Okay, after several weeks of overtime, replacing the transom in the boat, etc I finally got the carb rebuilt over the weekend. Now it will start and run for 5 to 10 seconds, then die. It was taking 7 or 8 pulls to start. In the few seconds it runs the water does come out, so the impeller pump change worked.
Here is what has been replaced so far on my 1957 fd-11k 18hp:
1. New coils
2. New condensers
3. New points gap at .024
4. New plugs gapped at .030 (Champion 4 series)
5. Rebuilt pressure tank
6. All new gas hose on pressure tank and engine
7. Carb rebuilt
8. Impeller replaced
9. All throttle linkages lubed (now get full range on tiller throttle twist)
All ignition parts are Sierra and the carb rebuild kit was Mallory, all ordered from iboats. I did check the high and low speed adjusters for wear and they were good. I put them in per the manual (3/4 turn and 1 1/2 turns out). I used the Seloc manual. The carb is the style that does not have the spring between the float arm and the needle, and the Mallory kit did not include the spring and needle as part of the kit, so it is original style.
The best way I can describe it would be an i/o where the timing is off a few degrees. I have good spark and fuel. The fuel is fresh 93 octane Shell with Penzoil synthetic blend and some fuel stabilizer. Compression is still 105 in each cylinder.
Any suggestions, or should I cut my losses and look for something newer?
Here is what has been replaced so far on my 1957 fd-11k 18hp:
1. New coils
2. New condensers
3. New points gap at .024
4. New plugs gapped at .030 (Champion 4 series)
5. Rebuilt pressure tank
6. All new gas hose on pressure tank and engine
7. Carb rebuilt
8. Impeller replaced
9. All throttle linkages lubed (now get full range on tiller throttle twist)
All ignition parts are Sierra and the carb rebuild kit was Mallory, all ordered from iboats. I did check the high and low speed adjusters for wear and they were good. I put them in per the manual (3/4 turn and 1 1/2 turns out). I used the Seloc manual. The carb is the style that does not have the spring between the float arm and the needle, and the Mallory kit did not include the spring and needle as part of the kit, so it is original style.
The best way I can describe it would be an i/o where the timing is off a few degrees. I have good spark and fuel. The fuel is fresh 93 octane Shell with Penzoil synthetic blend and some fuel stabilizer. Compression is still 105 in each cylinder.
Any suggestions, or should I cut my losses and look for something newer?