motor replacement

[stuck in pa]

Hello there,
I'm looking for all the help I can get. I was welcomed with warm weather last week only to find when I fired the boat it oozed milky foam out the carb. I know what this means and so I'm now embarking on the adventure of replacing the motor. I have a 1989 Marathon with a chevy 350 and a volvo 280. 1st question, can I pull the motor without touching the 280? 2nd question, what tips do you have on getting this done, anything to watch out for etc. Your help is very appreciated.

thanks

 

[Don S]

Re: motor replacement

I suggest you do some reading here http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?p=2360521#post2360521 before you do anything

 

[Scott Danforth]

Re: motor replacement

should take about a half hour to pull the drive yourself, once out, takes about an hour to pull the motor. Just pulled my '88 271C and 290DP. however as Don says, read the posts.

 

[billbayliner]

Re: motor replacement

Hello there,
I'm looking for all the help I can get. I was welcomed with warm weather last week only to find when I fired the boat it oozed milky foam out the carb. I know what this means and so I'm now embarking on the adventure of replacing the motor. I have a 1989 Marathon with a chevy 350 and a volvo 280. 1st question, can I pull the motor without touching the 280? 2nd question, what tips do you have on getting this done, anything to watch out for etc. Your help is very appreciated.

thanks

Answer to #1 is yes, if the PDS splines and Borg Warner drive coupler splines aren't corroded or rusted enough to prevent them from coming apart. Just separate the motor from the flywheel cover like you'd separate a car motor from an automatic transmission. Pull the lag bolts from the front engine mounts leaving the mounts attached to the engine, and when all else is disconnected, the motor will be free to come out.

You asked for tips.
I would suggest removing the drive upper unit, and then removing the PDS for bearing and seal replacement.
The flywheel cover can stay installed in the transom shield. If left in place, it does not disrupt the rubber ring cushions or initial alignment.


Remove the rear seal and you will see two C clips that need to be removed.
I don't know of any over the counter snap ring plyers that work very well here. What does work is a long needle nose plyers with the tips tweaked a bit to grab the eyelets of two C clips.
When the clips are out, the PDS can be pushed out the rear.

New bearings for the 2 brg PDS are #6206 and #6007 and will be open bearings.
You can use TCM or Timken 35x62x7mm seals.
Good bearing company should have these.

Fill the grease cavity before you put the seals in and look for grease to ooz through the bearings.
The forward seal should be glued in so grease gun pressure can't push it out later.
The rear seal faces aft sort backwards from how a normal seal installs.

If you remove the flywheel cover, the rubber ring cushions should be replaced. The forward rubber cushion does the water sealing.

 

[stuck in pa]

Re: motor replacement

Thank you everyone for all the help so far. Started the swap today and the motor is out and re-usable parts salvaged. I hate to say it but it took me 3 hours to get it disconnected and free in the engine bay but all is well so far. The block did in fact have 3 visable cracks close to the intake bolts. Motors I can do its outdrive that scares me a bit but I'll do some reading and continue with the help and tips from this great community of boaters. I think I'm going to go ahead and replace the intake and exhaust while I'm at it. There is a lot of corrosion in the intake that I dont know if I'll be able to get out and I dont want to risk damaging the new motor. Bill bayliner,..you mentioned glue, do you suggest any spacific kind/brand. Also, can you refer me to any manules or diagrams for the work you suggested?

 

[Don S]

Re: motor replacement

Also, can you refer me to any manules or diagrams for the work you suggested?

Didn't even look at that link I posted did you? :facepalm:

 

[stuck in pa]

Re: motor replacement

Don,
I sure did look at the link and there was quite a bit of info to digest and I thank you for that. I was so worried getting the motor out I forgot about the other info, sorry about that. It looks like there were some pics but I cant view them for some reason. I'll continue to read what you've posted and let you know if I have any unanswered questions. Really appreciate all the help so far.