Just another case of my success with "snake oil" fuel supplements.

I don't know how you would address an injected engine if yours isn't carbureted. I guess I would just open up the fuel lines in as many places as practical and with a hefty mix like I used, using the squeeze bulb, force fuel through the system, Let it sit for a day and do it again and again for several days. Then tighten everything up and if you can get it to sputter, run it on some more of that mix for several days. If you are lucky, it will clean up.

Fuel additives work for engines with gas that sits up for awhile. It works....case in point is that chain saw mfgrs. now add a storage snake oil to their 2 stroke oils where years ago they didn't. They wouldn't go the trouble nor spend the money to do that if it didn't work.

Your battery should crank your engine more than 3 times on a charge. Take your battery to a place like Autozone and have it charged and load checked. If it fails get an new one and then go back to chasing your problem.

 

[Texasmark]

I never worked on an injected outboard but sitting for 2 years tells me that you have old fuel remnants in the fuel system and you need to get them out. I recently bought an ATV that sat up for awhile...didn't know how long. PO said he drained the tank but not the carb. Well the carb was caked up with varnish from the fuel evaporating.

I bought a new carb for it and while I was waiting I dumped a can of Sea Foam in about a gallon of gas. I got it running somewhat and did that for several days. Before the new carb arrived, the SF had cleaned out the caked up old fuel and the thing was running great. Just another case of my success with "snake oil" fuel supplements.

I don't know how you would address an injected engine if yours isn't carbureted. I guess I would just open up the fuel lines in as many places as practical and with a hefty mix like I used, using the squeeze bulb, force fuel through the system, Let it sit for a day and do it again and again for several days. Then tighten everything up and if you can get it to sputter, run it on some more of that mix for several days. If you are lucky, it will clean up.

Fuel additives work for engines with gas that sits up for awhile. It works....case in point is that chain saw mfgrs. now add a storage snake oil to their 2 stroke oils where years ago they didn't. They wouldn't go the trouble nor spend the money to do that if it didn't work.

Your battery should crank your engine more than 3 times on a charge. Take your battery to a place like Autozone and have it charged and load checked. If it fails get an new one and then go back to chasing your problem.

Additionally, the battery needs to spin the crankshaft at about 200 RPM to generate the necessary spark intensity to fire the plugs. So here is another reason why starting with the battery performance is the place to start.