motor turns on its own and takes the steering wheel with it

[bob johnson]

ok so here is a little video....the boat it on the trailer sitting in my yard. it is not quite level..but close....the trim is down and the motor is not running.

I stand on the port side and pull the back of the cover toward me.. then I just LET go.... it "falls" back to where it was.

View My Video

bob

 

[Faztbullet]

Take the big white tie strap off the wiring cover as the covering is acting like a spring ....

 

[oldboat1]

Disconnect the steering link at the motor. Disconnect the shift and throttle cables at the motor, one at a time. See if (and at what point) the engine movement stops. Possible it's some spring action from the wound cables -- if so, unload the springing (stretch them out), then reassemble with less coiling -- if possible.

On the idling: I'm not familiar with the idle speed adjustment on your model (nor the idle speed called for in your manual -- guessing around 650 rpms idling in gear). First step, though, would be to disconnect remote cable at the motor, and run at idle controlling manually. If the rpms are lower (idle speed that you prefer), the remote cable needs to be adjusted accordingly. Match the remote to the motor setting.

 

[GA_Boater]

The white tie wrap is a start, but the wiring harness cover itself is under tension and until it's rerouted in some manner. it will act as a spring.

Try loosening the grommet the wiring cover is attached to and add some slack by pulling some of the harness into the transom.. See if that makes a difference.

 

[bob johnson]

OK< so I JUST put the tie wrap on last night right before I posted the video... there is some weight to the wiring harness cover and it pulls a small tab on the 'boot" that enters the motor cover out of its socket... I put the tie wrap on just to keep the "boot' from popping out .

the motor turns no more freely with or without the tie wrap....I can assure you it is not the tie wrap...that "boot" pops out of my 115 ocean runner as well..it is poorly designed and cant take much weight from the harness rigging.

I thought about the weight of the harness rigging hose and its 'tension" on the situation and I have layed it in various positions and it doesn't seem to have much affect on the motor turning..its like gravity it acting on it some how...

Fazt : my steering bezel doesn't have the tension screw...but I may make up an aluminum spacer that is sandwiched onto where the helm is bolted that does have a set screw...

as for the tie wrap : it is tied to two items that stay in parallel when the motor turns.... the harness boot is supposed to stick straight out of the cover and so does the steering arm.


bob

 

[Fed]

Have you tried disconnecting the control cables Bob?
Normal rigging is with a 270 degree loop then side entry through the splashwell as they are pretty stiff.

 

[bob johnson]

Have you tried disconnecting the control cables Bob?
Normal rigging is with a 270 degree loop then side entry through the splashwell as they are pretty stiff.

you know, I had the steering cable on for a few weeks before I got the controls cables installed, and I think I remember the motor 'falling" then.... I have brand new cables that I bought that are 20 ft, but I left the 19 ft used cables in place so far. I have only taken the boat out twice so far anyway...Ill have to look at the dynamics of the cables and the harness rigging hose.....but at this point, I am thinking they are not the culprit....I would think the control cables would bind up the motor from turning the way it is, and actually force the motor the OTHER way if anything.

bob

 

[toddschubert]

I have a torque steer problem and I think we both need to pay close attention to the steering box in console.
Your problem resides else ware but could be held in check by some tension there. I'm going to start a post about mine to get some ideas. Look for it soon